the right GLUE to fix broken plastic input jack, pc mount?

[mo_clearly]

Just took apart my SD Pickup Booster guitar pedal, for the first time(!), because part of the plastic input jack broke off. I have the piece that broke off.
Its PC mount, so its some kind of thermoplastic. Def not super glue, what do I use to glue it back, some epoxy? Thanks!!
Or tell me if that's a poor solution and I need to replace the whole jack.

[Jazz P Bass]

Replacing it is the best route.

It really depends on 'why' it broke.
If the 'why' happens again the repaired part will break more readily than a new one.

If you are carefull & have a small solder tip, you can remelt the plastic.
Plastics will melt anywhere from 300F to 550F.
I try to let the iron (using a crappy tip) heat up & then I turn it off & do the remelt on the way down.

[mo_clearly]

Figured. I don't have a soldering pen or anything. I bought it used and Im guessing someone repaired it, it literally broke the first time I used it, well after the 90 day return policy.
thanks for the advice!

Jazz P Bass

Replacing it is the best route.

It really depends on 'why' it broke.
If the 'why' happens again the repaired part will break more readily than a new one.

If you are carefull & have a small solder tip, you can remelt the plastic.
Plastics will melt anywhere from 300F to 550F.
I try to let the iron (using a crappy tip) heat up & then I turn it off & do the remelt on the way down.

[tedmich]

does it look like this?

replacing it will mean getting an exact part, either using the number on the unit or asking SD really nicely. Also you'll need a real solder iron and a solder sucker.
If its just the threaded barrel that broke, it could still function

[52 Bill]

As the others have stated replacement is best, but if you want to try, use the type of model cement that will actually melt the plastic and fuse the broken parts back together.

I keep a bottle of Plastic Weld around to fix the occasional plastic knob or jack.

[J M Fahey]

^^^^^^^ that's the point.

Any kind of "adhesive" which by definition "sticks to the surface" is not strong enough.

But model plane adhesive which contains strong solvents such as acetone and toluene, actually dissolve/melt plastic both sides of the joint, that "creamy" plastic joins and practically mixes one side with the other and when that "cream" dries up (it takes at least a couple days, a week for full strength) is as good as just injected in the die, no discontinuities.