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| | #1 |
| Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 29
| JTM45 cascading gain "one-wire" mod
Can anyone explain to me how to do the one-wire mod to cascade the channels on a JTM 45? Preferably using the Ceriatone layout as a base.
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: California, USA
Posts: 676
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Larry, I don't have a direct answer for you but here is an interesting link that I saved. If you start there and follow the various links posted on the site, you may find the information you need. http://raw-sewage.net/jtm45ri_mods.html Tom |
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| | #3 |
| Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 29
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Thanks Tom. I do have the reference hand drawn schematic (for the mod) but it is barely readable. I'm sure I'll figure it out, and when I do I'll take photos and post them!
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 717
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| | #5 |
| Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 29
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Yep, that's the reference I already have, thanks...
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: California, USA
Posts: 676
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OK. Now I see what you are trying to do. It's a bit more than just adding one wire. The Mod makes sense to me. If you want that insane gain that is. Are you saying that you are not familiar with working from a schematic? Tom |
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| | #7 |
| Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 29
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No, it's just that all the writing on the mod schem is blurry. Ok, so using the Ceriatone layout (cause it''s easy to read) I think I need to do this: 1. Unsolder the lead going to pin 7 of V1 2. Separate the 2 270k resistors (schem shows 470k) leaving the rightmost (Normal channel) still going to pin 2 of V2 3. Ground the 500pF capacitor (schem shows 220pF) that is across the leftmost 270k resistor 4. Solder a wire from the leftmost 270k resistor going to pin 7 of V1 Sound right? |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: California, USA
Posts: 676
| I don’t have the Ceriatone layout so it’s hard to comment accurately. The lefts & rights seem to be different and I think that the cap should be left open rather than grounded. You need to be careful when looping back the wire after the first gain stage. Probably best to use a shielded cable with only one end of the shield grounded. |
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| | #9 |
| Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 29
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Here is the Ceriatone layout.
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: California, USA
Posts: 676
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Do you have a clean scematic from Ceriatone? That's the best way my brain follows signal flow. |
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| | #11 |
| Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 29
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Ceriatone doesn't use schematics. I was just using the JTM45 reissue and original as references.
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| | #12 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: California, USA
Posts: 676
| Larry, I think you have it figured out. I marked up your directions with my comments as I thought it through. My comments are shown in red below. All references are based on the Ceriatone layout. No guarantees but I think this is correct. 1. Unsolder the lead going to pin 7 of V1. (This disconnects the bright input jacks) 2. Separate the 2 270k resistors (schem shows 470k) leaving the rightmost Normal channel, ( The resistor without the capacitor in parallel ) still going to pin 2 of V2. 3. Remove the 500pF capacitor (schem shows 220pF) that is across the leftmost 270k resistor (The one wire mod instructions show this cap disconnected and left hanging. This makes for easy reversal of the mod and makes sure that an original vintage part is not lost. However, since you are working with a Ceriatone, I say just take the cap out for a cleaner mod result) 4. Solder a wire from the leftmost 270k resistor going to pin 7 of V1 Regards, Tom |
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| | #13 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Southern french alps, right by the Italian border
Posts: 752
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You're talking about something like this? |
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