Fender HR Deluxe problems

[olderndirt]

Hi guys,
I'm new at this and I need some guidance, advice, HELP. I have a U.S. Fender HR Deluxe that cuts out or quits completely on the overdrive/more drive channel. I'm going to show my ignorance by saying there are 3 sets of wires, in plastic "strap" looking things, and when I jiggle the middle set the overdrive/more drive channel will work....for a while. It seems to be getting worse. I'm using my Peavey Delta Blues w/2 10's as back up but I like the Fender best. Any ideas as to what's causing this? Is it something I can fix or do I take it to an amp tech? Appreciate any information you can provide.

[CharlieP]

If you have to ask, you should let a qualified amp tech look at it. Not trying to be funny, just safe!

[olderndirt]

Yeah, you're right. It's just that every tech I talk to doesn't want to work on that model amp. Don't know why.

[CharlieP]

Yeah, you're right. It's just that every tech I talk to doesn't want to work on that model amp. Don't know why.

The circuit board is no fun to work on. I know, did some modding and had to rewire because of the traces lifting. I would suggest visiting Justin Holtens site. Lots of tips and troubleshooting.

[CharlieP]

Justin-Holton Files Found the link!

[stokes]

Yeah,those amps are a major PIA to work on,as are most of the newer Fenders,real crap components and PCB's.I gotta go with Charlies advice and tell you to take it to a tech,if you can find one willing to work on it.Maybe you should see who does warranty work for Fender in your area,even tho it may not be under warranty,at least an authorized warranty guy will work on it.It could be just a loose wire or connection,going by what you say about jiggling the cable,but that could also just be coincidence.

[olderndirt]

I appreciate the advice. Guess I'll scour the area for a tech.

[MWJB]

Does it work fine on the Normal channel?

A very common problem on these amps is R85 & R86 heating up & pulling themselves off the board, they should be changed for for 5W or better 470R resistors (check physical size for best option) & mounted elevated off the board. You need to pull the whole board out (removing nuts @ pots & jacks)...takes about an hour. If you just solder the new resistors to the old parts legs, that won't work as the break is at the back of the board.

However, this affects both channels, not just the drive channel...still, it's the first place I'd look/point a tech to. If you're not familiar with safety protocols for working on tube amps go to a tech, they might be more likely to accept the job if they have a heads up on the fault.

[Enzo]

Wow, you got some really picky amp techs around your parts. Sure the Hot Rod series is not very convenient to solder in, but really. Once you have dropped a board out of one a time or two, you know how to do it. Make a couple disconnections and cut a couple cable ties, pull the knobs and nuts, and the board wedges out from the top. Swing it down and solder away.

Does the problem REALLY only happen in the dirt channel? Or is the amp on the dirt channel most of the time, so naturally that is where it will be when trouble hits?

One of my favorite tips is to look CLOSELY at the solder on the power tube socket pins. ANy little cracks? Resolder than anyway.

Those 15v resistors cause trouble, but it is usually channel switching and stuff, not usually signal path interruption.

But specific to the dirt channel, check the solder on the preamp tube pins as well.

[olderndirt]

It just started on the normal channel. It was only the drive. Thanks for the information.

[Prairie Dawg]

If you have to ask, you should let a qualified amp tech look at it. Not trying to be funny, just safe!

C'mon. It's a guitar amp, not a nuclear reactor. Give the brother credit for having some intelligence.

Dirt, what Enzo said. It's worked for me half a dozen times.

[Ronsonic]

Yeah, you're right. It's just that every tech I talk to doesn't want to work on that model amp. Don't know why.

Somewhere in Oklahoma is a real, professional, grown-up bench tech who works on guitar amps. Find him.

In the meanwhile, or elsewise .... Bad solders are among the congenital birth defects of those amps. As are flaky jacks. As Enzo described, if you undo the knobs and nuts, remove the screws in the big circuit board and the wire connecting to ground near the input jack, clip some cable ties you can push the main board down and then flip it out for access. Resolder everything bigger than a 1/2W resistor and everything big on the edge of the board, jacks, pots and the metal wings on the pots, those are your ground buss. While in there evaluate or replace the input jacks and the FX loop and footswitch jacks. Normally, I would check all this, but just telling you to replace them is easier than telling you how to check them.

I have no idea which bundle of wires you were referring to, but I would certainly resolder everything on that as well.

Reflow the tube PCB every socket pin whether it looks good or not. We can solder faster than we can fuss over a solder joint inspection, so just hit it all.

Lift off, nuke from orbit, it's the only way to be sure.

These amps are plenty reliable once they've been resoldered, the resistors already discussed have been upgraded and the resistors on the PI tube replaced with 1W or better.

I've done dozens of Deluxe/DeVille series amps and there is no excuse for a professional technician to not want to work on them. Worst case, it takes time that gets billed to the customer. Oh darn. Depending on condition and any specific issues it usually costs something between $125 - 200 for me to give one of these the full treatment and I never see them again until it's time for fresh tubes.

[doctor]

Somewhere in Oklahoma is a real, professional, grown-up bench tech who works on guitar amps. Find him.

In the meanwhile, or elsewise .... Bad solders are among the congenital birth defects of those amps. As are flaky jacks. As Enzo described, if you undo the knobs and nuts, remove the screws in the big circuit board and the wire connecting to ground near the input jack, clip some cable ties you can push the main board down and then flip it out for access. Resolder everything bigger than a 1/2W resistor and everything big on the edge of the board, jacks, pots and the metal wings on the pots, those are your ground buss. While in there evaluate or replace the input jacks and the FX loop and footswitch jacks. Normally, I would check all this, but just telling you to replace them is easier than telling you how to check them.

I have no idea which bundle of wires you were referring to, but I would certainly resolder everything on that as well.

Reflow the tube PCB every socket pin whether it looks good or not. We can solder faster than we can fuss over a solder joint inspection, so just hit it all.

Lift off, nuke from orbit, it's the only way to be sure.

These amps are plenty reliable once they've been resoldered, the resistors already discussed have been upgraded and the resistors on the PI tube replaced with 1W or better.

I've done dozens of Deluxe/DeVille series amps and there is no excuse for a professional technician to not want to work on them. Worst case, it takes time that gets billed to the customer. Oh darn. Depending on condition and any specific issues it usually costs something between $125 - 200 for me to give one of these the full treatment and I never see them again until it's time for fresh tubes.

I repaired a Hot Rod Deluxe just few days ago.
Perhaps the following information may be useful.


Status before repair:

Normal channel works without problem.
Hum appears when Drive channel is activated.
Additional hum appears when More Drive channel is activated.

Footswitch operation information is available on Hot Rod Deluxe schematic.
Appropriate checking detected that U3 dual Op Amp is out of order.
Replacing U3 brought strange result: Drive channel problem was fixed, but More Drive channel problem was not.
It turned out that C36 electrolytic capacitor is out of order and its replacing solved the second problem.