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5150 hideous death

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  • #46
    I just got my first offer to trade dope for my 6505+

    "Trade for ommp?"

    Oregon medical Marijua..?
    NONONONONONONONONONONONONONONONONONONONONO

    amp was spray painted bright GREEN when I bought it...coincidence???
    Last edited by tedmich; 02-14-2016, 08:22 PM.

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    • #47
      SOLD all the amps!

      Down to Ultra+ 212, Bravo and Ultra 120 head

      so I sold 1/2 my amps really...
      Last edited by tedmich; 03-10-2016, 10:58 PM.

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      • #48
        Hi
        My 5150 have this problem too.
        My friend can make a pcb to me. But how can I remove the original board turret and pin. And how to install it to the new pcb?

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        • #49
          If I am not mistaken, the sockets are held in by pop rivets.
          In that case you must use a drill to remove the rivet head.

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          • #50
            Originally posted by tedmich View Post
            working on my 5150 again, found this modded board pic online

            [ATTACH=CONFIG]37458[/ATTACH]

            LOL!!
            Ooooo! Niiiice.
            The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.

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            • #51
              Originally posted by Kwm488 View Post
              Hi
              My 5150 have this problem too.
              My friend can make a pcb to me. But how can I remove the original board turret and pin. And how to install it to the new pcb?
              JPB is correct, rivets hold the tube sockets onto the chassis, drill them out and take extra care to remove metal shavings. A cheap harbor freight rivet gun will reinstall.

              The pins come loose wit a big ~50w solder iron and fit back nicely with the right sized hole in the new PCB, or you can solder the ribbon cable direct to the board (many do).

              I did a solder flood on the traces that PV had, figuring they carry more current.

              I let the pierced dude who bought the 5150 know that while it was 100% stock electrically it didn't have a PV board . He wasn't a collector so didn't mind but as a final test totally dimed it through the 2 x 12" Ultra 212

              it felt like the apt complex was falling down...good times!

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              • #52
                Thread creep alert. This arrived on my bench a couple of weeks ago.

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                The cap at the bottom was just hanging on its leads. Yikes!
                Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

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                • #53
                  That's not a hack job* per se. That's a straight up amateur job. Clearly done by someone who doesn't understand the dangers or consequences.

                  * If I may define a "hack job" as one done by a bad tech rather than an amateur. You can sort of tell the difference.
                  "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

                  "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

                  "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
                  You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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                  • #54
                    Originally posted by nickb View Post
                    Thread creep alert. This arrived on my bench a couple of weeks ago.

                    [ATTACH=CONFIG]44813[/ATTACH]

                    The cap at the bottom was just hanging on its leads. Yikes!
                    Not only is that cap hanging by the leads, it is also hovering right over a pair of cement resistors that no doubt heat up nice and hot!! I would think exposing the filters caps to that kind of heat is just asking for trouble.
                    When the going gets weird... The weird turn pro!

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                    • #55
                      I'm with CHuck, this is total amateur work. Note that not only did he stuff radials in where readily available axials belong, but he snipped off the old leads and soldered the new to the little remaining stubs, instead of soldering the new leads to the board. The clumsy wire splice to extend the cap leads. In general approaching this like it is just a pile of parts to replace - no concern over stability, heat, or anything else.
                      Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                      • #56
                        Hi

                        I want to mod my 5150 combo. I find out the schematic is different with 5150 amp head.

                        Please see the schematic, is this 47k a bias resistor?
                        If yes, I should choose 22k or 47k trimmer? And what value resistor ? 10k?

                        And I want to add 1ohm resistor to the power tube pin, to check the ma. I did it for vintage Marshall. How can I do it?

                        Thank you

                        Is Click image for larger version

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                        • #57
                          Hi Kwm488,

                          Just fyi, you'll probably get better responses and faster by starting your own new thread instead of piggybacking off of this one.

                          Justin
                          "Wow it's red! That doesn't look like the standard Marshall red. It's more like hooker lipstick/clown nose/poodle pecker red." - Chuck H. -
                          "Of course that means playing **LOUD** , best but useless solution to modern sissy snowflake players." - J.M. Fahey -
                          "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

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