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Old 03-01-2007, 09:38 PM   #1
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FYI GJUSA temporarily out of 53mm baseplates

Just a heads up for everybody. Put in an order this morning and he's still waiting on them.
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Old 03-01-2007, 11:30 PM   #2
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Thats a shame...I've been waiting on the 50mm low profile baseplates. Been on backorder for about 2 months! Any ideas of another supplier?!? I can get the "vintage" long leg from Stew-Mac or AllParts but I can't find any low profile nickel-silver anywhere. I just ran out and REALLY hate to use the brass ones that I bought by mistake a couple of months ago.

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Old 03-01-2007, 11:32 PM   #3
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Im with ya Stan. I need to find those as well. I was really hoping to make some Fspaced hb's this weekend. Oh well, looks like it will have to wait. I wonder if Andrew at Tonerider has nickel silver baseplates with short legs...
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:29 AM   #4
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WHy not cut the legs to lenght, rebend and drill and tap a hole? You can get a bender really cheap too.
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Old 03-03-2007, 10:34 AM   #5
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You don't even need a real bender. I use my bench vice and an old door hinge to support the peice and keep things square. Works great and looks factory done.
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Old 03-03-2007, 11:52 AM   #6
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factory done?

How are you punching the hole before you tap? If you look at any good humbucker cover you'll notice its not just drilled and tapped, its punched then tapped, the punching extrudes more meal for tapping give you more thread for the heigh adjustment screw to grab into. Just drilling a hole and tapping it isn't the same thing.
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Old 03-03-2007, 12:15 PM   #7
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I drilled a hole is some steel to use as a die and I use a pin punch to make the hole in the bassplate. When I said it looks professional I meant the bend, not the hole. The hole does look clean enough though. When I get my camera working I’ll show you.
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Old 03-03-2007, 06:21 PM   #8
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Thats too little to worry about! Drill the hole small, and get a good material threader. I'm sure that pin punch works just fine, but realistically isn't totally nessesary. Punched or drilled.....Its the same purpose. As long as it looks professionally done. Heads up to.....Thats the first step to making your own parts. Nicely done
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Old 03-04-2007, 12:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Walker View Post
Im with ya Stan. I need to find those as well. I was really hoping to make some Fspaced hb's this weekend. Oh well, looks like it will have to wait. I wonder if Andrew at Tonerider has nickel silver baseplates with short legs...
Yes, he does - Stan you have got mail. No 53mm or F-spaced bucker parts yet, unfortunately.
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Old 03-04-2007, 11:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Possum View Post
How are you punching the hole before you tap? If you look at any good humbucker cover you'll notice it's not just drilled and tapped, it's punched then tapped; the punching extrudes more meal for tapping give you more thread for the height adjustment screw to grab into. Just drilling a hole and tapping it isn't the same thing.
I haven't seen this, but from your description it sounds like the hole is pierced, rather than punched. In piercing, an undersize hole is first punched (or drilled), and then a larger bullet-pointed steel punch is forced through the sheet, causing the sheet material to be extruded and drawn into the oversize die cavity. The net effect is to produce a short bit of tubing perpendicular to the sheet from which it was pierced. This tubing is then threaded to accept a machine screw.
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Old 03-05-2007, 02:15 AM   #11
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makes sense....

yeah this is completely different from just drilling and tapping a hole, it gives more stability and pretty much all humbucker baseplates are made this way, there is a reason they are done that way.....
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Old 03-05-2007, 05:22 AM   #12
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JUst out of urgency , drilling and tapping will work as a last resort. I completely understand the tubing. I have done the drilling and taspping for my own instruments, but as far as sending it out the door......that would be a warrentee hazard
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