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  • 5F6A filter cap relocating?

    I'm going to be tackling a couple 5F6A's and was wondering if anyone successfully relocated the filter caps inside the chassis?
    I seem to recall some pics of a build where they were stacked 'vertically' with terminal strips.
    I'm only asking because of the extra cost of the doghouse (with shipping & us/can conversion, I'm looking at close to 50$ each)
    My other option is mounting them as usual but with no cover

  • #2
    Are these builds from scratch, or repairs? There's lots of ways to tackle it, just get creative with the spacing. Hoffman puts them alongsode the pots on the inside; others mount them on the eyelet board, near where the circuitry they are filtering. So you have a cap, a fewninches of circuitry, a cap, a few more inches of circuitry, a cap, etc. Check photos of some of the smaller tweeds for inspiration - Champ, Princeton, etc.

    I don't think mounting them in the usual fashion without a cover of any kind is really an option, if you value your customers' lives and your livelihood... I made the mistake once of forgetting to put the cap pan back on, then I swapped a tube. ZAP! It sucks. Lesson learned. NO EXPOSED CAPS!!!

    And modern lyrics are quite a bit smaller than days of yore. Should be able to cram them in.

    Justin
    "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
    "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
    "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

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    • #3
      The Weber layout mounts the caps on a small board inside the chassis. The grounding is poor and the amps likely have a buzzy hum.

      Link: http://www.tedweber.com/media/kits/5f6a_layout.jpg
      WARNING! Musical Instrument amplifiers contain lethal voltages and can retain them even when unplugged. Refer service to qualified personnel.
      REMEMBER: Everybody knows that smokin' ain't allowed in school !

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Justin Thomas View Post
        Are these builds from scratch, or repairs? There's lots of ways to tackle it, just get creative with the spacing. Hoffman puts them alongsode the pots on the inside, others mount them on the eyelet board, near where the circuitry they are filtering. So you have a cap, a fewninches of circuitry, a cap, a few more inches of circuitry, a cap, etc. Check photos of some of the smaller tweeds for inspiration - Champ, Princeton, etc.

        I don't think mounting them in the usual fashion without a cover of any kind is really an option, if you value your customers' lives and your livelihood... I made the mistake once of forgettingntonput the cap pan back on, then I swapped a tube. ZAP! It sucks. Lesson learned. NO EXPOSED CAPS!!!

        Justin
        Thanks Justin...yeah, scratch builds.
        I agree about the no exposed caps.

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        • #5
          Here's a link to the Hoffman page; scroll down a bit to look at the 5F1, 5F2, 5E3, and also the Blues Junior conversion. Of course, you'd have to be making your own boards ot use this stylr layout for a Bassman. I drill my own turret boards, so I can stick whatever I want on it. I'm all about adaptation. My last build needed some supplemental filtering, so I had to cram in two on a mini-board. Ended up at a wrong angle, but grounding is good and it's quiet. If I can find a photo of the caps mounted along the pots on the inside, I'll try & post that too.

          http://el34world.com/schematics.htm#..._5F6A_Bassman_

          Also - 65Amps and Marshall have mounted can caps on the inside with a clamp. Another option if you have room.

          And I always find tracing the wiring on doghouses rather "fun," at best... I like having all the innards on the inside.

          Justin
          "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
          "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
          "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

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          • #6
            For that matter... I'd design my own board to use radial caps. Axial caps good to 450+ volts of decent quality are limited to just a few choices now. I predict that someday, maybe soon, we'll all be retrofitting radials into the older axial designed layouts. Get a jump on the game and build with radials now. It'll make cap replacement easier when you have to service that circuit ten or fifteen years from now.
            "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

            "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

            "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
            You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Chuck H View Post
              For that matter... I'd design my own board to use radial caps. Axial caps good to 450+ volts of decent quality are limited to just a few choices now. I predict that someday, maybe soon, we'll all be retrofitting radials into the older axial designed layouts. Get a jump on the game and build with radials now. It'll make cap replacement easier when you have to service that circuit ten or fifteen years from now.
              That's not a bad idea.
              So instead of say four F&T 22uF's, I could use a JJ 40/20/20/20 radial cap since 2 of the 22uF's are wired in parallel?

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              • #8
                Chuck likes the radials, and that is fine. I like the axials in something like this because they lie flat, no worry on altitude.

                The schematic shows four 20uf and an 8uf. Since the one is doubled, there is absolutely no reason to replace two sections with two caps, just get a 40uf cap and be done with it. 8uf is not a standard value, not in decades, but 10uf is, so I would not spend extra money looking for an 8uf just to be retro.

                Not speaking for Chuck, but I THINK he means using radial individual caps, not the can cap. yes, the can cap has radial leads, but we don't usually refer to it as such. I have nothing against a modern multisection can cap like that, just making the distinction. In fact your 40/20/20/20 would take care of that 8uf if you let 20uf handle the spot. I stuck such a can cap in a Champ-ish amp I built, I had room under the chassis. But you can also mount it top side of the chassis with a clearance hole under it like any other can cap. If you have the space on the chassis.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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