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How would you remount this transformer?

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  • How would you remount this transformer?

    I've got a Line 6 AX2 that was dropped from considerable height and broke all four of the transformer mounts. Previous owner had packed foam rubber around it to keep it in place and it still works. I would like to make it perhaps a bit more robust, but don't want to screw up a part that is working.

    Originally the bracket would have looked about like this:
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    Now it looks like this:
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    Here is a zoom out if that helps:
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    Have though about using something like this:
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    the issue with this is to attach this to transformer I would have to partially disassemble and replace with longer bolts, and seems like it might be susceptible to vibration loosening. Was wondering if it would be better to use two pieces of L channel (one for each side), cut and overdrill to fit over the two bolts, and JB weld that to the old straps. Something like this (excuse the crude sketch).
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    Thoughts? Other ideas?

    Thanks,
    Greg

  • #2
    I think the L-bracket idea is just fine. Just cut them down to size. I'm unclear on why you'd need longer screws, though. Is the bracket that much thicker than the original mount? Can't you just remove the old broken pieces and install the new?

    Another thought: Do you have any scrap transformers laying around that you might be able to salvage some parts from?
    "I took a photo of my ohm meter... It didn't help." Enzo 8/20/22

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    • #3
      Originally posted by The Dude View Post
      I'm unclear on why you'd need longer screws, though. Is the bracket that much thicker than the original mount? Can't you just remove the old broken pieces and install the new?
      The L brackets are thicker than the original metal, but the problem really is that it would be difficult to remove the original mounting strap (the pictures don't show it but the original mount strap goes all the way to the top of the tranformer). If I leave that in place and put another bracket (x2) on top of it I will definitely run out of threads.

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      • #4
        Showing strap going to the top
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        • #5
          There's not a lot of small mounting brackets like those used on the OEM transformer Line 6 is using readily available.. I'm sure Line 6 would want to just sell you another transformer, as only their transformer vendor would have access to those brackets. The small bracket you show looks like a part you'd find in an HH Smith or Keystone catalog, and not quite the right part. In normal right angle metal, be it steel or aluminum, the stock sizes are 1/2", 3/4" and 1". McMaster-Carr has that type of material available in suitable lengths (as short as 12"), and you could cut the length to fit the core, then drill the mtg holes for the core bolts and mtg centers. I assume there's a little latitude in height above the transformer, in the event the material used, say 3/4" x 3/4" gave the best fit, but would raise the core off the surface a bit.

          I can't think of a source for a wide variety of mounting brackets like the transformer mfgr buys their hardware from.
          Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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          • #6
            I think that using something like the L brackets you found is not a problem. Just put them on top of the broken straps and make the mounting holes to line up with the existing ones. It is also OK to use longer bolts on the transformer. You may find that the existing bolts have insulating sleeves. If so then just reuse them on the longer bolts.

            It seems strange that the existing brackets snapped off as you show. Bad material I say.

            Comment


            • #7
              "Just" a hard knock, strong enough to clanly shear them off would probably also bent the chassis big time.
              I guess brackets were compromised by vibration and the knock was the last straw.

              A transformer wide single L bracket on each side as shown in one drawing is best and strongest option; if 1/2" by 1/2" by, say, 1/16" thick aluminum L extrusion will be far stronger and more resilient than original.
              Your friendly local aluminum window maker will have spare chunks in his wastebasket.

              Get 1/2" longer bolts, donīt worry about the EI core proper because itīs vacuum impregnated in strong varnish, you wonīt have a vibration problem at all and in any case you will tighten your bolts, so ....

              A plan B (not really necessary but ....) would be to MIG weld broken bracket pieces together, forget JB weld.
              Grind smooth and remount.
              Juan Manuel Fahey

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              • #8
                Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post

                Get 1/2" longer bolts, donīt worry about the EI core proper because itīs vacuum impregnated in strong varnish, you wonīt have a vibration problem at all and in any case you will tighten your bolts, so ....
                That is good info, I didn't want to remove bolts if necessary because I didn't want anything delaminating. Thanks for the feedback everyone!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by glebert View Post
                  That is good info, I didn't want to remove bolts if necessary because I didn't want anything delaminating. Thanks for the feedback everyone!
                  If you remove the bolts, either do them one at a time or just the bottom two. The top two bolts will hold the transformer together until you get it reassembled.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by glebert View Post
                    ...I didn't want to remove bolts if necessary because I didn't want anything delaminating...
                    Don't worry about that. A properly built transformer will not de-laminate even if you remove all four bolts. In fact, when you actually want to separate the laminations in order to get to the core it can be a rather difficult process.

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                    • #11
                      If you can drill new chassis holes about 5/8"" closer together, replace the broken brackets with a piece of 3/8" square bar stock, and mount it to the chassis with the new holes. You'd need all new bolts of course.

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                      • #12
                        Finally got this finished after a couple trips to the hardware store and more than a few trips to the drill press.

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