Gold Foil Bobbins

[jrdamien]

Good point. You could wind the coil directly around the magnet- and that appears to be the way they were originally made:
Gold Foil Guitar Pickups Japan...Types & Observations | eBay
But I think fiber flatwork would be considerably thicker than the original bobbin flanges.

FWIW, I have a "toaster-like" DeArmond pickup. The bottom "bobbin flange" is the flat, enamel-painted steel baseplate, and the top flange is two sheets of plastic laminated together - thin black plastic that looks like the stuff acoustic guitar pickguards are made of.

-rb

I didn't look at that link but have rewound enough that I'm almost certain the bobbin fit around the magnet (in the type I am referring to). But that's only an option if you've got that type of bobbin.

In the toaster type you have, isn't that top black part the magnet?

[rjb]

I didn't look at that link but have rewound enough that I'm almost certain the bobbin fit around the magnet (in the type I am referring to). But that's only an option if you've got that type of bobbin.

If you had looked at the link, you'd see that it said the early "Ry Cooder" style had coil wound directly around the magnet.
Later "tulip" style (like yours) had bobbin that fits around the magnet.
You should check out the link. It has descriptions and clear dissection photos of all Teisco GFs.

In the toaster type you have, isn't that top black part the magnet?

No. From bottom to top, I've got: baseplate, magnet, plastic.
The flat baseplate is painted with insulating enamel, and the magnet is glued to the baseplate. The plastic flange is glued to the magnet.
The coil is wound around the magnet, between the baseplate (which is the bottom flange) and the plastic top flange.
The cover is held on by two small rivets that pass through holes thru the magnets and the entire assembly.

-rb

[jrdamien]

If you had looked at the link, you'd see that it said the early "Ry Cooder" style had coil wound directly around the magnet.
Later "tulip" style (like yours) had bobbin that fits around the magnet.
You should check out the link. It has descriptions and clear dissection photos of all Teisco GFs.


No. From bottom to top, I've got: baseplate, magnet, plastic.
The flat baseplate is painted with insulating enamel, and the magnet is glued to the baseplate. The plastic flange is glued to the magnet.
The coil is wound around the magnet, between the baseplate (which is the bottom flange) and the plastic top flange.
The cover is held on by two small rivets that pass through holes thru the magnets and the entire assembly.

-rb

I didn't mean I wouldn't read it. I was just on my phone and rushing. Didn't mean to sound like an ass. I was trying to say that the one's I had repaired, from the "tulips" to some other weirdos that have come along, having had bobbins not integral to the magnet (but the originals having the magnet integrated to the bobbin), it should sound fine gluing the bobbin to the magnet. Which obviously it must since that's how they did it in the first place!

[Lollar Jason]

Odd- read the article and the one in the first photo is what I make and all the ones I took apart to get specs and draw up all the parts to have them made- which are the parts everyone uses that make that type- all had a bobbin like in the second example- never seen one with the coil wound directly onto the magnet other than the Dearmond type with the enameled steel bottom plate.
I use bondable wire for a few items and it really works! The bonding agent is on the wire itself- it is somewhat expensive though. All you do is run the wire through a felt pad that you drip a little alcohol on- the trick is getting the amount correct- too wet and youll throw bonding agent all over and it wont solidify correctly. trick is top get it moist but not soaking wet. used on epiphone new yorkers and fender trapazoid pickups among a few others

[jrdamien]

Odd- read the article and the one in the first photo is what I make and all the ones I took apart to get specs and draw up all the parts to have them made- which are the parts everyone uses that make that type- all had a bobbin like in the second example- never seen one with the coil wound directly onto the magnet other than the Dearmond type with the enameled steel bottom plate.
I use bondable wire for a few items and it really works! The bonding agent is on the wire itself- it is somewhat expensive though. All you do is run the wire through a felt pad that you drip a little alcohol on- the trick is getting the amount correct- too wet and youll throw bonding agent all over and it wont solidify correctly. trick is top get it moist but not soaking wet. used on epiphone new yorkers and fender trapazoid pickups among a few others

More really great info, if only as proof that I'm not losing my mind or memory!

[rjb]

Didn't mean to sound like an ass.

No problem. I do it all the time. Then again, I probably am an ass.

-rb

PS: No way I can vouch for the accuracy of the article. I haven't disassembled Ry Cooder's pickup either.

PPS: Getting back to the original question, have you decided how to construct your bobbin? Is "Plan A" to glue plastic to both sides of the magnet?

PPPS: If it's not a trade secret, where do you source magnets for these things?

[Lollar Jason]

thickness of each flange is .020 so total height of bobbin is .185 and the opening for the coil is .145

[jrdamien]

No problem. I do it all the time. Then again, I probably am an ass.

-rb

PS: No way I can vouch for the accuracy of the article. I haven't disassembled Ry Cooder's pickup either.

PPS: Getting back to the original question, have you decided how to construct your bobbin? Is "Plan A" to glue plastic to both sides of the magnet?

Plan A is to glue the bobbin to the magnet. It's still the only affordable and consistent means of production I have both thought of and made work. But I have yet to test the tone which is next, and will also be several weeks away.

[jrdamien]

thickness of each flange is .020 so total height of bobbin is .185 and the opening for the coil is .145

So any fiber board would be way too thick.

[Alberto]

I don't know what the technical name is in English, maybe finnboard (cartonlegno in Italian, cartonbois in French), it is used to make architectural models and fine art projects. You may laser cut it and it should not warp. It comes in 0,019685'' (0,5mm) sheets. I was planning to use it but I haven't yet. Take a look here https://www.monolithdesign.it/en/pap...nboard-05.html