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Anybody recognize the drawing software this was made with ?
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As well as the part values, you can also label the tube types in Jschem. ;-) (Edit: okay so it says 'ECC85 Preamp' (Dur me)).
Try increasing the RK values a bit, or putting more attenuation between V1a and V1b (something like a 470k resistor between the V1a coupling cap and the vol pot's input lug ought to knock it down a bit. You may then need to think about bypassing the 470k with a smallish value cap to get the highs back into it - or you may not)Last edited by tubeswell; 07-11-2012, 07:55 PM.Building a better world (one tube amp at a time)
"I have never had to invoke a formula to fight oscillation in a guitar amp."- Enzo
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For ECC85 my tube manual says 6AQ8 is equivalent. A(v) = 57. Pinout same as 12AX7 except no CT for the heater on pin 9, needs 6V from 4 to 5.
You have to get those 190V points lower, down to about half the B+ (229V). Either raise the 11K or decrease the 750 ohm.
Also, move the 47nF cap on the first stage to the plate (172V) instead of inside between the two plate load resistors.WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !
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Alf,
Can you make all the part values show in a darker font? I have a hard time seeing some of the values (at least on my work monitor)"In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is."
- Yogi Berra
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reduced cathode resistor on V2
Loudthud:
You have to get those 190V points lower, down to about half the B+ (229V). Either raise the 11K or decrease the 750 ohm.
I started bringing down the cathode resistor on V2a and immediately noticed the effect
on the gain , it is now 470 ohm. The values I had in there were the result of trying to calculate them by drawing a loadline and then calculate the correct values.
(I have this book by Merlin Blencowe) but it remains hard for me.
Also, move the 47nF cap on the first stage to the plate (172V) instead of inside between the two plate load resistors.
The cap in between the 2 resistors was done to bring down the voltage to the next stage while keeping the right total load (plate).
or putting more attenuation between V1a and V1b (something like a 470k resistor between the V1a coupling cap and the vol pot's input lug ought to knock it down a bit.
I'll try your suggestion of a adding a small cap ( like a Marshall preamp ?).
What I wanted to try out is if these tubes would be suitable for a preamp as they are mainly used in FM radios as oscillators. And I like NOS tubes much better than current production and these are still available at reasonable prices.
( I bough a few dozen of them some years ago)
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I suggested a 470k between the V1a coupling cap and the input lug of the vol pot as well.
You could also try reducing the V1a coupling cap from 47nF to something way smaller like 1nF or 5nF. THis will knock a lot of bass flab outBuilding a better world (one tube amp at a time)
"I have never had to invoke a formula to fight oscillation in a guitar amp."- Enzo
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Made some changes again; cleans up now with my les paul at vol 2 and gradually gets grainier. I like it quite a lot so far .
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...pF-2012big.jpg
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