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Does this switch exist ?

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  • #16
    here is the switch in the XXX schematic (2368)
    Click image for larger version

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    it looks like a DP3T ON-OFF-ON

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    • #17
      Originally posted by tedmich View Post
      here is the switch in the XXX schematic (2368)
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]46923[/ATTACH]
      it looks like a DP3T ON-OFF-ON
      Thanks, tho that doesn't tell me if it's on/on/on. I thought about it and i think lead/crunch/clean could probably be accomplished with on/off/on as u suggest.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Enzo View Post
        Mouser has a number of on-on-on but in the mini toggle size.
        Have you checked data sheets?
        The problem is that most switches listed as on-on-on work like the one on the left.
        Daz needs one that works like the one on the right.


        -rb
        Last edited by rjb; 02-02-2018, 06:20 PM.
        DON'T FEED THE TROLLS!

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        • #19
          Originally posted by rjb View Post
          Have you checked data sheets?
          The problem is that most switches listed as on-on-on work like the one on the left.
          Daz needs one that works like the one on the right.


          -rb
          Exactly, i need the right one. But like u said, if i could find a 4PDT on/on/on like the left one, that could work.

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          • #20
            No,, I didn't check any of the data sheets. I just found a bunch of 3-on listings. I don;t have time to do the complete research, it was just a suggestion.

            The PV part may well not be what we need, it was just work checking out.

            First three digits on PV part numbers are overall type and source.

            713xxxx is a switch from domestic sources (Meaning Mississippi warehouse.) They same part numbers starting with 3 means imported. Any time you need a PV part from before that starts with 7, you can always try asking for a 3 series. Like pots, they all translate that way.

            The last five digits determine the actual type switch.

            302(702) - resistor
            303 - cap
            304 - semiconductor
            307 - speaker
            311 - potentiometer
            313 - switch
            314 - jack
            to name a few common ones.


            rjb, even if you are right, in a sound system, we can leave the common wire unswitched, and short the two center posts together and use those types. One channel. You want stereo, gang two or use a 4 pole type.
            Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Enzo View Post

              rjb, even if you are right, in a sound system, we can leave the common wire unswitched, and short the two center posts together and use those types. One channel. You want stereo, gang two or use a 4 pole type.
              LOL!!! I'm such a numbskull that didn't occur to me ! I can just hardwire the amps negative to both speakers and use a on/on/on DPDT to switch between + to spkr 1, + to spkr 2, and + to both. Dunno why that didn't occur to me cuz you do it all the time with with signals. Good catch Enzo, at least i THINK thats what you meant.

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              • #22
                I think that is what I was thinking, but the bottom line is whatever it was, it gave you a successful idea for a solution.
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Enzo View Post
                  I think that is what I was thinking, but the bottom line is whatever it was, it gave you a successful idea for a solution.
                  Yes it did, thank you good sir...

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                  • #24
                    All's well that ends.


                    -rb
                    DON'T FEED THE TROLLS!

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                    • #25
                      I ran across a full-sized 4 pole double throw*** on-on-on switch working on a 1,000,000 BTU "blast" furnace used in an autobody shop 15 or 20 years ago. The company that tried to repair it previously did not know about on-on-on switches so the switch that they put in did not work properly in the middle position.

                      I called it a "blast" furnace because there was no vented heat exchanger - the flames just shot out into the large room where the painted cars were "cooked".

                      *** It might have been a 2 pole switch but after all of these years my memory is just a blur...


                      Steve A.

                      P.S. I was perplexed a bit at first about the solution Daz posted because I only know of on-on-on switches as shown in the left drawing in Post#18... BUT if you jumper the 2 center terminals together you can select one, the other or both. You do need to ohm out the switch to make sure you are using the correct terminals...

                      D'oh!
                      Last edited by Steve A.; 02-04-2018, 05:05 AM.
                      The Blue Guitar
                      www.blueguitar.org
                      Some recordings:
                      https://soundcloud.com/sssteeve/sets...e-blue-guitar/
                      .

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