View Full Version : crybaby problems
msclford
11-27-2006, 04:54 AM
I took apart my crybaby tonight because I wanted to switch a few things around after modding it a while back. I did the true bypass, gain resistor, vocal resistor, low range cap, and mid boost resistor mods found at this page (http://www.stinkfoot.se/andreas/diy/mods/dunlop.htm), and also removed the buffer circuit last time. This time I wanted to replace the gain resistor with the original value, and switch to a different model of cap for the low range. When I went to test it out tonight, it was dead! Signal passed through when the effect was turned off, but not when on. I tried a good battery, made sure that it was powered, but with no luck. I'm a beginner at electronics - any advice? What should I check first? Help!! :(
msclford
12-01-2006, 01:47 AM
I've tried desoldering and resoldering the parts and even the switch that I put in, with no luck. If I plug the cords into the wrong jacks, it does let some sound through when engaged, but it's kind of a backward volume pedal rather than a wah. I've tried testing for voltage between the ground wire and about every connection on the board. I'm stumped. Any advice how I should go about troubleshooting this? How much would I have to pay someone to figure it out for me if I don't prove to be capable?
jaysg
12-06-2006, 05:13 AM
You could dig in deeper and buy a replacement board at BYOC. Either a) bad component, b) bad solder joint, c) mis-wire.
msclford
12-06-2006, 12:43 PM
Sorry, Andreas from the website emailed me and I never updated this thread on the board. Turns out it was something simple - I had the wrong value in there for the resistor. I put a 390k in instead of 390ohm.
TD_Madden
12-06-2006, 12:43 PM
which model Crybaby and how old? I have a new "standard" model that I bought a couple replacement boards for so I could test mods. Only about $20on eBay for each of the boards. I also bought a replacement board (more $'s) for the "Jimi Hendrix" model, but it turns out the only difference is one cap's value.....
I've also been playing with both a red and a yellow Fasel inductor..so far, the red seems to be the one I prefer (clearer sounding). Sounds GREAT in the hendrix board.
TD_Madden
12-06-2006, 12:44 PM
I also left the buffer inplace.....from what I've read, there's no great advantage to removing it.
msclford
12-06-2006, 06:13 PM
I don't know exactly how old. I bought it off of a friend, the board is green on both sides, if that says anything. How big of a difference does the inductor make on the overall sound of the wah? Is it subtle, or drastic?
BTW, I had to chuckle when I saw that the Hendrix wah costs more. I read that about the only difference being that one cap when I was studying up on mine. I did change that cap, and I like it better with the .022.
TD_Madden
12-07-2006, 01:08 PM
I wanted to have the board around to play-with......but that certainly IS an expensive cap at $17....
The inductor change does seem to make it clearer, but maybe not worth it in a stage situation.
Spence
12-10-2006, 08:27 AM
Actually, the right inductor makes a massive difference and especially in a live situation. The halo inductor found in the Clyde McCoy Wah pedals were really a holy grail. I have made a lot of halo inductors and all my customers agree that their wah pedals become the pedal they have been looking for all along.
spiderman2812
02-04-2007, 03:48 PM
This site may help http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/wah.html I used it to do my mods. I would start 1st by checking the switch with a continuity meter to make sure you have it wired right. hope this helps
msclford
02-04-2007, 08:12 PM
This site may help http://homepage.ntlworld.com/s.castledine/greenfuz/wah.html I used it to do my mods. I would start 1st by checking the switch with a continuity meter to make sure you have it wired right. hope this helps
I actually fixed this quite a while ago. It turned out to be a resistor that I had misread, i.e. 270k instead of 270 ohm. Thanks, though.
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