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This is is a continued thread from the Peavey Forum site:
http://forums.peavey.com/viewtopic.p...st=0&sk=t&sd=a
First Post:
Hey everyone,
New to this forum an I have been in a technical funk lately. I recently bought a non-functional 5150 combo for $200. The biggest reason for this risk was that when I opened up the amp to look at it, everything looked pristine. The previous owner told me that it crapped out in the middle of playing at a medium volume. He changed all the tubes to Groove Tubes with 6l6b's in the power section. I noticed the fuse was blown and there was NO grounding prong on the plug when I acquired it.
The first thing I did when I got home was go through a pack of fuses to see what the amp did whenever I did what. I noticed that when the power switch was turned on, a medium-low frequency hum would come from the speakers, the power LED and channel LED would illuminate, and the fuse would blow after about five seconds of this. I tried to activate the standby switch after a couple of fuses to see if that would respond and the LED did NOT light up. I went to GC at picked some GT6L6-GE's to eliminate the variable of power tube failure, but the same result of hum followed by blown fuse. None of the tubes light up, so I'm not sure if the heaters are functioning, or the transformer barely has the time or power to warm them up before the fuse blows.
To further clarify the situation, I'm talking about the main power fuse as the 1A's and 2A's on the circuit board are good. Upon visual inspection, the circuit board has no singeing or discoloration on any of the components, but the output transformer has some scraping on the sealant on the bottom which MAY be considered blistering, but more like an external temperature result from bad weather and not a massive fluctuation internally as the rest of the tranny doesn't have this.
I've read about filter caps and screen resistors and flyback diodes, but I want some GOOD Intel before I start taking the knobs and circuit board off the chassis.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Last Post:
I just came back from Beamish Electronics in Cleveland and I am very unhappy with their service. More about why I'm pissed later. I initially called to see if they had any output transformers and they said they don't sell anything retail, just in the case they are doing the repair. The guy on the phone asked me why I needed an OT and I told him the results of my troubleshooting. He said an OT was unlikely and that he could get it back to me in five days. I entertained this idea and headed there after work.
The first thing they did was check in the amp and give me a claim ticket. I asked if they wanted to know what was wrong with it and they said the tech will just throw it on the table and fix it. I was suspicious of this since he might end up fixing something that is not essential to its operation. I told the guy at the desk to have the tech call me before he started work on the amp and he said that was not possible. I asked how difficult it is to shoot me a call before commencing what could be a repair well over $100. He said the tech likes to just fix the gear and move on. I told him that I was uncomfortable handing him a "blank check" and a phone call before the repair was complete is more than fair. He said that if I was concerned about spending more than $80 then I should not have them do the service. I congratulated the guy on talking me out of the repair. He doubled back and did what he could to work with me and I considered staying until the issue of power tubes came up. He said it was policy NOT to use customer purchased tubes and that they only use Svetlana 5881 WXT's since they are "the best in the market." I told him I didn't want to pay for a rebiasing (since the 5881's require a different voltage than the spec 6L6GC's Peavey uses) and the tubes I was providing were new and had the same specs as stock tubes. He agreed to use my tubes but when the issue of making the call before work was done arose again, there was no budging. I asked to UNCHECK my gear from the system and to speak to the owner, who happened to be the tech. He claimed they don't do diagnostics and that when you bring in a piece of gear, it comes back fixed. He looked at the amp as it sat on the floor and gave me a quick quote of $60. I told him he didn't even know what was wrong with it and he said he's worked on those a ton of times. I brought up the issue of the phone call and he said, "I have to go" and walked out the door without even answering me. I looked at the staff and said in the most professional manner, "I've never been so bummed about customer service like this before," and left.
Going back to the output transformer; what should my test results be from jack to jack? Primary to secondary common were tested open, but I don't know what I should be looking at. I also could use advice about another repairman in the Cleveland area.
http://forums.peavey.com/viewtopic.p...st=0&sk=t&sd=a
First Post:
Hey everyone,
New to this forum an I have been in a technical funk lately. I recently bought a non-functional 5150 combo for $200. The biggest reason for this risk was that when I opened up the amp to look at it, everything looked pristine. The previous owner told me that it crapped out in the middle of playing at a medium volume. He changed all the tubes to Groove Tubes with 6l6b's in the power section. I noticed the fuse was blown and there was NO grounding prong on the plug when I acquired it.
The first thing I did when I got home was go through a pack of fuses to see what the amp did whenever I did what. I noticed that when the power switch was turned on, a medium-low frequency hum would come from the speakers, the power LED and channel LED would illuminate, and the fuse would blow after about five seconds of this. I tried to activate the standby switch after a couple of fuses to see if that would respond and the LED did NOT light up. I went to GC at picked some GT6L6-GE's to eliminate the variable of power tube failure, but the same result of hum followed by blown fuse. None of the tubes light up, so I'm not sure if the heaters are functioning, or the transformer barely has the time or power to warm them up before the fuse blows.
To further clarify the situation, I'm talking about the main power fuse as the 1A's and 2A's on the circuit board are good. Upon visual inspection, the circuit board has no singeing or discoloration on any of the components, but the output transformer has some scraping on the sealant on the bottom which MAY be considered blistering, but more like an external temperature result from bad weather and not a massive fluctuation internally as the rest of the tranny doesn't have this.
I've read about filter caps and screen resistors and flyback diodes, but I want some GOOD Intel before I start taking the knobs and circuit board off the chassis.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Last Post:
I just came back from Beamish Electronics in Cleveland and I am very unhappy with their service. More about why I'm pissed later. I initially called to see if they had any output transformers and they said they don't sell anything retail, just in the case they are doing the repair. The guy on the phone asked me why I needed an OT and I told him the results of my troubleshooting. He said an OT was unlikely and that he could get it back to me in five days. I entertained this idea and headed there after work.
The first thing they did was check in the amp and give me a claim ticket. I asked if they wanted to know what was wrong with it and they said the tech will just throw it on the table and fix it. I was suspicious of this since he might end up fixing something that is not essential to its operation. I told the guy at the desk to have the tech call me before he started work on the amp and he said that was not possible. I asked how difficult it is to shoot me a call before commencing what could be a repair well over $100. He said the tech likes to just fix the gear and move on. I told him that I was uncomfortable handing him a "blank check" and a phone call before the repair was complete is more than fair. He said that if I was concerned about spending more than $80 then I should not have them do the service. I congratulated the guy on talking me out of the repair. He doubled back and did what he could to work with me and I considered staying until the issue of power tubes came up. He said it was policy NOT to use customer purchased tubes and that they only use Svetlana 5881 WXT's since they are "the best in the market." I told him I didn't want to pay for a rebiasing (since the 5881's require a different voltage than the spec 6L6GC's Peavey uses) and the tubes I was providing were new and had the same specs as stock tubes. He agreed to use my tubes but when the issue of making the call before work was done arose again, there was no budging. I asked to UNCHECK my gear from the system and to speak to the owner, who happened to be the tech. He claimed they don't do diagnostics and that when you bring in a piece of gear, it comes back fixed. He looked at the amp as it sat on the floor and gave me a quick quote of $60. I told him he didn't even know what was wrong with it and he said he's worked on those a ton of times. I brought up the issue of the phone call and he said, "I have to go" and walked out the door without even answering me. I looked at the staff and said in the most professional manner, "I've never been so bummed about customer service like this before," and left.
Going back to the output transformer; what should my test results be from jack to jack? Primary to secondary common were tested open, but I don't know what I should be looking at. I also could use advice about another repairman in the Cleveland area.
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