Music Electronics Forum - Guitar Tech http://music-electronics-forum.com/ en Sat, 18 May 2013 07:40:44 GMT vBulletin 60 http://music-electronics-forum.com/images/misc/rss.png Music Electronics Forum - Guitar Tech http://music-electronics-forum.com/ <![CDATA[What's Inside Merle Travis' Bigsby Solidbody Guitar?]]> http://music-electronics-forum.com/t33125/ Wed, 15 May 2013 22:30:57 GMT Here's a "just wondering" question:

How do you think this guitar was wired?
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I see three knobs and a 3-position switch, all for one bridge position blade pickup.
Any wisdom or conjecture appreciated.
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]]> Guitar Tech rjb http://music-electronics-forum.com/t33125/ grooved frets salvagability http://music-electronics-forum.com/t33063/ Thu, 09 May 2013 03:06:01 GMT 1. how do you make the decision whether to dress grooves or refret? 2. is decision based upon existing height? 3. furthermore, how do you decide... 1. how do you make the decision whether to dress grooves or refret?
2. is decision based upon existing height?
3. furthermore, how do you decide whether to replace only isolated worn frets with intention of circumventing unnecessary milling of the other ungrooved frets?
4. do you make a comparison between the lowest height (severe groove) and the highest (not grooved), say 67% is the decision point? ]]> Guitar Tech hewo http://music-electronics-forum.com/t33063/ Charvel Model 6 Kahler Tremolo to Fixed Bridge http://music-electronics-forum.com/t33017/ Sun, 05 May 2013 18:48:02 GMT I didnt realize Kahler made direct replacements for their tremolos to fixed bridge. I would like to know which model I need. Their website says the... I didnt realize Kahler made direct replacements for their tremolos to fixed bridge. I would like to know which model I need. Their website says the 3300 but all I find for sale is the 7330k. Which one will be a exact mounting match? ]]> Guitar Tech chunkitup http://music-electronics-forum.com/t33017/ wiring question - volume pot with extra resistor? http://music-electronics-forum.com/t33015/ Sun, 05 May 2013 09:41:13 GMT I looked under the hood of my Magnatone Mark III today. It's a single pickup guitar from 1957, and I didn't see what I was expecting. Firstly, there is a 0.05 100V ceramic disc capacitor rather than an axial /PIO type, and secondly there is a 47K resistor between lugs 2 and 3 (or is it 1 and 2, I can never remember) of the volume pot. It looks like this - like Gibson '50s wiring + the resistor:

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It seems that ceramic disc caps were around in the '50s. They would have been relatively expensive, but it's not inconceivable that it's original, but a replacement is more likely if the orig died. I'm more perplexed by the resistor - is it effectively limiting the power of the pickup?

Has anyone seen this arrangement before? The guitar is in very good condition, has been in its case for x years and is all original, with no play-wear or other mods.

I didn't check the pot value (doh!) but the tone pot is 100K, so maybe the vol is the same. Codes are mid 1957.

The soldering looks like it could be original, but maybe the resistor has been added? What do you think?





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]]> Guitar Tech simonm http://music-electronics-forum.com/t33015/ Design flaw in PRS SE wraparound bridge http://music-electronics-forum.com/t32988/ Thu, 02 May 2013 21:03:47 GMT The problem with the PRS SE wraparound bridge is that the slot in the mounting stud is slightly larger than the thickness of the bridge so it leans... The problem with the PRS SE wraparound bridge is that the slot in the mounting stud is slightly larger than the thickness of the bridge so it leans forward several degrees, a problem that might be made worse with time (I did not notice it when I bought my SE Custom in 2007.) For the Gibson style wraparound bridge this would not be a problem since it uses rounded saddles which are fixed. However with the PRS style bridge there are no saddles- there are grooves up to an inch long which hold the strings. With a perfectly flat bridge these grooves slope up however if the bridge is tilted forward the slope for the high E string is not steep enough to prevent the banjo/sitar effect like with an open string if the nut slot is too flat. As a temporary fix I tried filing the back end of the string slot which helped to some extent.



Many people recommended that I get a new wraparound bridge with adjustable saddle but the price starts around $100 and it is hard to tell from the limited specs whether one would work on a PRS SE with metric threads. "Just replace the threaded bushings and the bridge will work." However the diameter and depth of the holes for these bushings vary- the US PRS bushings are thinner and deeper than those on the PRS SE. "Then fill the existing holesd with hardwood dowels and redrill them for the proper diameter." Geez- I really don't want to go to all of that trouble and end up with a bridge that doesn't match the simple beauty of my PRS SE Custom. Besides the stock bridge is well-intonated for the .010 strings that I use.



Solution: TonePros metric locking studs for the PRS SE wraparound bridge. While many of the TonePros products are fairly expensive upgrades that aren't really necessary, these locking studs are a very intelligent solution to a definite problem. I ordered a pair for $31.95 (w/ free shipping) and my PRS SE Custom is happier than it has ever been. The sustain is better but more important to me the slight squishiness when bending strings is gone- something that I hadn't really noticed until it was gone. Just like that voice in my head- Peace and quiet at last! :spin:

Here is the link to these locking studs at Stew-Mac...

STEWMAC.COM : TonePros Locking Studs

...which even has specifications for them including drawings with all of the critical dimensions.



I read that PRS is including the TonePros locking studs on some of their SE models. I had looked at a brand new SE Custom and the bridge was as snug as a bug in a rug.
BTW does anyone have a source for the setscrews? I believe that they are M3 .5 x 8.0mm which was not stocked at the local Ace Hdwr.

Respectfully submitted by

Steve Ahola

P.S. Check eBay- here is one seller that I recommend highly offering them for $31.95 including free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TonePros-Vin...-/370803275481 ]]> Guitar Tech Steve A. http://music-electronics-forum.com/t32988/ Anyone tried this Fret Press? or Is Jaws better? http://music-electronics-forum.com/t32984/ Thu, 02 May 2013 08:37:48 GMT I am thinking about getting one of these. Has anyone used one? I am thinking this one ( in the link), or the StewMac jaws. I have seen some of the... I am thinking about getting one of these. Has anyone used one? I am thinking this one ( in the link), or the StewMac jaws. I have seen some of the homemade ones., But making one myself is not my thing.

Can the original "Jaws" pliers work on the higher frets of a Les Paul?

Luthier Tool Compact Bridge Design Fret Press | eBay

Luthier Tool Compact Bridge Design Fret Press | eBay
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]]> Guitar Tech rosssurf http://music-electronics-forum.com/t32984/ US PRS Tonepros Locking Stud for PRS SE? http://music-electronics-forum.com/t32936/ Sat, 27 Apr 2013 22:30:48 GMT I ordered these on eBay with them listed as *metric *in capital letters and when they arrived today I found out that I had been shipped the US... I ordered these on eBay with them listed as metric in capital letters and when they arrived today I found out that I had been shipped the US locking studs instead (SPRS2_CH)

Question #1 Can I replace the metric threaded inserts on my guitar with the new ones with US threads? I don't see why not...

EDIT the threaded inserts for the US PRS are taller and much narrower than the stock PRS SE ones which are metric (with 8mm x .125 threads)
US inserts 11mm dia x 25mm height
SE inserts 1/2" dia x 3/4" height
[kinda strange that the US inserts are metric while the SE inserts are SAE.]

Question #2 How can I remove the threaded inserts without damaging the guitar? Stew Mac has a knob puller that will do that but I was thinking of something I could put together with parts from the hardware store.

EDIT I did find a link on how to pull out the threaded inserts

http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luth...ud-insert.html

Thanks!

Steve Ahola

P.S. Some of the older model PRS SE guitars with the wraparound bridge have a problem- the studs do not hold the bridge very tightly so the bridge leans forward a bit. Enough that I was getting a slight sitarish buzz from the high E string. I filed the back of the ~1" slot for the E string which did help with the problem to some extent. I looked at a new PRS SE Custom and the bridge was snug as a bug in a rug. I found out later that they have switched to the Tonepros locking studs (MSPRS-1 is the number for the Metric locking studs.) ]]> Guitar Tech Steve A. http://music-electronics-forum.com/t32936/