Does anyone know where I could find an allen head set screw.. 10-32 thread, but with only half the screw threaded? Im looking for the bottom half to be threaded obviously. Total length 1.125 or 1.25. threaded length 0.5"
Im looking to see if its available out there...
You could cut the head off a hex head or socket head bolt. They sometimes only have the first 3/4" threaded and then straight for a bit.
I googled "threaded pin" and came up with this:
http://www.nzmeccano.com/115.php
I think meccano threads were all 10-24, I used to have a set.
Last edited by David King; 10-02-2009 at 05:53 AM.
known as a shoulder bolt/screw over this side of the pond.
When you say half threaded, do you mean that the unthreaded part is full diameter, with the Allen hex socket in that end? Or do you mean that it's like a normal Allen setscrew, but with half turned down to a smaller diameter?
In either case, you're probably looking at doing a machining operation on a stock screw, or having it made up custom. I don't think you're going to find something like that off the shelf.
Attached is a picture of some special jacking screws that I make up from 1/4"-20 Allen setscrews. The tip is turned down in a lathe. Is this the kind of thing you're thinking about?
Nice job!
http://www.SDpickups.com
Stephens Design Pickups
You can always give these guys a call
Stock Drive Products / Sterling Instrument-Directories
You know I looked, right? I couldn't find anything, so I just used fully threaded set screws.Originally Posted by belwar
If wouldn't be hard to thread some rod, but I don't know how you get the hex hole in the end.
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You need a rotary broach to make the hex hole. The tooling isn't cheap unfortunately.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/SOMMA-ROTARY-BROA...mZ280055746293
I'd stick with a slot if at all possible. If you just need a few, I have a geometric threading die for my lathe which will thread to the same length every time but I'm not set up to do the slot, you'd need a screw machine for that or just a Dremel tool set up in a simple wood fixture that slides each screw into the edge of a cutoff disc.
Matt... There's no reason to do it anyway, unless you are having the whole thing made the same way. Why bother? If the head isn't the same, just go with a regular set screw.
It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
www.sgd-lutherie.com
www.myspace.com/sgdlutherie
www.myspace.com/davidschwab
A slot in a screw for a regular screwdriver is not simply a slot ( a propper one at leats isn't)
a screw slot has a 5 degree taper and matches the profile of a regular screw dirver.
not to say it wouldn't work, or that i've not done that before.
there is a file called a Knife edge file. this is used for cutting or correcting screw slots and can be bought at most tool supply stores for less than $20 for a high quality nicholson brand.
I usualy start the screw slot at 2/3 depth by cutting with a dremel or other tool, then open it up with the knife file.
you will be amazed at the difference.
Ray
If i were to slot a 10-32 screw I would first be sure to NOT use an allen head screw as stock material.
most allen screws are made of a very hard steel alloy that doesn't lend itself to easy hand work.
find a grade 3 bolt. this is hard enough to accept a screw slot and soft enought to hand work.
a grade 5 may work, a grade 8 is too difficult. stay away from stainless steel too, some grades work harden and will cause you much grief.
to cut your slot by hand use a hack saw blade. but not just any blade, make sure the blade does not have a "wavy" tooth offset (look down the teeth, the waves are obvious). find one with a standard offset. use one with at least 24 TPI or more. 32 is best bet as there will be 3 teeth at any time on the screw when you cut.
if you have a disk or belt sander, flatten the tooth offset down on both sides. you only need to sand down an inch or two because you wont want to stroke that far. you won't be needing kerf relief because you wont slot that deep.
cut on the push.
now to hold your screw.
get a propper sized nut, cheaper and softer grades preferred.
start on one of the hex points and cut to the nut center.
deburr the cut on the inside threads with some 80 grit sand paper.
thread the cut nut over the screw an you can now clamp down on the flats that are 90 degrees from the cut and the screw will be held without damage in your vise.
I have a tupper ware bowl full of nuts I've made like this. they are sooooo! handy!
after you cut your slot you can take a piece of 80 grit sand paper and fold it over a piece of card stock to make a make shift knife file.
test fit with a regular screwdriver.
Ray
David S,
You know I think I might go to the work of having those screws made. I'm going to have a couple of people quote it out and see what I come up with. I actually like the idea of using that small 1/16th allen screw.. It gives you lots of mass at the head, and eliminate cover scratching from a flat head. I'd split and order with you if you want some. I'd probably do a small run like 10-20k.
Whats strange is the pickup is all metric, but the screw is imperial!
If I do have a batch made, id want to have the screw analysed to find out the alloy. Could hurt, though its probably standard low carbon steel, possible quick machining steel.
I spend a few minutes tonight drawing the screw.. I imagine this doesnt exist.
David S - Does it look pretty accurate to you? am I missing any details?
Matt
Apparently we don't like leaded steel for pickups? So says Mr Possum.
You can have any grade annealed and then burn some of the carbon out of it for good measure.
Ooh that looks pretty, I'd take a small pile of those off your hands if you decide to go big.
You should try posting that on http://rfqwork.com and see what sorts of bids you get.
Troll.
:>
I'll count you in for screws! It took me FOREVER to figure out how to draw threads... Then I found a clip on youtube.
Yes you have to be careful in buying stock parts, the set screws I looked at are hardened, if you want shrill treble thats the way to go, not me.
http://www.SDpickups.com
Stephens Design Pickups
Matt;
One possibility for making up the part that you have drawn up is to start with a button head socket head cap screw. This will have the small size Allen hex socket, that is smaller than the diameter of the shank. You'd have the OD of the head ground or turned off, bringing it down to the shank diameter. It would also leave the slight dome on the tip that you have shown.
You'd also start with a 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" long screw, and trim off the end to leave the amount of threads that you want. It varies with manufacturer, but generally socket head series machine screws have a maximum of 1" of threads. So, a 1 5/8" screw would typically have 5/8" of straight shank and 1" of threads.
I'm in!
Slot head screws are evil! I use phillips heads on the few humbuckers I make.
I noticed that. I bounce between the two so often these days that I guess I didn't think it was odd. I just switch my caliper between the two and see what's closest to a whole number!Whats strange is the pickup is all metric, but the screw is imperial!
If I do have a batch made, id want to have the screw analysed to find out the alloy. Could hurt, though its probably standard low carbon steel, possible quick machining steel.
Millimeters are very handy.
It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
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That looks good to me!
It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
www.sgd-lutherie.com
www.myspace.com/sgdlutherie
www.myspace.com/davidschwab
im going to pull one of the screw out of the mk iii later today. I dont think they are the sam screw. I think they taper down at the button to something like 1/8
Bel, a photo of that MKIII and/or the screw would be great.
Knowing the alloy and then finding the same alloy could be a longer term proposition.
I like Bruce's dome head screw idea for short term testing without having to commit to 10,000 pcs. The 10-32 dome heads I have here use a 1/8" key which is probably too big a hole for this unfortunately.
No problem. What do you want photos of? Give me a very specific list.
As for the alloy, and locating it.. why do you say that?
The alloy will be analysed in a week & a half, and if its common material, ANY good screw maker will have it. The keepers i'll make my self from whatever steel they are.
Here's the keeper bar. What a pain i nthe ass to draw the threads.
Bel,
I have no idea what a "mark III" is so I'll let it go at that.
Another dumb question:
What's the reason that you need the straight unthreaded section on the screws? Is it just for looks, or is it something else?
How about taking a standard 10-32 Allen head setscrew, turning down the upper portion a bit, and then pressing on a piece of steel tubing?
Set screws are always hardened, by definition. But they are cheap if you buy by the hundred, and anneal them in an oxygen-free atmosphere. The standard trick is to fill a length of black iron pipe with pipe caps at both ends with screws, plus some paper to burn and use all the oxygen. Put the assembly in the furnace until it glows red for a while, allow to cool slowly. The annealed setscrews will be dead soft, and useless as set screws, but perfectly good as polepieces.
Would you still be able to adjust them?
It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
www.sgd-lutherie.com
www.myspace.com/sgdlutherie
www.myspace.com/davidschwab
Yes, the threads will survive undamaged (unless too much oxygen manages to avoid the burning paper). The threads will be softer than 1018 steel, but for height adjustment will be plenty strong enough.
Hardening the setscrew changes the tone of the pickup??? How is that possible? It's the same piece of metal, with the same dimensions and same chemical composition. Are you saying that annealing it will change its magnetic properties?
If you're seeing a difference, it's got to be because you're comparing a hardened screw of one alloy with an unhardened screw of a different alloy.
Bruce,
this may explain what's going on..
Austenite - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
It is possible for sure. Hardened steel makes a better permanent magnet than the same steel alloy when annealed.
Well, we can directly test this.If you're seeing a difference, it's got to be because you're comparing a hardened screw of one alloy with an unhardened screw of a different alloy.
There is no reason, except he wants to get a close as possible I guess. I just went with 10-32 Allen head set screws for my version.
The custom poles do look cool though.
It would be possible to describe everything scientifically, but it would make no sense; it would be without meaning, as if you described a Beethoven symphony as a variation of wave pressure. — Albert Einstein
www.sgd-lutherie.com
www.myspace.com/sgdlutherie
www.myspace.com/davidschwab
I wish I had a Wal with these pickups in it to play around on. My favorite Wal sounds came from XTC's Collin Moulding's fretless on albums like English Settlement. (I wish those guys would get over their shit and get it together again.)
Well there is a good chance i'll be drving north at the end of october. I was going to bring the MKI to Canada with me so I could send it back to its owner. I usually stay in roseberg, but if you want to fiddle around with it, and put me up for a night, i'll bring it by. Plus id love to see your shop.
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