Repairing hf driver

[Trick]

Hi, I have a broken high frequency driver in this Kustom monitor. I already repaired it once and broke again in the same place. It looks the the metal transducer disc was attached to the cone somehow....can I use hot glue and how should I resolder connection?

If I rather replace this, can I order a better component. What do I look for?

Thank you.

[J M Fahey]

1) it´s a cheap piezo.
2) not hot glue, use a *small* drop of Epoxy, even better if you heat the area somewhat with a hair dryer or heat gun, so fresh epoxy becomes slightly liquid (or at least softer) and "wets" the cardboard cone somewhat better.
Or just buy a similar size Piezo tweeter, open it, pull the cone and piezo disk (you´ll have to desolder it from terminals) and mount it inside original Kustom horn/frame so it fits in the same original hole.

[Trick]

1) it´s a cheap piezo.
2) not hot glue, use a *small* drop of Epoxy, even better if you heat the area somewhat with a hair dryer or heat gun, so fresh epoxy becomes slightly liquid (or at least softer) and "wets" the cardboard cone somewhat better.
Or just buy a similar size Piezo tweeter, open it, pull the cone and piezo disk (you´ll have to desolder it from terminals) and mount it inside original Kustom horn/frame so it fits in the same original hole.

Yea, I'd probably like to upgrade it with a better piezo, how are they measured or rated so I know what to look for, any suggestions?

In the meantime, I need it for an upcoming gig, what epoxy do I get? Any tips on soldering to it for strength.

Thank for the assistance.

[J M Fahey]

For less than the price of Epoxy, I'd straight buy a new Piezo (they are all basically the same) , unscrew its back , pull the "driver" (roughly 2" paper cone with attached disk and leads) and "transplant" it to the old plastic case to meke certain it fits, but if you want to actually repair, mix a matchhead size of Epoxy (just what's needed, excess will be too heavy and kill highs) and reglue disk to cone.

I always slightly press them together with a toothpick or something and slightly warm the area with a hair dryer or heat gun, this makes epoxy slightly softer and it sticks better to paper.
5/10 minute epoxy is fine.

To resolder the missing braided lead, remember that disk is actually unsolderable ceramic, with a very thin metallized coat ... which is very easy to destroy, so use a small soldering iron, melt a little solder on the end of the braid, and *just* melt that small solder ball (also matchhead size or smaller) into the old solder still attached to the disk.
You stay there 5 seconds more than needed and you will peel it off.

That's why I suggested "transplanting" a working disk/cone assembly from anoiher unit, if available.

You don't show the front of the piezo horn, maybe you can just replace the whole unit with a generic one.

EDIT: I love (NOT!!) how they use a large finned heatsink for the power amp ... and bury it inside a closed cabinet

[Jazz P Bass]

FYI, here is a good read on piezo speakers.
http://www.bestgrouptechnologies.com...background.php

[Audiotexan]

ALL great ideas from Juan.

For less than the price of Epoxy, I'd straight buy a new Piezo

This is my second favorite option (assuming you're buying an identical replacement from Kustom). Chances are high that you're going to get the same 'quality' of speaker that you got the first time. But given the first one was repaired, and not replaced, I guess I shouldn't make that statement. I just don't hold Kustom in any regard quality wise, but that stems from their 70s amps. No clue about their speaker cabinets.

That's why I suggested "transplanting" a working disk/cone assembly from anoiher unit, if available.

Also viable...but a possible fair bit of work entailed to customize the fit.

You don't show the front of the piezo horn, maybe you can just replace the whole unit with a generic one.

This is my favorite option. Buying component speakers usually means an upgrade.
Piezo Tweeter | Horn Tweeter | Piezo Horn Driver | Horn Driver | Tweeter Driver

EDIT: I love (NOT!!) how they use a large finned heatsink for the power amp ... and bury it inside a closed cabinet

Oh Man. That always gets me. Talk about dumb.
I guess they put the heatsink on just so it makes it past the warranty period. They have to know it's gonna smoke anyways inside a closed environment.

[The Dude]

Most piezos use the same "rear assembly"- that is the actual driver. You can usually just unscrew it and put it on whatever lens is there without any soldering or other such messing around.