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Ampeg VL-1002 fx loop problem

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  • Ampeg VL-1002 fx loop problem

    When the loop is in the circuit the volume drops off, no low end, crackles and in general sounds bad. When switched out it sounds normal. The loop utilizes a NE5532N for send and return. The supply rails read +/-13.9v. I was just going to replace the chip unless I should check something else. Also mouser doesn't have the 5532N. It brings up a OPA2604AP for $6 a piece or a 5532AP for $1. What is a good replacement or should I put a socket in and try different ones? Or could I use a 4558 I pulled from a PV? Given the pins are the same.

  • #2
    I do not know the difference between a 5532 N or the AP.
    I do know the AP is the lowest noise version.
    Are you using the pad switch?
    That is supposed to increase the loop output by 12db.
    Manual: http://www.amparchives.com/Amp%20Arc...ce%20Guide.pdf
    Full Schematic:Amp Archives/Ampeg/Schematics/Ampeg VL-502, VL-1001 & VL-1002
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • #3
      Before you change anything, plug a cord from send to return. Does this bypass connection restore the sound? If so, clean the cutouts on those jacks.

      The 5532 is just a plain old vanilla op amp. it is a low noise type. But ANY plain old vanilla op amp will work. A 4558 would work just fine, and while the 4558 has potentially higher noise levels, it may not. This is not a high gain stage anyway, so noise may not be an issue at all. A 4580 is more recent , darn common, and just as good a sub.


      Even if the noise went up a hair, it would still show whether the problem was the IC or not. Hell, put in a DIP socket, you can swap it out for a fancy chip later. DOn;t order a $1 IC just for this.

      A chip like the 5532 or the 4558, usually the first couple letters mainly identify the maker. NE5532 is a TI part, while NJM5523 is a NJR part. The letters after the number mostly refer to packaging. 5532P as in P for plastic. 5532A is just a later version of 5532. 5532AP is the same in plastic. Other brands might use a D or an N for plastic, you have to look up the data sheets when in doubt.

      I sincerely doubt you will get any real improvement by spending $6 for an op amp in this application.


      But please just bypass the jacks first.
      Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

      Comment


      • #4
        Before you change anything, plug a cord from send to return. Does this bypass connection restore the sound? If so, clean the cutouts on those jacks.

        The 5532 is just a plain old vanilla op amp. it is a low noise type. But ANY plain old vanilla op amp will work. A 4558 would work just fine, and while the 4558 has potentially higher noise levels, it may not. This is not a high gain stage anyway, so noise may not be an issue at all. A 4580 is more recent , darn common, and just as good a sub.


        Even if the noise went up a hair, it would still show whether the problem was the IC or not. Hell, put in a DIP socket, you can swap it out for a fancy chip later. DOn;t order a $1 IC just for this.

        A chip like the 5532 or the 4558, usually the first couple letters mainly identify the maker. NE5532 is a TI part, while NJM5523 is a NJR part. The letters after the number mostly refer to packaging. 5532P as in P for plastic. 5532A is just a later version of 5532. 5532AP is the same in plastic. Other brands might use a D or an N for plastic, you have to look up the data sheets when in doubt.

        I sincerely doubt you will get any real improvement by spending $6 for an op amp in this application.


        But please just bypass the jacks first.
        Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks for posting the schemes and manual. Computer took a dump and I have to post using my phone.
          There is no difference with loop in and pad on or off.

          Comment


          • #6
            Enzo you replied while I typed last post. I put a patch in and there was no improvement. Same problem

            Comment


            • #7
              What exactly are you using the loop for?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View Post
                What exactly are you using the loop for?
                My buddy uses a pedal board full of fx

                Comment


                • #9
                  Have you proven that it is Not a component on the pedal board?
                  Had to ask.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jazz P Bass View Post
                    Have you proven that it is Not a component on the pedal board?
                    Had to ask.
                    He has 2 more amps I worked on and they work perfect with the fx in the loop.
                    Problem is with the loop on/in with no pedal board in the loop it still has the same affliction

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Put the 4558 in & try it.

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                      • #12
                        Finally got time to work on this. I put in socket and used the 4558 and it works great. I can't notice any increase in noise. Case closed. Thanks guys

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