Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

digitech whammy iv preset hacking made easy

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by nosaj View Post
    I can only get it to move by pressing both buttons. using 2 spst momentary switches. Holding one down then tapping the other doesn't do anything.
    Thanks,

    nosaj
    i don't think the encoder is anything more than a switch. like i said, tip plus sleeve goes one way, tip and ring plus sleeve goes the other way.
    both switches need to be normally open, so they don't do any switching til you press them. someone had said making the second switch a dpst and wiring the extra half of the switch in parallel with the first switch should work to make it go down, but i can't get it to work like that. on mine, pressing sw 1 will go one direction, holding sw2 while pressing sw1 makes it go the other way, as shown in the video i posted recently. you can confirm if this works as i report quite simply. plug a t/r/s cable into the jack connected to the encoder. short the tip to ground. every time you do, the preset should cycle to the next one. now short the tip to ring, and then short the combination to sleeve and it should go the other way.
    i can only seem to get it to work with momentary normally open switches.

    its for all intents a digitech fs3x pedal. i built one of those, and that works on this hack too, tho the mode button does nothing.

    http://www.musiker-board.de/attachme...3x-png.225042/

    try looking at this schematic. maybe the diodes are important. like i said, this was years ago that i did this. i built the fs3x for a digitech jimi hendrix pedal and it works with that, this is what i used in the video last week. it does have the diodes in it ( in the video) so they may be necessary.

    hollah back if it doesn't sort out.
    peace
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #17
      Um, you also have to remove the encoder for any of this to work right, did you?
      Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Enzo View Post
        Um, you also have to remove the encoder for any of this to work right, did you?
        NO, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE ENCODER!! DO NOT REMOVE IT!! IF YOU DO, THEN THE WHOLE POINT OF THE HACK IS WORTHLESS.
        jesus, dude, no offense, but if you haven't done this, or don't know, don't add to the guy's confusion.

        you do NOT need to remove the encoder. AT ALL. when the plug is disconnected from the jack, the encoder works normally. THE ENCODER WILL EVEN WORK NORMALLY WITH THE HACK PLUGGED IN!

        don't listen to enzo. when i first worked this up, i was talking with the guys from molten voltage, who make/invented various hacks for this pedal.

        removing the encoder is not what you want. you want to AUGMENT the pedal, NOT CHANGE IT.

        what i did adds the equivalent of the "second layer" enzo is trying to describe. it's in parallel with the three connections to the pcb made by the encoder. all the encoder is is a simple rotary switch as far as this is concerned. removing it will make it so you HAVE to rely on an external pedal, DON'T DO IT.

        look at the schematic i posted last nite for the digitech footswitch. you can literally leave out the mode switch, or leave it in, so it will work with other digitech products. the only diff between the fs3x is the diodes and one more switch. seriously.

        IF you try what i said with the trs cord as described previously, and short the tip to sleeve... remember, not GROUND.... SLEEVE. the jack in the whammy itself MUST BE ISOLATED FROM GROUND so you can use all three parts for the hack... tip ring and sleeve.... when you short the TIP of the patch cord to the SLEEVE, it will scroll incrementally thru the presets in one direction one at a time. if you short the TIP AND RING to the SLEEVE, it WILL go the other way. all there is to it.

        no removing encoders involved, the encoder will still work manually even WITH the hack installed. that's the whole idea. you can do it manually or remotely.

        don't take the damn thing apart.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by pinkjimiphoton View Post
          NO, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE ENCODER!! DO NOT REMOVE IT!! IF YOU DO, THEN THE WHOLE POINT OF THE HACK IS WORTHLESS.
          jesus, dude, no offense, but if you haven't done this, or don't know, don't add to the guy's confusion.

          you do NOT need to remove the encoder. AT ALL. when the plug is disconnected from the jack, the encoder works normally. THE ENCODER WILL EVEN WORK NORMALLY WITH THE HACK PLUGGED IN!

          don't listen to enzo. when i first worked this up, i was talking with the guys from molten voltage, who make/invented various hacks for this pedal.

          removing the encoder is not what you want. you want to AUGMENT the pedal, NOT CHANGE IT.

          what i did adds the equivalent of the "second layer" enzo is trying to describe. it's in parallel with the three connections to the pcb made by the encoder. all the encoder is is a simple rotary switch as far as this is concerned. removing it will make it so you HAVE to rely on an external pedal, DON'T DO IT.

          look at the schematic i posted last nite for the digitech footswitch. you can literally leave out the mode switch, or leave it in, so it will work with other digitech products. the only diff between the fs3x is the diodes and one more switch. seriously.

          IF you try what i said with the trs cord as described previously, and short the tip to sleeve... remember, not GROUND.... SLEEVE. the jack in the whammy itself MUST BE ISOLATED FROM GROUND so you can use all three parts for the hack... tip ring and sleeve.... when you short the TIP of the patch cord to the SLEEVE, it will scroll incrementally thru the presets in one direction one at a time. if you short the TIP AND RING to the SLEEVE, it WILL go the other way. all there is to it.

          no removing encoders involved, the encoder will still work manually even WITH the hack installed. that's the whole idea. you can do it manually or remotely.

          don't take the damn thing apart.

          like i said.... beware of f-bombs and assorted choice words. note in the video sometimes i refer to the sleeve when i mean the ring.

          tip to sleeve = presets cycle in one direction

          tip + ring to sleeve = presets cycle in other direction.
          it appears the ground for the midi in jack must be connected to the chassis for this to work. watch the video.

          the hack DOES work. here's some proof, in the first actual Stupid Pedal Tricks video in god knows how long.



          attached are some crummy phone pics of the pedal and the hackClick image for larger version

Name:	Pic-04072016-001.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	823.5 KB
ID:	841581Click image for larger version

Name:	Pic-04072016-002.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	576.6 KB
ID:	841582Click image for larger version

Name:	Pic-04072016-004.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	772.1 KB
ID:	841583Click image for larger version

Name:	Pic-04072016-005.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	663.5 KB
ID:	841584Click image for larger version

Name:	Pic-04072016-006.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	746.3 KB
ID:	841585Click image for larger version

Name:	fs3x.png
Views:	2
Size:	36.9 KB
ID:	841586Click image for larger version

Name:	whammy hack revisited.gif
Views:	2
Size:	9.8 KB
ID:	841587

          Comment


          • #20
            ps... if ya have it all hooked up right, and it doesn't cycle the presets, power down the unit. sometimes it won't recognize the external pedal if it's plugged in while the unit is on, particularly if you've already twiddled the preset connector knob. on reboot the hack should work. let me know.

            apologies if i seem like an old grouchy hippy, i kinda am that. peace

            Comment


            • #21
              a head-scratcher switching problem

              "Sounds like a job for a diode-OR

              I built one for my Brian May Red Special pedal. I can't remember the functions but based on your experiments it likely was :
              tip ->sleeve (up)
              ring ->sleeve (mode)
              tip & ring -> sleeve (down)

              Let's call the switches 1 (up), 2 (mode) & 3 (down) with terminals Y & Z. connect terminal Z of all switches to the jack sleeve
              connect 1-Y to jack tip
              connect 2-Y to jack ring
              connect a diode anode to jack tip, cathode to 3-Y
              connect another diode anode to jack ring, cathode to 3-Y

              (leave out the mode switch if you don't want it, but I'd have to bet it does *something*)

              david"

              Comment

              Working...
              X