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  • Need a cheap high power solder iron.

    I want a big solder iron for solder onto the thick metal chassis. My Weller works good with thinner 16 gauge steel in Fender and KMD. But I notice the chassis of my Marshall is very thick. I don't think my Weller with 800deg wide tip is going to do it. I just want something cheap and dirty for only this purpose. You think this kind of soldering gun will work on thick chassis?

    Powerbuilt 940171 Soldering Gun Kit - 100 Watt - - Amazon.com

    Or you think this kind is still better?

    Hobby 100 Soldering Iron - - Amazon.com

  • #2
    Weller 80 watt "pencil" more like a drumstick, about $30. Also available in 120W and 160W denominations. Amazon and other dealers.

    I've gotten all my chassis connections done with an old clapped-out 80 watt. Beats the heck out of "guns" even 300 watt ones. The pencil's massive tip gets the job done. I bought a spare iron for the day when the old one packs up. It is one tool I don't want to be without.
    This isn't the future I signed up for.

    Comment


    • #3
      Agreed - I also use an 80W Weller "fat boy" tipped iron. Main thing I find is to make sure the surface is shiny&or clean first, and keep the tip tinned. Let it heat up to full temp before using it, bet you'll have no problem. Guns just don't usually have the necessary mass in the tips to heat that amount of metal that fast. Plus I find ttem a bit clumsier to hold.

      Justin
      "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
      "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
      "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks, iron it is. I'll check the 80W ones too.

        Comment


        • #5
          Here's a cheap example of something with more mass at the tip:
          200 Watt Soldering Iron 1/2"Tip with Wood Handle 110V 200W - - Amazon.com

          And the Weller:
          http://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP80NUS...BMYD5JRC38Q6T4
          Originally posted by Enzo
          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks guys, I just bought this one:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

            Comment


            • #7
              Make sure to come back to this thread with a review after you make some chassis connections.
              Originally posted by Enzo
              I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by g-one View Post
                Make sure to come back to this thread with a review after you make some chassis connections.
                I'll do that, but it's going to be a little while. I am not ready to pull all the guts out and build a new amp just yet.

                Comment


                • #9
                  received the iron. Amazon prime is very good, 1 day free shipping!!!

                  Weller SP80NUS Heavy Duty LED Soldering Iron, Red/Black - - Amazon.com

                  Good

                  1) Has LED light pointing at direction for soldering.
                  2) Definitely melt solder on Fender Bassman chassis much faster.
                  3) the head is small enough I can stick it partially into the holder of the Weller station. That's the reason I did not get the bigger iron as the stem is so fat. Finding a place to rest it safely can become a problem.

                  Bad

                  1) Takes a long time to warm up. Nothing like My Weller station.
                  2) The solder does not stick on the Marshall chassis. I think it's more that I have to grind the coating, I think it's anodized. The melted solder keep rolling around.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Is that a steel or aluminum chassis? Sorry to ask a silly question, I just don't work on many Marshalls... I've heard they used both in their history. I nwittingly tried for 2 hours to solder a ground to an aluminum chassis, couldn't do it to save my life. THEN I read about it. Now I just don't bother trying.

                    Yeah, they do take a while to warm up AND cool off. Mine came with a cheap little aluminum stand; I lose it or bend it all the time. I'm sure you could rig something up. Hanging vertically or clipped with the tip up might be nice. And even though it's slow to heat & cool, it's still better than getting pi$$ed off by using your regular iron to solder pot casings and chassis grounds!

                    Justin
                    "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
                    "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
                    "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Weller is law
                      Once you buy and head no more pain
                      It's All Over Now

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Justin Thomas View Post
                        Is that a steel or aluminum chassis? Sorry to ask a silly question, I just don't work on many Marshalls... I've heard they used both in their history. I nwittingly tried for 2 hours to solder a ground to an aluminum chassis, couldn't do it to save my life. THEN I read about it. Now I just don't bother trying.

                        Yeah, they do take a while to warm up AND cool off. Mine came with a cheap little aluminum stand; I lose it or bend it all the time. I'm sure you could rig something up. Hanging vertically or clipped with the tip up might be nice. And even though it's slow to heat & cool, it's still better than getting pi$$ed off by using your regular iron to solder pot casings and chassis grounds!

                        Justin
                        It is steel, it's just anodized. My KMD is like that, I had to use a dremo to remove the top coating. I'll try it later, grandson is here, so it's grandson day.

                        I really like the LED, that's the best feature.
                        Last edited by Alan0354; 09-06-2014, 12:12 AM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I just use bolts, terminal lugs, and star washers, or Keps nuts.
                          No soldering to the chasis on my builds, and my chassis's are aluminum.
                          I clean the surface and use no-ox grease on the metal chassis.
                          T
                          Last edited by big_teee; 09-06-2014, 01:07 AM.
                          "If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
                          Terry

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by big_teee View Post
                            I just use bolts, terminal lugs, and star washers, or Keps nuts.
                            No soldering to the chasis on my builds, and my chassis's are aluminum.
                            I clean the surface and use no-ox grease on the metal chassis.
                            T
                            What is no-ox grease for?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              No Ox is short for no-oxide, or No-Oxidation.
                              I used it in Comm-tech applications.
                              Has many uses.
                              A thin coat on the metal In between terminals and chassis, allows no oxidation.
                              Blocks oxygen and moisture from getting to the metal.
                              I have lots of it, so I use it.
                              T
                              https://www.google.com/search?q=no-o...w=1366&bih=602
                              Last edited by big_teee; 09-06-2014, 02:30 AM.
                              "If Hitler invaded Hell, I would make at least a favourable reference of the Devil in the House of Commons." Winston Churchill
                              Terry

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