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Thread: National Model 90 resto pics

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Oct 2008
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    National Model 90 resto pics

    A few before and after pics. The face was too pitted to save so I opted for paint with a nice basecoat of Bondo. Hammertone finish on the chassis. Still a little work to do inside and also to the cabinet, but should be up and running in a week or two. Anyone wants a nice high-res file of the National logo, let me know. I scanned and cleaned it up for decal-making.
    Dave
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails face-before.jpg   face-after3.jpg   chassis-after.jpg  

  2. #2
    Senior Member trevorus's Avatar
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    Oct 2007
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    That looks awesome. I have a Silvertone 1483 that needs the same treatment.

  3. #3
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    That face plate came out excellent. very nice job

  4. #4
    Senior Member scole's Avatar
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    hay valve, id like to know how to make the decals.

  5. #5
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    Oct 2008
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    7

    Decal making

    I used a Testors Custom Decal System kit:
    http://www.testors.com/product/0/919...m_Decal_System
    I know the papers are also made under other brands too. You can find them at many good hobby stores that sells their models and paints. I know our Hobby Lobby carries them as well as one independent local shop. It comes with a software CD that allows you to do type, shapes, racecar numbers, airplane fighter symbols, lots of model stuff, etc... I just used the closest typeface I could find. It comes with six sheets (three opaque, three transparent sheets of decal paper). You use the software to create the decals then print them on the transparent decal paper using your inkjet printer. Black letters work best, color inks tend to be washed out on the transparent paper. When the ink dries you spray on a decal bonder (a lacquer I think) and cut the decals out, soak in water for a few seconds and slide them off onto the item. After they dry for a day, just clearcoat over them and you're good. They're not perfect, but since my amp was a complete basketcase I didn't have much to lose. You have to watch out for air under them. It takes some practice and trial and error with printer settings for the best results. Also make sure to print samples on regular paper before you print to the decal paper. That stuff gets expensive if you don't get it right on the first try. If you want to import a logo it says you need to upgrade from the trial software but I was able to scan in the National logo then just copy out of Paint and paste into the decal software and it came out ok. Hope that helps.
    By the way, if anyone needs a good, high-res file of the cursive National logo I have one that I scanned from the original faceplate and cleaned up for this project.
    Dave

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