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fender ,93 the twin ,red knob

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  • #16
    Maybe these pictures could be useful:

    http://www.pedrovecino.com/classic/img1339.jpg
    http://www.pedrovecino.com/classic/Img1340.jpg
    http://www.pedrovecino.com/classic/Img1341.jpg
    http://www.pedrovecino.com/classic/Img1345.jpg
    Last edited by Pedro Vecino; 03-12-2015, 10:29 AM. Reason: img to url

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    • #17
      twin

      thanks a million for the pics ,i can now see where its all going wrong ,thats a nice clean amp,wish mine was like that .

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      • #18
        Well good news today thanks to you guys. I have found where the cut wires go soldered them in and I now

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        • #19
          The suspense is killing me.
          now...?????????????????
          Originally posted by Enzo
          I have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."


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          • #20
            Maybe he got electrocuted in mid sentence?
            "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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            • #21
              I have a signal to the temp speaker and a signal from the out put side looking good

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              • #22
                Top tip of the day folks ,when fitting a REVERB tank remember to remove the foam packing from the springs as it dont work too good with it on !! Anyways the good news is the red knob reverb is now working ,yes it took me a bit of time but i did it ,big thinks to all for the advice and coments cheers ,,

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Tom Phillips View Post
                  Attached is a gut shot of a stock 1990 "The Twin" which will be useful for you to see how they were originally wired. The resolution is good enough that you can zoom in to trace some of the wiring.
                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]33184[/ATTACH]

                  My tip is that you be VERY careful if you ever try to get to the far side of any of the PC boards. This is because the flying lead wires are not properly strain relieved and Fender used brittle 7 strand wire. The strands break easily (Birdcaging) when flexed to flip the board over and it doesn't take long before the wires break completely free.

                  Very strange that someone would have moved the reverb send & recover connectors to the rear panel of the chassis.

                  Cheers,
                  Tom
                  Hi Tom,

                  I know this thread is a couple of years old. I thought those fly wires used on the Fender Red Knob Twin that travel from the 12ax7 preamp tubes and 6L6 power tubes to the pcb were 22 gauge core wire 300v rating. I noticed a few of them had part of the plastic shielding melted by PO. I will like to keep it as stock as posible and in the event i dont find the brittle 7 strand wire if the one i have is safe to use.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by jalexquijano View Post
                    Hi Tom,

                    I know this thread is a couple of years old. I thought those fly wires used on the Fender Red Knob Twin that travel from the 12ax7 preamp tubes and 6L6 power tubes to the pcb were 22 gauge core wire 300v rating. I noticed a few of them had part of the plastic shielding melted by PO. I will like to keep it as stock as posible and in the event i dont find the brittle 7 strand wire if the one i have is safe to use.
                    I'm not totally sure what you are thinking about but...When I get one of these amps that have badly damaged flying wires from past service and the customer wants to keep the amp and make sure it is reliable and serviceable, I replace the flying wires with good quality 600V, 22 AWG, 19 strand wire. If the amp is one of the older models that has the PCB with the strain relief holes then I route the new wires through those holes thus correcting Fender's original assembly screw up. My feeling is that there is no logical reason to seek out 7 strand hookup wire to keep the amp "stock." The wire replacement may seem like a lot of work but, when compared to one or more wires braking off every time the PCB needs the back side accessed, it was well worth it to me and my customer to just replace them all.

                    Cheers,
                    Tom

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Tom Phillips View Post
                      I'm not totally sure what you are thinking about but...When I get one of these amps that have badly damaged flying wires from past service and the customer wants to keep the amp and make sure it is reliable and serviceable, I replace the flying wires with good quality 600V, 22 AWG, 19 strand wire. If the amp is one of the older models that has the PCB with the strain relief holes then I route the new wires through those holes thus correcting Fender's original assembly screw up. My feeling is that there is no logical reason to seek out 7 strand hookup wire to keep the amp "stock." The wire replacement may seem like a lot of work but, when compared to one or more wires braking off every time the PCB needs the back side accessed, it was well worth it to me and my customer to just replace them all.

                      Cheers,
                      Tom
                      In conclusión the most closest to stock fly wire from the PCB to tube sockets on the Red Knob Twin is 22AWG 600V rated Stranded wire???

                      https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-22AWG-S.../dp/B007VF7KQO

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by jalexquijano View Post
                        In conclusión the most closest to stock fly wire from the PCB to tube sockets on the Red Knob Twin is 22AWG 600V rated Stranded wire??? https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-22AWG-Stranded-Teflon%C2%AE-Insulated/dp/B007VF7KQO
                        I am dis-trustful of that seller.
                        The seller's bullet points say:
                        • Stranded, Teflon Insulated 600 Volt Hook-Up Wire
                        • Single Conductor Stranded, Silver Plated Copper Wire

                        Reads like conflicting information to me and the price is no great deal.
                        There is no reason to seek out "...closest to stock fly wire..."
                        Please carefully re-read my posts #12, #14 & #24. The main points I made are to utilize the strain relief holes that Fender did not route the wire through AND to upgrade from 7 strand to 19 strand wire. This is for mechanical reasons not tone reasons. But...Fender eliminated those holes in the later versions of the amp. If your amp is one of those later models then you won't be able to take advantage of the existing strain relief holes. There are always other creative options but I have not needed to go there yet. The obvious option is to just be careful when flipping the PCB to work on the under side.
                        #22AWG wire would be fine but not a firm requirement. But, for instance, if I only had #20AWG on hand then I would use it without worry. Again - The wire gauge will not affect the sound.

                        More about wire.
                        If I needed to buy wire I'd go with a main stream source such as Mouser in favor of an amazon seller.
                        If I was looking for some vintage wire, special deal or surplus wire then I'd be browsing at someplace such as Apex Jr.Home Page .

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                        • #27
                          300v or 600v?

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                          • #28
                            600V
                            Juan Manuel Fahey

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                            • #29
                              Going in circles here.
                              Read the information already posted in the discussion.

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                              • #30
                                I only have 22 awg 300volts radio shack brand.

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