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Cutting grp sheet

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  • #16
    I'm pretty sure GRP (aka FRP) is just a generic term referring to glass-fibre and plastic resin composites, usually polyester or epoxy resin. I've never seen the term applied to thermoplastics, i.e. glass-filled nylon. The material in question is most likely just G10, FR4, or equivalent. Just a difference in terminology I think.

    Andy

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    • #17
      One nice thing about trade names like "garolite" and specific formulations like "G-10" is that they remove all of that ambiguity. Knowing that a specific product conforms to MIL-I-24768/27, UL 94V0 removes all ambiguity about it's worthiness for our application.

      To further remove ambiguity: G-10 is a material type specification, and it's technically correct to use the term G-10 to identify a product. FR4 is a fire retardance rating, it's not a material type specification. When shopping we're looking for a G-10 product with a FR4 rating, not an FR4 product.
      "Stand back, I'm holding a calculator." - chinrest

      "I happen to have an original 1955 Stratocaster! The neck and body have been replaced with top quality Warmoth parts, I upgraded the hardware and put in custom, hand wound pickups. It's fabulous. There's nothing like that vintage tone or owning an original." - Chuck H

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Bloomfield View Post
        I'm pretty sure GRP (aka FRP) is just a generic term referring to glass-fibre and plastic resin composites, usually polyester or epoxy resin. I've never seen the term applied to thermoplastics, i.e. glass-filled nylon. The material in question is most likely just G10, FR4, or equivalent. Just a difference in terminology I think.

        Andy
        I suppose your right. I read "plastic" and I assumed thermoplastics. Usually if something is somehow better that is indicated in it's moniker. ie: Polyester Resin, Space Age Polymer or Catalyzed Epoxy. All plastics for sure, but where's the slick marketing in just calling them plastic Thinking about it now it makes sense because I don't know of any thermo plastics that would have the necessary bonding strength to take advantage of glass fiber reinforcement.

        Ok, so, all of the above good advice from Bob applies
        "Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo

        "Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas

        "If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
        You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz

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        • #19
          I use a 10" abrasive disc in my ancient table saw. It works perfectly, doesn't seem to dull and makes clean cuts.

          Dave

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          • #20
            wouldn't the abrasive disc make the substrate get hot? IME cutting metals abrasive disks end up heating the workpiece a lot. so i'd be concerned about heating the G10 board. otherwise the abrasive disc sounds like it could be a good option ... but boy oh boy, that type of cutter would put a lot more small particulate stuff into the air that I don't want to breathe. mask required. i recently went to a specialized saw for cutting ferrous metals so I wouldn't have to mess with abrasive discs any more. but for someone who doesn't want to commit to expensive tools, i think an abrasive disc would probably be a good way to go if it doesn't heat the board enough to give it burn marks.
            "Stand back, I'm holding a calculator." - chinrest

            "I happen to have an original 1955 Stratocaster! The neck and body have been replaced with top quality Warmoth parts, I upgraded the hardware and put in custom, hand wound pickups. It's fabulous. There's nothing like that vintage tone or owning an original." - Chuck H

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            • #21
              No, it doesn't heat it up. I never noticed the material melting at all and no marks on the edges. It does make a fine dust, so a mask is a must. I also like that it doesn't chip the material at all.

              Dave

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