Opinion of biscuit joining?

[Humber]

Another first time poster here, starting off right with a slightly off-topic question: what the general opinion of biscuit joining a small combo cab? I have a biscuit joiner, and am considering my first amp build, so want to keep tool aquisition and learning curve within reason. I'm not concerned with keeping to the vintage straight and narrow, but want the thing to sound good and stay in one piece. I'm thinking of using some wood salvaged from an old organ--looks like alder 1x2's with walnut veneer. I figure wood that's had music in it for 50 years has some advantage over new plywood?

[Bruce / Mission Amps]

Another first time poster here, starting off right with a slightly off-topic question: what the general opinion of biscuit joining a small combo cab? I have a biscuit joiner, and am considering my first amp build, so want to keep tool aquisition and learning curve within reason. I'm not concerned with keeping to the vintage straight and narrow, but want the thing to sound good and stay in one piece. I'm thinking of using some wood salvaged from an old organ--looks like alder 1x2's with walnut veneer. I figure wood that's had music in it for 50 years has some advantage over new plywood?

I've used mine thousands of times, joining everything from solid wood table top glue ups to 90 degree corners in plywood carcass.
They work perfectly fine with good furniture grade 19mm Baltic Birch when making cabinet carcasses and better with solid wood.
Your veneer pieces might be old enough to be solid wood substrate with a thicker (by today's standards) walnut veneer cover.
Using cheaper plywoods, especially with softer Doug Fir laminations, the biscuit technique is probably OK for a small combo but might not be quite strong enough to hold the corner joints (and laminations) of the support the lid, with a strong handle, and a 50-90 lb 1x12 or 2x12 combo.
I'd consider some 1.5" x 1/4" to 3/8" glued in, fluted dowels for those joints.
Just a thought.