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Thread: DDX3216 repair

  1. #36
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    Has anyone got the DDX3216 File Exchange program working on Windows 8?

    When I start it it does not show anything except an entry in the task bar - no window is showing.
    I have unblocked the zip it came in and played around with the compatibility settings (Windows XP SP3) and start it as admin but still no show.

    Did anybody fix this?

    EDIT: I have a 4k screen and had to select "Disable display scaling on high DPI settings"

  2. #37
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    So with all ribbon cable disconnected from the CPU board (just the LCD and power connected) I still get the Invalid Program error message.
    I also tried the reset (when the ribbon cables were connected) but that does not seem to do anything. Could be that the CPU does not see the buttons...?

  3. #38
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    As i have said before .....you are wasting your time ,and mine ,most politely
    The ddx file exchange will "Not work" unless you have a fully working Mixer.
    Have you flashed the OS EPROM IC19 with the file i gave you. ?

    "With all ribbons disconnected from the CPU board (display connected) the display should then Display DDX3216 , followed by bars and then blank."

    This is the correct sequence for a functional DDX.
    Until you get this far ,if you do ? the desk will not function.
    Advice from someone who has spent many hours repairing them.
    Good luck
    Last edited by S2udio; 05-05-2015 at 05:21 PM.

  4. #39
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    Ddx3216 doesn't respond to automation though time code is present.

    Greetings,
    This is my first time attempting to post a message, but so far have only found my way to replying to a prior message,etc.
    The current issues being presented are as follows:

    Pre amp input indicators showing intermittently. This is reflected in the level leds on each channel, even though the channels are set to the adat modules and not analog input.

    Mixer not responding to automation, It shows locked and the incoming time code is visible on the screen, but no fader moves are recorded and the rec ready leds don't change when moving the fader during a pass,etc.

    ANY help would be appreciated.I have several DDX3216's here now.
    Thanks

  5. #40
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    After leaving the repair in the corner for more than a year I stumbled upon another version of the binary dump files here. I tried them and they worked!

    I have (re)flashed U15-U18 successfully. When I wanted to reflash U19 my programmer issued a current limit warning and wouldn't flash it. I just left U19 as it was and it worked. Not sure what went on there.

    I am still testing the mixer (I am not familiar with it, so I'm actually reading the manual ) but it looks like it is fully working now.

  6. #41
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    So I seem to have a problem with the PSU - the +/-8 volts are not working. This causes the fader-motors to not-work and the fader calibration to fail.

    That lead me back to the primary side of that part of the PSU (first page of the PSU schematic - which seems to be missing a piece). I do not see any voltage on the primary side of the transformer. I checked the second 'channel' and it had almost 400 volts there. So clearly 'it aint pumping'.

    Lifted one leg of the zener ZD1 and that measures 500mV (and 780 ohm) reverse and 280mV (and 530 ohm) forward voltage using the diode test mode on my DMM. I am not entirley sure how to test zener diodes with a DMM but I think this one is shot.

    Question then arises what specs to look for in a replacement? A 20V zener is easy to find, but how much current (mW?) will it need to be able to cope with? (and then times two - just to be sure) Any ideas?

  7. #42
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    The zener should measure like a regular diode on your meter. If it's not open (or high reading) when reverse biased, it's bad.
    Don't double up on current, it may not regulate properly. Try to figure out the mW rating by physical size or specs. Can you read a number off the diode?
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Thomas View Post
    In my ideal world, I'm not too loud - your room is too small!

  8. #43
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    It's a small glass one...

    I think I'll order a couple (they're not expensive) and try them out...?
    I just don't want the PSU to overload or something because the primary is driven wrong... I am not a switching-PSU expert, I only sort of know how it works...

  9. #44
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    Right, the print on the glass zener was turned towards the PCB, so once I removed it completely I saw it was a 1N4747A - 20V 1W one.
    So my guess for a 20V 1.3W zener was pretty good and it made the PSU work again, but I think I'll replace it with the original anyways.

    Wow, I am actually amazed I figured this one out first try.

    I hope this concludes the repair on this one - back to testing the unit.
    g1 likes this.

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