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  • strat bobbin stripped

    not sure how it happened but a customer has a strat pickup whos height adusting screw hole on the bottom forbon is stripped. Does this happen often? Does anyone have any tips for this fix? I was thinking of gluing a small piece of hardwood underneath and drilling a new hole for the screw but maybe there's another way?

  • #2
    I have had it happen to vintage Fender pickups. It wasn't real common, but I did have to fix a few (it happened when they tried to raise a pickup higher than it wanted to go). I used cyanoacrylate glue. I applied the first coat until it was wet inside the walls of the hole, then hit with accelerator. Wiped it off and applied one last building coat and let dry. You have to tap the screw like a new pickup bobbin.

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    • #3
      Like Jim said. BTDT, it works.


      (standard disclaimer - I post these things when someone gives exactly the right answer in the first reply after years of seeing people get a spot-on answer and then post "anyone else?")
      My rants, products, services and incoherent babblings on my blog.

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      • #4
        Why not just slip a speed nut over the little wing with the hole in it??? maybe put a dab of silicone on there to be sure it won't rattle.
        "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

        "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

        "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
        You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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        • #5
          You may also find a nylon nut at the hardware store and superglue it to the bottom of the bobbin. It being nylon won't affect the inductance in anyway or get pulled by the magnets during gluing. I have done this fix a number of times.

          It's not a common issue to strip it out. Usually its done by someone over tightening against a long spring or someone using the incorrect screw. BTW, you can also dye any nylon parts with regular clothing dye.
          Roadhouse Pickups

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          • #6
            You could superglue & a new piece of forbon on the bottom with a new hole in the bottom piece
            It's the same idea when a customer wants a tele bridge pickup without the steel plate
            "UP here in the Canada we shoot things we don't understand"

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            • #7
              I deal with vintage instruments. My primary objective is to make things look like they have never been damaged or repaired. I maintain that objective in all I do. The glue holds up as good as a never stripped piece of Forbon.

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              • #8
                Great suggestions everyone - thanks! I think I'll try the CA glue first as I have some high viscocity stuff on hand. I'm not sure if I have the right tap unfortunately. I may have to use a screw - maybe file it down so it tapers. Does anyone know the tap drill size off hand? Now I'm just being lazy

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                • #9
                  yep
                  Form Tap Drill Chart
                  LOOKS LIKE 1/8 FOR THE 6-32
                  "UP here in the Canada we shoot things we don't understand"

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by StarryNight View Post
                    I have some high viscocity stuff on hand.
                    You want the lowest viscosity (thinnest) superglue for this task in my experiences.

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                    • #11
                      If you don't use a lot of super glue, like Me, You may want to pick up a bottle of the Loctite brand.
                      Super Glue Longneck Bottle from Loctite Adhesives
                      I get it at Wally World.
                      I keep a bottle of this on my bench and It is over a Year old.
                      The tip is self cleaning and I've not had it fail me yet.
                      I use it to glue the end magnets on Single Coils, among numerous other chores.
                      Good Luck,
                      Terry
                      "If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
                      Terry

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by frankfalbo View Post
                        You want the lowest viscosity (thinnest) superglue for this task in my experiences.
                        Interesting! I have both thin and thick and I wouldn't think the low viscosity CA would fill a hole this size. I'll report back.

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                        • #13
                          The thin stuff is correct. The thick stuff is for more porous substrates and doesn't dry fully hard if left thick. You have to mash it down or it must wick into small capilaries. You only need to rebuild the walls of the hole enough to recut the threads. It should take multiple applications but not too bad. I've never done it, but, the thin stuff is also used as a wood hardener for spalted and knotty decorative woods. Which I have done. Fancy pen blanks, knife handles and such. When it's done you simply cut, drill, shape the wood as you like and no finish is needed. Just a buff and polish. Virtually indestructable.
                          "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                          "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                          "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
                          You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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                          • #14
                            thin CA worked great! I also had a CA accelerator on hand so everything firmed up nicely. I tapped it with the screw as it cut into the CA just fine. Thanks again amigos!

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