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| | #1 |
| Member Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 41
| FYI GJUSA temporarily out of 53mm baseplates
Just a heads up for everybody. Put in an order this morning and he's still waiting on them.
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Sunny South Florida, USA
Posts: 343
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Thats a shame...I've been waiting on the 50mm low profile baseplates. Been on backorder for about 2 months! Any ideas of another supplier?!? I can get the "vintage" long leg from Stew-Mac or AllParts but I can't find any low profile nickel-silver anywhere. I just ran out and REALLY hate to use the brass ones that I bought by mistake a couple of months ago. Stan |
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| | #3 |
| Member Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 41
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Im with ya Stan. I need to find those as well. I was really hoping to make some Fspaced hb's this weekend. Oh well, looks like it will have to wait. I wonder if Andrew at Tonerider has nickel silver baseplates with short legs...
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 1,070
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WHy not cut the legs to lenght, rebend and drill and tap a hole? You can get a bender really cheap too.
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Mid Wales
Posts: 307
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You don't even need a real bender. I use my bench vice and an old door hinge to support the peice and keep things square. Works great and looks factory done.
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| | #6 |
| Old Timer Join Date: May 2006 Location: Planet Mongo in the country of PAF
Posts: 3,096
| factory done?
How are you punching the hole before you tap? If you look at any good humbucker cover you'll notice its not just drilled and tapped, its punched then tapped, the punching extrudes more meal for tapping give you more thread for the heigh adjustment screw to grab into. Just drilling a hole and tapping it isn't the same thing.
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Mid Wales
Posts: 307
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I drilled a hole is some steel to use as a die and I use a pin punch to make the hole in the bassplate. When I said it looks professional I meant the bend, not the hole. The hole does look clean enough though. When I get my camera working I’ll show you.
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 1,070
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Thats too little to worry about! Drill the hole small, and get a good material threader. I'm sure that pin punch works just fine, but realistically isn't totally nessesary. Punched or drilled.....Its the same purpose. As long as it looks professionally done. Heads up to.....Thats the first step to making your own parts. Nicely done
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| | #9 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 16
| Yes, he does - Stan you have got mail. No 53mm or F-spaced bucker parts yet, unfortunately.
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| | #10 | |
| Old Timer Join Date: May 2006 Location: Boston, MA area
Posts: 1,293
| Quote:
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| | #11 |
| Old Timer Join Date: May 2006 Location: Planet Mongo in the country of PAF
Posts: 3,096
| makes sense....
yeah this is completely different from just drilling and tapping a hole, it gives more stability and pretty much all humbucker baseplates are made this way, there is a reason they are done that way.....
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| | #12 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 1,070
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JUst out of urgency , drilling and tapping will work as a last resort. I completely understand the tubing. I have done the drilling and taspping for my own instruments, but as far as sending it out the door......that would be a warrentee hazard
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