TS-9 TrueBypass how to?

[kylendm]

Hey, i'm new to this forum but i'm hoping you guys can help me out.

I was wondering if there was a tutorial or schematic on a making the TS-9 True Bypass. I also feel that the pedal is a bit muddy but it also needs some more low end. Could anyone help me out here

Or if it is confidential you can email me at kylendm @comcast.net

[Mark Hammer]

The lack of low end is the nature of the TS-9. It is the deliberate trimming of the bottom prior to clipping that results in a smoother clipping across the overall fretboard.

Take a read through the "technology of the Tube Screamer" document at New Page 1 to get a better sense of what you can change to get your desired tone.

As for true-bypass, it may deliver less than what you seek.

[GibsonLover]

True bypass may provide less than what you seek, but more of what you want. That is, sonically, there may be no gain, but if it's not a vintage pedal, I say why not rehouse it. That comment comes after looking at my Nobles ODR-1 schematic. It sounds great, but has VERY cheap jacks. If one omits the external switch feature, re-mount all jacks and switches to the housing, and convert to true bypass, I counted 38 components that can be removed from the PC board. Big deal right? Well, look at the pedal in bypass: On the ODR-1 or BD-2 there are FET's, opamps, resistors, and 4 capacitors, 3 of them electrolytics (for ODR-1; all 4 for BD-2) all in series with the signal. Would anybody design a buffer that way? That's what DIY is all about.
Sorry I can't answer your question directly, but I came across that issue myself with the ODR-1 last weekend. The board components are labeled, so identification is easy. You will need to follow a good schematic carefully for the TS-9, as I do not remember the components being identified on the PCB. I could be wrong. I intend to document my ODR-1 project when I get to it, if that helps anyone.

[kylendm]

Can you guys recommend me some capacitors from this site?
Effects Connection Online Store

Such as what capacitors are good quality vs lower quality

I'm going for a .1uF to increase the bass a little bit.

I've always heard good things about silver micas but all their ratings are pf which is a lot smaller than uF if I'm not mistaken.

I have a cart full of stuff so I'd figure I'd get the rest from here so it gets here all at one time.

Thanks, Kyle

[Mark Hammer]

I hasten to remind you, this is a distortion pedal, not a voice mic preamp to record wildlife samples. It is processing one signal with limited bandwidth, not mixing down 20 input signals with bandwidth extending from 20hz-20khz.

Cap type CAN matter, to be sure, but in this instance not enough to really matter. Get the caps that a) fit the space, b) meet the required voltage rating, c) are cheapest and available immediately, and d) have the intended measured value.

[GibsonLover]

Any Film or poly cap that fits is high enough quality. For low pF value ceramic capacitors, use the silver mica. You may not notice the difference in sound, but silver mica have a tighter tolerance than ceramics. A common tolerance range for ceramic caps is +80%/-20%. Silver mica is commonly 5-10%. If you notice a difference in sound replacing one, it may well be that the ceramic was in the +80% range, and effectively a different value than what you'd replace it with. Socket your IC's too. The op amps used in FX pedals have common pinouts, and different IC's are easy to pop in. I was surprised in the difference it made with my first clone may, many years ago, so I still use sockets.

[HTH]

I've found that cap types DO make a difference, but the more expensive 'hi-fi' caps are typically too transparent with more top end than some cheaper caps (used in OD circuits).

I personally think that you can't beat those green mylar caps - I use them in all OD pedals.

If you want to hear the difference in cap types, get a 6-way rotary switch and hook up six caps of varying compositions - there IS a difference and its clearly audible.