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  • Ampeg SVT 7 Pro power lacking

    Hi, my name is Greg. I come here seeking knowledge.

    I have given up getting any support from Ampeg/Loud on this amp, so I turn to strangers on the internet. I have found a few threads here regarding the SVT 7 Pro (but different than my issue) and folks seemed very knowledgeable and helpful so I though I would throw this out here.

    The amp is a rev B unit that had the main board changed to rev G prior to me buying it. I bought it as a fixer with it cutting out almost continuously. I had found the rev H rework instructions and figured it might be an easy flip (yeah, I know )

    After doing the rework the amp works but 1.) it still cuts out but much less than before and 2.) it doesn't have the volume it should. It seems like it is maybe putting out a couple hundred watts. Patching into the power amp from a different pre yields the same result. Output sounds fine, no distortion. Cutting out is much reduced by cooling the replaced U2 chip with airflow and a small heatsink.

    I have probed the voltage rails and they seem fine (I am using the schematic from this thread post #21 http://music-electronics-forum.com/t28440/#post307936, which seem pretty much identical even though it is an earlier rev than my board). I need to go measure the voltages at U17 and U300 and on the output FETs, but wanted to throw out the question in case someone had a thought. This thing seems to have a whole slew of different mutes and protections that might be screwing me up.

    Thanks in advance.
    Greg

  • #2
    2.) it doesn't have the volume it should. It seems like it is maybe putting out a couple hundred watts. Patching into the power amp from a different pre yields the same result. Output sounds fine, no distortion.
    OK, start by confirming or denying it has a power output problem.

    It claims 1000W RMS into 4 ohms, so build a suitable load resistor , feed 1 kHz into the power amp and measure what you get.

    I suggest you make a load resistor out of water heater resistors, placed inside a water filled bucket, no kidding, mix/match until you get 4 ohms or thereabouts.

    For example, this 240V 4500W one, is 12.6 ohms and costs only $16.50 ; 3 of them in parallel would make a fine 4 ohm load, able to safely dissipate kilowatts.
    https://www.amazon.com/Rheem-SP10869.../dp/B0027F3DO6

    Do the Math, maybe a single 120V one of proper power gives you straight 4 ohms, or nearby.

    R=Vē/W so for 4 ohms you would need a 120V 3600W one , or a couple 120V ones in parallel to reach 3600W nominal dissipation.
    Juan Manuel Fahey

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    • #3
      Juan, I totally agree, and was planning on making a load (or loads) out of electric space heater elements (keeping the fan on the AC for cooling them) but haven't finished that yet. Anyone know what is the assumption on input amplitude on full power for these amps?

      The judgement on lack of power comes from A/B comparison with a 300W Eden amp, which seemed louder, but unless you are running both full out with the max input it is not definitive.
      Last edited by glebert; 08-02-2017, 06:18 AM.

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      • #4
        Seems like the cutting out problem is getting worse, I wonder if the ICE2A265 (U2) has been heat damaged. I have another chip and will put that in and put the heatsink on right away this time.

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        • #5
          I would start by using the preamp out and power amp in jacks to determine if it's the preamp stages that are cutting out or the power amp stages.
          "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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          • #6
            From speaking with the techs at an Ampeg service center I learned that early revs of this board have a problem similar to yours. Have a read here.

            I changed all the diodes and caps on the secondary side of that aux power supply and measured the current on all the power rails -all was OK. The only thing I didn't change was the flyback transformer.

            Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

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            • #7
              Nick, thanks for the link, I hadn't found that thread. That does sound pretty close to my issue. When you were measuring the current, how did you know what "good" values were? Did you calculate from scratch or did Ampeg give you values? Also another dumb question, are you doing a series current measurement, measuring across a resistor, or something else?

              This amp will have to wait a while, as I am leaving town for a couple weeks. Thanks for the replies and advice so far.

              Greg

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              • #8
                For the preamp I cut the wires and did a series measurement. For the power amp side I measured across a resistor IIRC. My values were very close to those in an earlier post in that thread. I was looking for something obviously high. I also wanted to measure the total power draw and compare it to the ICE265 datasheet, it was just 4.5W. I didn't make it very clear (sorry) that changing all those diodes /caps did not help at all.


                Here are my notesAmpeg_SVT-7_PRO_Power_Amp_Schematics_anno.pdf
                Last edited by nickb; 08-05-2017, 11:22 AM.
                Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

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                • #9
                  Quick update on this, I did replace the U2 (ICE2A265), put on the biggest heatsink that would fit onto it, and the amp is playing well for now. I'm not having cutouts and it seems louder (again, subjective, but in the end that counts too). I am going to try to figure out if I can squeeze in a muffin fan on the exit vent. I don't want to load down the DC rails and AC fans tend to be bigger, so don't know if I can find something. Kind of temped to drill a bunch of holes in the top and put a fan up there. It is a pretty thick plate though and don't know that I want to hack it up too much.

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                  • #10
                    I've got a handy little 120v x 12v tranny here that can do .5amp

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by glebert View Post
                      Quick update on this, I did replace the U2 (ICE2A265), put on the biggest heatsink that would fit onto it, and the amp is playing well for now. I'm not having cutouts and it seems louder (again, subjective, but in the end that counts too). I am going to try to figure out if I can squeeze in a muffin fan on the exit vent. I don't want to load down the DC rails and AC fans tend to be bigger, so don't know if I can find something. Kind of temped to drill a bunch of holes in the top and put a fan up there. It is a pretty thick plate though and don't know that I want to hack it up too much.
                      You can try but I don't think the power consumption is the issue at just 4.5W. Gluing a heatsink on the driver is cheap, easy and effective.
                      Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

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                      • #12
                        I did make a quick heatsink of aluminum stock and put it on there as an experiment. Seemed to cure the issue. I might make up one out of a spring clip to catch the front and back of the ic. I've not know of any ic that's normally in that kind of state that it would require a heatsink tho. It's that or just spring for a new pcb so I can sell the amp confidently

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                        • #13
                          Looks like Aavid makes a nice little slide on dip8 spring clip style. I'll copy that design and add some paste too, see how it goes

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                          • #14
                            I also changed the 12AX7 to a Retrovalve to eliminate the heater power. Can't say it changed the sound at all. BTW, note that my SVT7Pro has been found to have a problem with the U300 chip being sensitive to shock and vibration, which may have been the problem for me all along. http://music-electronics-forum.com/s...ad.php?t=46071

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                            • #15
                              Did you ever reflow the solder and see if that helped?

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