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| | #1 |
| Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: New York
Posts: 39
| Identify this cap? Hi guys can someone identify this cap for me It says .75p 1.5kv But when I look on Mouser to order it I cant find it. I dont know what the .75p means or what type cap it is. thanks |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: York Pa
Posts: 622
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Looks to me like a 0.75pf 1.5Kv ceramic cap. Unless you've got an amp with over 1kv across this cap, I'd use this one as a replacement: http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDeta...OtS9kLgnIbA%3d
__________________ -Mike |
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| | #3 |
| Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: New York
Posts: 39
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Thanks anyone know what that double triangle symbol means on the board where this cap is. |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Lansing, Michigan, USA
Posts: 10,366
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It is not a cap. Seriously, .75pf would be the capacitance of the traces running to it. It is a transient suppressor, a spark gap if you will. If you had identified the amp or circuit it was in we could look the thing up for you. What is the component designation silk screened on the board by it? I bet it isn't "C" something. Is it shorted? is it actually bad? or do you just want to replace it because you don;t know what it is?
__________________ Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned. |
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| | #5 |
| Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: New York
Posts: 39
|
Whatever it is--there are 2 of them next to the main Filter caps of a CTR Monitor They both have cracks on top--you can see the split in the pic. I'll look on the board to see if it says a C. thanks |
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Lansing, Michigan, USA
Posts: 10,366
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It is not a crack, it is a slit. it is part of the item. What is CTR?
__________________ Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned. |
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| | #7 |
| Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Roanoke, Star City, Virginia
Posts: 43
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My first thought also was a spark gap but the symbol more closely represents a Gunn diode. I'd guess he meant CRT but that's only a guess. And if it is a CRT monitor, that would lean more towards a spark gap than a Gunn diode as I don't believe anything in there should be running at 10GHz or so...
Last edited by icefloe01; 03-03-2009 at 12:31 PM. |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Boscawen, NH
Posts: 212
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dollars to donuts it's in the flyback circuit of a CRT monitor. They are sometimes used as a high voltage bleed off...if the voltage gets above a predetermined level set by the size of the gap on the top, it arcs to ground and discharges off the excess voltage in the flyback circuit...
__________________ Tim Electronic Sound Technologies |
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| | #9 | |
| Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: New York
Posts: 39
| Quote:
Its funny because in many monitor forums they did not know what this part was but I thought since I got great help fixing my amp here I'd post here for identification. Those dingbats had me spinning in circles. Finally I did a crash course in CRT's and found my problem must be the vertical IC or its surrounding caps. I replaced the caps and my picture filled the screen again with no distortion on the bottom. But a few hours later I could see the problem coming back a bit. So I changed the V IC and a cap and it was norm again. Next day it started again--so it seems something is shorting out the vertical section from outside. I replaced the main filter cap(the pic was not the flyvback but the main FC). Anyway I though the part was a cracked cap--but now I know better thanks guys Last edited by alien; 03-04-2009 at 02:11 AM. | |
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Lansing, Michigan, USA
Posts: 10,366
|
I have also worked in the arcade business for many years, and all those arcade games have video monitors runnning 16 hours a day. Big old CRT based monitors. BY FAR most problems are dreid out electrolytic caps. In fact a couple companies sell "Cap Kits" for monitor models. Each is just a collection of the various values used int he circuit. Basically replacing all of them. it solves 90% of the p-roblems. Look at your board. ANy caps with the plastic cover on the cap shrinking back? Replacce them. You replaced as couple caps in the circuit, replace the rest. Don;t forget that little 1uf/50v one behind the V driver heatsink (or whatever). You may have vertical caps spread around too, not all right together. Watch part number series for example. And if it takes warming up to show the symptom, get a can of freeze spray and selectively cool areas to look for a sensitive part. If you freeze a part and the picture snaps back to normal, there you go.
__________________ Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned. |
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