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Old 11-03-2009, 01:27 AM   #1
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Best High Current Connector

It seems that there are quite a few newer amps that have issues with connectors that can't handle the current going through them. This has got my wondering if there exists a type of connector that is superior for handling higher current connections or if one should always just use hard wired connections for high current wires.

Any opinions or best practices that you follow?
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:59 AM   #2
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Specify "high current" and where it's used in an amp? Are you talking a string of KT-88s/EL-34s that'll pull 10A of heater current or a mains connection that'll see 5A or...?

I made up some 2/0 ground straps for work today that will probably see 400A at peak; the cabling for our welding torch is easily 5/8" diameter. So high current is, well, relative, and so are the connections. I can only use eyelets and bolts for the stuff at work, anything else is suspect. Something tells me though that's not really the answer you're looking for.
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:56 AM   #3
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The problem is when they se a connector rated for 5A and decide to run 5A through it all day. I see aq red-line on my car tachometer too, but I don't see it as an invitation to drive all over with teh engine revved that high.

One simple solution is higher current Molex pins. Most of these inline connectors are in the KK156 series. The little springy pin bears on one side of the male pin. Molex makes a type pin called the "trifurcon" pin. It is like the basic one, but has also little springy wings on the sides. SO it grips the male pin on three sides. A connector fill of those is substantially tighter to insert and remove, but they handle larger currents, or they handle the same currents with larger contact area.

We used to have trouble with those Molex's burning up in another industry. Trifurcons solved the problem. I now use them to make cable ends in amps to solve similar burning molex problems.
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:36 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enzo View Post

We used to have trouble with those Molex's burning up in another industry. Trifurcons solved the problem. I now use them to make cable ends in amps to solve similar burning molex problems.
Can you use the Trifurcon connectors with the existing male pins on the PCB, or do you change out the whole thing? Thanks, that's the kind of thing I was wondering about.
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:32 AM   #5
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The trifurcon pins fit in the same housings for use on the same male pins. The only difference is that they bear against the sides of the male pin as well as the one face the regular pins use. You can extract the normal pin from the female housing, crimp on a trifurcon in its place and shove it back into the hole.

Trifurcon pin, not the extra little side flags.
MOLEX - - 3.96mm (.156") Pitch KK® Crimp Terminal - 6838 / 7258 / 6438

Upper right, both regular and trifurcon pins for same KK156 housings.
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/1178.pdf


Here is more than you want to know about such connectors:
Pinball: Molex Connectors and Terminal Pin Crimping Explained
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:18 AM   #6
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There are also the 4-way connectors used for power on hard disks and CD drives (also made by Molex) and then a whole host of industrial connectors, all the way up to the 600 amp Anderson Powerpoles, which are used for things like jump starting trucks.

I like to build tube amps on two chassis, the one with the tubes on it being rubber mounted to absorb shock and vibration. Last time, I used an ITT Trident connector to plug the two chassis together. This is a big badass thing with gold-plated pins rated at something like 13 amps. The Ninja-Deluxe
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Old 11-03-2009, 02:24 PM   #7
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Bunch of old Seeburg juke boxes from the tube era had two large chassis in them, one was hte amplifier, the other the control unit. They plugged together to share power with mating large Jones plugs




yeah, there are tons of high current connectors. I am not married to the trifurcons or anything, but when there is an existing Molex, they are a simple current upgrade.
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Old 11-03-2009, 03:48 PM   #8
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Thanks, guys! Good information.
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Old 11-03-2009, 06:14 PM   #9
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Anderson Power Products "PowerPole" are great. I had a project that I was going to use them for that had separate control/power sections. I never built it though.
Standard Powerpole Family
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enzo View Post
Here is more than you want to know about such connectors:
Pinball: Molex Connectors and Terminal Pin Crimping Explained
This caught my eye:

Quote:
The style of Panduit and Molex connectors used in pinball generally have a 25 "cycle" life span (a "cycle" is one removal and re-installation of a connector). And frankly, after as few as five cycles, there could be problems because of the high vibration pinball environment, the reduced terminal pin tension, and the age of many games.
I would guess that guitar/bass amps are subjected to a similar amount of vibration as pinball machines.
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Old 11-03-2009, 08:59 PM   #11
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Anderson Power Products "PowerPole" are great. I had a project that I was going to use them for that had separate control/power sections. I never built it though.
Standard Powerpole Family
Interesting connector. It looks like their smallest connector is rated at 15 amps. What were you building?
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Old 11-03-2009, 09:07 PM   #12
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There are also the 4-way connectors used for power on hard disks and CD drives (also made by Molex)
That's what I think of as a "Molex" connector. That would probably be a good choice since they are so plentiful. I'll have to see what they rate them for current & voltage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Conner View Post
I like to build tube amps on two chassis, the one with the tubes on it being rubber mounted to absorb shock and vibration. Last time, I used an ITT Trident connector to plug the two chassis together. This is a big badass thing with gold-plated pins rated at something like 13 amps. The Ninja-Deluxe
Now, THAT'S a serious connector.
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:04 PM   #13
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Yeah, those little connectors by APP are a "wiping" type that clean themselves when cycled and are rated at 600v. I was going to build a combo with the Pre-amp and controls up top and have the PSU and P-P section on the bottom of the cab. Using a cable with connectors to mate them. I like the idea of having the weight on the bottom of a single speaker combo, just seems top heavy otherwise.
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:41 PM   #14
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I had this type on a foot pedal for a solid state amp I had while in college. I loved the amp (forget what it was) but hated the connector. As the amp aged the pins all became loose and had trouble aligning every time I tried to plug it in.
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