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Reply With Quotewhat section you need?
Anybody have the service manual and/or the schematic for Mackie's 24.8 console?
thx,
what section you need?
I need the channel section.
Did you try contacting Loud Technologies?
All that they ask is a serial# & a disclaimer returned by email.
Here you go,
Use 7zip or WinRAR to extract
If Loud Tech is no help, or at least just to get you started:
Hello all!
first post on this forum... so interesting... I've found what to read next months..
I went here googling for 24-8 schematics, I have a strange defect on my consolle, sometimes right channel goes away from master LR but also from all busses.
Loudtech was not so kind (probably because it was near christmass).
could anybody help me with schematics of master section and power supply?
thank you in advance.
Ale
Merry Christmas.
Fantastic!
many thanks Jazz P Bass, does anyone has also the layout of master section?
But there is the chance to download all the schematics and layout, just for future reference...
These (along with the previously posted files) bring us closer to the complete set:
And these wrap up the entirety I believe:
Hey Thank you!
This is great, all the schematics!
i need these schems too but i get sent to a blank page are the no longer there
There seems to be something going on at the forum server, a lot of posted pdf files are not opening now.
Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
But until we get that working right, get your serial numbher, and contact Loud Technologies (owner of Mackie) and ask for the drawings. They will probably ask you to agree not to post them online. But at least you will have them.
Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
Thank You Enzo
My problem with this 24 x 8 mackie i just bought is aux 1 and 3 work part of the time they seem to drop the signal down to almost nothing and a loud spike will bring them back but they soon drop out again i talked to a engineer that has seen this problem in other mackie mixers he tells me that the cause is a 72 cent op amp chip i need to find out what the chips # is so i can try to repair this has anyone run into this i only paid 400 for this mixer so i dont want to take it back i can not find another mixer of this caliber for this price
Thanks
Your guy may be right, but I'd have to say I doubt it. Most op amps are not intermittant. The solder under them might be cracked, but that isn't the part's fault. And if it is a solder problem, replacing the part will surely cure it, but so would simply resoldering the old one. Not only that, but to change the IC, you have to take the board out, and doing that refreshes all the ribbons, see below. In other words, in my theory, it is not the IC that was bad, it was the act of changing it that restored operation.
My experience with mixers in general and Mackies in particular leads me to suspect three things first.
First is ribbon cables. I forget the innards of this one, but so many Mackie mixers make subassembly boards, then connect them together with wide ribbon cables. The ribbon connectors fail. (They get oxidized or electrically dirty) Usually pulling the ribbon connector off the header and then pushing it back on cleans the contacts and refreshes them. And you need no schematic for that, just pull each ribbon half way off and push it back down. And don;t skip the inconvenient ones.
second is insert jacks. Might not apply to your specific trouble, but each channel has one and often the outputs upper right corner have them. They get dirty and lose contact. Usually a spray of contact cleaner into the jack and poke a plug in and out a few time to spread it around solves this.
third is push switches. The little push switches than everyone uses for things like channel assign, pre/post assign, mute, PFL, whatever. I find they often get dirty. I also find that if I take a breath, sit down with pliers, and pop all the caps off them, I can then go down the row and squirt cleaner into each, then push it a few times. The little square posts have enough space around them that a squirt of Deoxit will get inside. Try just poking each switch on the channel sending to your bad aux and see if any wake up. I see 15 buttons per channel
SLiders are also a major source of trouble, but they affect the main outs, not specific aux sends. At least mostly.
Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
Thank you again i have spent the last 4 hours with contact cleaner so i am reasonably sure its not a dirty pot or switch however you may be right on the ribbon thing or the insert so i will run those in the morning i have not pulled it apart yet so i have a plan of attack now
Mackie has a series of ribbon cables that were required to be changed as a set under warranty years ago when the 8 bus came out. The boards are very reliable otherwise and once a year cleaning the normalizing jacks: any inserts. Be sure not to use Contact Cleaner but a deoxidizer. Solvents labeled as contact cleaner are often the exact opposite of what is needed. Be sure it says Deoxidizer on the label. The most common is the Craig Laboratories De-Oxit in various flavors. In Europe, Cramolin R-5 or CRC 60. Don't squirt into the shafts of pots, it washes the lube out and the pot loses its smooth feel. There are pot lubes but none are effective in returning the smooth damped feel of the original pot.
The odds of the engineer being right about an IC are possibly 1 in 1,000,000 with that symptom and if that is his first guess, save yourself a lot of trouble in the future and not ask him for technical advice or hire him to engineer a project for you. He is clueless or trying to deceive you, either one is bad. If the drop out was a channel, sub or main, look for the oxidized insert TRS jack to be cleaning or the ribbon cable. If the cable set is original and it is an early serial number, order the replacement cable set and change everything. You could repair a cable if you identify the culprit by cutting off the connector and crimping on another connector on the end that is flaky, but eventually more than one cable will need to be repaired due to intermittent cable header connectors.
$400 is a good price for the board, it will last forever.
Good point. When I say contact cleaner, I have in my mind my can of Deoxit, But i really should be more precise.
Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
Thank You guys i did the cable thing and it fixed aux 1 aux 3 is still having the same problem i suspect you guys are right and the cables need replace so i have won the first battle but still fighting the war
Thanks Guys
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