Polishing Covers

[SkinnyWire]

I've been working on polishing bare covers and it works out pretty good, for the most part. I don't have a fancy setup for this - just a corded power drill and a buffing wheel with Mibro 6 high gloss polishing compound.

Mibro High-Gloss Cleaning Compound, Model# 698091 | Polishing Kits | Northern Tool + Equipment

The picture below shows bare, lightly polished, heavily polished covers from left to right. My question here regards the streaks/marks on the highly polished pickup as seen in the upper portion of that cover in the picture. I try not to load too much material on the wheel, and I scrape it between loads. Seems inevitable though that some compound will "stick" to the cover during polishing, which can cause the marks (not the scratch near the right edge/center, but the whitish streaky looking marks). I've found that removing the compound with 90% Isopropyl helps to minimize this "scarring". In fact, the marks that show up in the picture weren't really noticeable to the naked eye without just the right angle of light.

Anyway, just wondering if anyone has any advice for avoiding such markings when polishing bare covers. And for removing the excess compound in general (doesn't respond well to soap/water, better to alcohol)

Different compound?
Lighter pressure?
Special wheel/tools?

Personally, I don't care if they're perfect or not. One good playing session and they're scratched anyway. I'm not a customer though. Another way to put it might be how do you get a high gloss finish with minimal scratch/swirl marks or this sort of thing where the compound sticks and leaves marks.

[jonson]

A bigger diameter wheel would help but if restricted you hit the nail on the head with alcohol (meths uk) is the norm for removing excess compound and finish off on a clean wheel, soft swansdown or soft nonstitched cotton works best.

[Spence]

Originally Posted by jonson

finish off on a clean wheel, soft swansdown or soft nonstitched cottont.

Jeez Jonson, can't you finish off on a handful of Kleenex like the rest of us!

[belwar]

You know, you might try phoning a local plating company or two and ask them if you can come watch them polish something..

Big cotton wheels are the way to go because they load compound differently, and also disipate heat. Not all buffs are created equal either. There are also whole scores of different compounds.. Synthetic polymers, ones made from Animal fat, etc..

I would imagine you want several different buffs, and a couple of different polishes.. Think of them like sanding in reverse... You would try to eliminate 60 grit scratches with 1000 grit sand paper.. You'd start with 120, then go to 240, then 320, etc. When I buff guitars I use 4 different wheels, and four different polishes. Course menzerna, fine menzerna, and two liquid polishes..

I tried polishing some un plated covers and I found the finer wheels did the pitting.

Originally Posted by SkinnyWire

I've been working on polishing bare covers and it works out pretty good, for the most part. I don't have a fancy setup for this - just a corded power drill and a buffing wheel with Mibro 6 high gloss polishing compound.

Mibro High-Gloss Cleaning Compound, Model# 698091 | Polishing Kits | Northern Tool + Equipment

The picture below shows bare, lightly polished, heavily polished covers from left to right. My question here regards the streaks/marks on the highly polished pickup as seen in the upper portion of that cover in the picture. I try not to load too much material on the wheel, and I scrape it between loads. Seems inevitable though that some compound will "stick" to the cover during polishing, which can cause the marks (not the scratch near the right edge/center, but the whitish streaky looking marks). I've found that removing the compound with 90% Isopropyl helps to minimize this "scarring". In fact, the marks that show up in the picture weren't really noticeable to the naked eye without just the right angle of light.

Anyway, just wondering if anyone has any advice for avoiding such markings when polishing bare covers. And for removing the excess compound in general (doesn't respond well to soap/water, better to alcohol)

Different compound?
Lighter pressure?
Special wheel/tools?

Personally, I don't care if they're perfect or not. One good playing session and they're scratched anyway. I'm not a customer though. Another way to put it might be how do you get a high gloss finish with minimal scratch/swirl marks or this sort of thing where the compound sticks and leaves marks.

[jonson]

Something not mentioned yet is speed. If I'm polishing polyester,polyurethane or acrylic then 2500 to 3000 does the job. Metal requires a much faster speed and I run that at 6000rpm. Bit difficult on a drill but you could adapt a motor and shaft system. My covers which are solid nickel are done with spiral stitched hard cotton wheels which are all now as black as your hat, and soft wheel follows to finish.

[jrfrond]

Some cheaper compounds are loaded with wax. I use Menzerna dry block compounds when buffing ANYTHING on a machine, whether is is lacquer, plastic, metal, etc. Very low residue.

[SkinnyWire]

Thanks guys. Some stuff to think about so far. Maybe I need to move up to a bench wheel. I don't mind the "rustic" results with the drill really, but it'd be interesting to see if I could get a mirror finish. The shine has much more depth than plating, IMO.

[Possum]

Harbor Freight has an inexpensive polishing arbor. Thats what I use. I think you are also polishing in the wrong direction. Try polishing with the grain of the cover instead across it. Get the biggest wheel you can. Look at jewelry polishing compounds, Zam, Fabulustre, are high polish finish polishes. Tripoli is a rough compound that removes material. NEVER use different polishing compounds on the same whee. Ammonia will take off the residue, I used an ultrasonic cleaner with a special cleaner when I did jewelry finishing. Attached is a shot from the master cover maker, Holmes's polishing setup....

[Spence]

This is what I use :

Jewellers Polishing Machine And gold/silver kit on eBay (end time 12-Oct-09 16:17:58 BST)

I have different mops for plastic, nickel and gold.


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[Possum]

With the Harbor Freight one its just one speed, you can get the adapters to use with jewelry buffs that will fit over the bolt on ends. Its about half the price if money is an issue. There are more options with jewelry buffs than hardware store type buffs..