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Thread: First tube amp build: Fender Deluxe AB763 style amp (no reverb).

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    First tube amp build: Fender Deluxe AB763 style amp (no reverb).

    Fender-Deluxe-AB763-Schematic.pdf

    I chose this style amp, since its 22 watts, I can use it for practice at reasonable volumes, and if I crank it up so that it starts to clip, it won't be way too loud, like a Twin. Also, its a reasonably simple circuit, esp without the reverb, compared to the newer, bigger amps, and all of the components seem to be available. Also, its still fairly flexible, the chassis could be put into a head style cabinet, or a combo cab, and its able to push 2 x 12's.

    Some background: Im a software engineer, I don't have any electrical engineering background, but I have picked up a little over the years. One of my goals is to learn more of the real electrical engineering background of electric circuits, and learn to use an oscilloscope, and a volt meter effectively, and be able to diagnose and problems in tube amps.

    I don't have the skills or the equipment to build a 'scratch' amp, e.g. making a chassis from sheet metal, and a cabinet from wood planks, so I will find a source for the major components. But I want to learn how to make a bill of materials, how to find parts sources, so I didn't want to go with a 'bag of parts' type kit, even though there are some really good ones out there.

    Since I don't have, yet, the engineering chops to make changes to the stock AB763 circuit without, say, inadvertently wiring up an out of audible frequency oscillator that could oscillate the expensive transformers to death, which as I browse the blogs seems fairly easy to do, I will try to build the circuit to as close to stock values as possible, and learn along the way what the major components control.

    As I was getting started, before I found this awesome blog, I was naive to think that I would be able to make a few google/bing clicks and find a complete BOM with all of the parts sources, and I could start ordering parts right away! Oh well, that dream ended quickly. So, part of what this mini project will do is collect as complete a bill of materials as possible, with a few sources for the best price for major components. Im not endorsing, or have any affiliation with any parts vendor or manufacturer, I would just like to make it easier for someone else who wants to make one of these amps to get there a little faster.

    And, thanks to all the people at music-electronics-forum, first for making this site, and second for all the members great comments and questions to my very basic questions!

    So, here goes...

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    Supporting Member eschertron's Avatar
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    As a relative newcomer myself, I started ordering the transformers from Hammond. A few projects later, I'm still happy with the products. Not over-hyped and -priced, plus they have a list of equivalent replacement transformers for many common amps, surely including the Deluxe. Good luck! I'm sure you will have fun with the project.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Conner View Post
    If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken.

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    An easy way to come up with a BOM would be to print the schematic and label each component with a letter and number... R1, R2, C1, C2, etc. When you assign it a number, make a note of it in a spreadsheet. For ease of ordering later, make sure to also note anything special about it. "Label | Value | Notes" or something like that. Once you've entered it in your spreadsheet, highlight it on the schematic you've printed out.

    I suggest using a spreadsheet because later on when you go to order you can sort the list by the value column and quickly see that you need, say, sixteen 1-meg resistors. I'll typically add a couple columns for, say, "Vendor," and "Vendor Part #" which helps greatly to have in advance. Even though it happens to me every time, it seems I'm never fully prepared for a Mouser order and within 5 minutes of ordering parts I'll remember at least a dozen 5-cent parts that I need. Also with vendor information included, you can make nifty pivot tables.

    For capacitors, make sure to get at least the same voltage rating, or better. A lot of coupling caps are rated to withstand 630V - this is fine.
    For resistors, make sure to get at least the same wattage (power) rating, or better. If the schematic calls for a 1/2-W resistor, a 1W or 2W will also work just fine.

    Also don't forget that you're going to need jacks, sockets, tubes, the tremolo optoisolator "bug", transformers, knobs, a footswitch, wire... all that stuff.

    For vendors of general electronic components, I tend to use Mouser. It can be tricky learning how to navigate their site, but once you get the hang of it, it goes quickly. One nice thing about Mouser is that they include the value in the part number, so once you find a resistor you like in 220k, you can just replace the "220k" in the part number with "100k" and get the same resistor in a different value.

    You're probably going to need to use multiple vendors though, and someone like Antique Electronic Supply is a decent place to start.

    Building a clone amp is a balance of frustration versus cost. Or any amp, really; but with a clone you have the option of a fully compiled kit with all the parts and maybe even instructions. Simple to order, but higher cost. On the other end, you can spend hours hunting down each and every little part, and while your hair might fall out, at least you saved some money.

    For a first build, you might want to save your "frustration budget" for actually building the thing. I'd recommend building a Champ kit, because they're great and quite simple. Or buy a little 5W tube amp (there are a bunch out there) and experiment on it. Oh yeah, look up the "AX84 P1 Theory Document" - that's a good start on learning what does what.
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    Every time I think "OK this is the complete list", I find another part. Getting close now, I think.

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    Chassis

    Found a pretty good chassis, on ebay from seller zachmdhunter .

    s-l1600.jpg

    It has a faceplate and shipping is included in the price, 65.00. I sent them a bunch of emails inquiring about dimensions and hole diameters. So far, sure that standard switchcraft jacks, CTS pots, and carling toggle switches, and standard fender style tube sockests fit in the respective holes. Also, contacted Hammond about their 291BX will fit the transformer hole without modification.

    From Hammond:
    re their P291BX transformer:
    Along the “A” dimension of the transformer the cap dimension is 1.9” and along the “C” dimension it is 2.5”. Please keep in mind that the cutout should be a bit bigger (about 0.125”) to allow for clearance.


    From zachmdhunter about this chassis:
    All the holes on the front except the pilot light are 3/8- .385 in diameter- The pilot is .70 inch
    8 pin tube hole: 1 3/16 with mounting holes- 1 1/4
    9 pin tube hole: 3/4 hole w/ 1 1/8 mount holes.
    The dimensions of the box is 22 1/4 X 7 X 1 3/4 .
    The transformer hole is 2 5/8 X 1 15/16 and the holes are 2 7/8 X 2 5/16 on center. ( 2.625 x 1.9375

    A bunch of other suppliers here and there. Mojotone, TubeAmpDoctor in Germany, etc. This one seems to be the best for the price, has a face plate, shipping included.

    Has anyone bought from these guys store?
    Last edited by mikepukmel; 03-25-2017 at 07:19 PM.

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    Old Timer Leo_Gnardo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikepukmel View Post
    A bunch of other suppliers here and there. Mojotone, TubeAmpDoctor in Germany, etc. This one seems to be the best for the price, has a face plate, shipping included.

    Has anyone bought from these guys store?
    TAD, it must cost some $$$ to ship in a chassis from Germany. One of my crustomers found a bargain Princeton chassis in Thailand, cost as much to ship as the chassis. Like I say, shippin' will kill ya.

    No experience with zach. Looks a good 'un though, faceplate and shipping included, hard to go wrong.

    Not planning a reverb? Stick a mid control in that hole.
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    Deluxe Transformers

    Found these from Hammond
    Hammond Mfg. - Tube Guitar Amplifier Transformers & Chokes - INDEX

    291BX Power
    1760H Output
    194A Choke

    The full set from Mouser is

    $169.30
    which includes shipping.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
    TAD, it must cost some $$$ to ship in a chassis from Germany. One of my crustomers found a bargain Princeton chassis in Thailand, cost as much to ship as the chassis. Like I say, shippin' will kill ya.

    No experience with zach. Looks a good 'un though, faceplate and shipping included, hard to go wrong.

    Not planning a reverb? Stick a mid control in that hole.
    Re shipping, it wasn't as scary as I thought. I can't remember now, but something like 20% of the chassis price. Their chassis came in around 100.00.

    Ohh, thanks for the tip re putting a mid control in the reverb hole! I was trying to figure out how to plug it, mid would be nice.
    Yeah, no reverb on this one, but zach doesn't make a non reverb chassis, so ... not a bad alternative. One other vendor did make a non reverb black face stylechassis but without plate was a lot more $$$.

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    Similar chassis from Tube Amp Doctor:

    50.86 chassis
    31.06 ship
    ---------------
    81.92

    but that doesn't include a faceplate, and their face plates are something like 30.00+ shipping. so around 130.00. About double the one from zachmdhunter's store.

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    If you live in the north eastern USA,

    Head cabs & combo cabs

    makes cabinets. The cheapest combo style fender cab, with no finishing (corners, tolex, handles), is about 160 + 30.00 shipping.

    I found his site from robrobinette.com, where he talks about his 5E3 proluxe build. (cabinet looks AWESOME).


    https://robrobinette.com/AmpBuild.htm

  11. #11
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    Some cab discussion here:
    Rawcabs!
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    Certified Dotard

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    Supporting Member eschertron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikepukmel View Post
    Every time I think "OK this is the complete list", I find another part. Getting close now, I think.
    ... and of course you're ordering extras because, you know, there'll be other builds after this one!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Conner View Post
    If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken.

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    Quote Originally Posted by g1 View Post
    Some cab discussion here:
    Rawcabs!
    Thanks g1!

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    Mojotone (Heyboer) power trans specs 362-0-362? vs Mercury vs Hammond...

    I mostly much decided on Hammond, for price vs specs, and haven't seen many complaints about them. Just picking through other web sites today, looked at the Heyboer Deluxe trans spec on the Mojotone site:

    mojo761_deluxe_power_trans.png

    Am I reading this right? Is this really 362 0 362vac B+? I thought the old Fender AB763 325 0 325 were designed to push the 6V6's very hard. Can those output tubes really stand another almost 40 vac into the GZ34? What rectified output would we get into the grid2 of the 6V6's on the deluxe design? 325* 1.3 = 422.5 and 325* 1.4 = 455 but 365*1.3 = 474.5 and 365*1.4 = 511. This doesn't look like a PS designed for 6V6's, more like 6L6? The Pro reverb from similar era had 375 0 355 into a 5U4GB which (fender) 440v into grid2 of 6L6's. But the 5U4 is a less efficient rectifier tube, or at least that's what I read.

    Wouldn't these higher B+ voltages cook the 6V6s a lot faster?

    On a similar vein, there are a whole bunch of transformers on the Mercury Magnetics site for Deluxe amps. They have at least a few that state "lower B+". Only one states a value, 290 0 290v, the others don't, they just write "lower B+". I wrote them a note asking for data sheets for a few more of the transformers.

    With today's higher wall voltage, on average, wouldn't it be better to get a lower B+ power transformer for these (Deluxe AB763) style amps? I really would hate to burn through output tubes every 3 months.

    The Hammond 291BX has 330 0 330, which is close to the 325 on the Fender schematic. Now Im second guessing (47th guessing) whether this is the best transformer for the job due to the voltage issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by eschertron View Post
    ... and of course you're ordering extras because, you know, there'll be other builds after this one!
    Ohhh man, I think about that every day now. I have about 3 orders almost ready to go (one for most of the discretes, one for transformers and some discretes, one for most other stuff, ckt boards, jacks etc). Almost ready to push the button and I thought to myself, "You know, your brother who is a fine guitarist, way better than you'll be, really WOULD like one of these amps too...".

    The only thing keeping me from ordering more duplicates of some parts is that I think as its a first amp build, I know Im going to screw up some stuff (hopefully not leading to entry/exit wounds, fires, etc). Im not setting out to do that, just know that the first build is a prototype, and will find better whatever, parts, technique... So I think I will end up making amp #2 different than the first.

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    First draft BOM, with some notes pages

    First shot at a bill of materials for a Fender Deluxe AB763 chassis build.
    Took advice (thanks!) read across the schematic, writing values down.
    Then, on another page of the spreadsheet, sorted and got counts.
    Another page for big ticket items like transformers, cabinet.

    Decided to get components close to original values since I don't know beans about engineering yet. Also, use orig components
    that fit into particular slots in the original design eyelet board, like ceramic disc caps.

    Rough estimate about $1,100.00 USD for this build, using good components. This is a rough estimate, I'll be bargain
    hunting.
    Next step is to get closer on suppliers and get a few web shopping carts together with shipping costs. Wahoo, here we go!

    FenderDeluxe_AB763_BOM_03182017_NO_ORDER_CARTS_rev1.xls

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    Any amp builder/fixer out there buy one of these?

    Parts Express 3A Variac Variable AC Power Transformer 0-130 VAC

    sounds very reasonably priced.

  18. #18
    Old Timer Leo_Gnardo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikepukmel View Post
    Any amp builder/fixer out there buy one of these?

    Parts Express 3A Variac Variable AC Power Transformer 0-130 VAC

    sounds very reasonably priced.
    Heck of a deal, just don't stress it past 3 amps. Buy a couple more things & get free ground shipping. Fuse and meter, I'm impressed. Here at LG's Lab I gotta have a big variac 10 amp, never know what kind of big gear is gonna show up. But if you're dealing with small amps only that's a great find!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
    Heck of a deal, just don't stress it past 3 amps. Buy a couple more things & get free ground shipping. Fuse and meter, I'm impressed. Here at LG's Lab I gotta have a big variac 10 amp, never know what kind of big gear is gonna show up. But if you're dealing with small amps only that's a great find!
    Thanks Leo! After poking around on ebay and such, I never thought I could find one cheap enough for my little amp builds and other small project.

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    Supporting Member eschertron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikepukmel View Post
    The Hammond 291BX has 330 0 330, which is close to the 325 on the Fender schematic. Now Im second guessing (47th guessing) whether this is the best transformer for the job due to the voltage issue.
    I didn't look at the 291BX, but if it's like the other current offerings it'll have taps on the primary for 115VAC and 125VAC. Smart on their part!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Conner View Post
    If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken.

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    Supporting Member eschertron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikepukmel View Post
    The only thing keeping me from ordering more duplicates of some parts is that I think...
    I certainly wasn't suggesting that you accurately see into the future! It was more of a suggestion that if you are buying, say 3 each of 100k resistors, go ahead and get 10 for a price break. Common-value parts like that will be used in almost any 'next' build, whatever it is. When I buy coupling caps, control pots, etc., I'll get some extra in the case I burn something up, or want to breadboard/prototype some other idea I come up with. Rare or expensive parts, not so much
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Conner View Post
    If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken.

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    Quote Originally Posted by eschertron View Post
    I certainly wasn't suggesting that you accurately see into the future! It was more of a suggestion that if you are buying, say 3 each of 100k resistors, go ahead and get 10 for a price break. Common-value parts like that will be used in almost any 'next' build, whatever it is. When I buy coupling caps, control pots, etc., I'll get some extra in the case I burn something up, or want to breadboard/prototype some other idea I come up with. Rare or expensive parts, not so much
    Thanks eschertron!

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    Quote Originally Posted by eschertron View Post
    I didn't look at the 291BX, but if it's like the other current offerings it'll have taps on the primary for 115VAC and 125VAC. Smart on their part!
    Oh thanks for the tip, I will check out their data sheets.

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    Supporting Member eschertron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikepukmel View Post
    Oh thanks for the tip, I will check out their data sheets.
    Had a minute to look at Hammond's offering. Seems the 'vintage' PTs have a primary rated at 120vac, no taps. Of course, 120vac kinda splits the difference in the line voltages over the years, and may not be too bad for what you want to accomplish. Just thinking about it (not very hard, mind you) I'd say their 330-0-330 rating is close to - but actually lower than - what a vintage tranny rated at 325-0-325 would be putting out connected to today's outlets.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Conner View Post
    If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken.

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    Chassis arrived today, three days early. Haven't had a chance to unbox it, but should check that its the right thing and no damage.
    No turning back now.

    This is the chassis I got. $65.00, includes faceplate and shipping.

    Deluxe Reverb-style Amp Chassis with Faceplate Blackface Silverface RI | eBay

    store is

    zachmdhunter on eBay
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    Got some time today to measure up the chassis, make sure the parts fits the holes before ordering.

    dsc_0485_v1.jpg

    So far so good. The Hoffman eyelet board is a little wider than the fender, either that or the chassis grommet holes are not in the same spot as the fender chassis. No big deal, the grommet holes will be just a little under the edge of the eyelet board, where the period fender chassis had the grommet holes just outside the edge of the board viewed from the top. Maybe will have a local shop trim 1/8" from the edge of the board.

    So far, chassis and board look to be very good quality.
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    Old Timer Leo_Gnardo's Avatar
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    My that does look good. Your board will be on standoffs, no? Perched a bit above the chassis. In cases I've had where the pass-thru holes come up under the board edge, I break out the Dremel and carve away some semi-circles where necessary, to let wires pop thru without having to make radical bends
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
    My that does look good. Your board will be on standoffs, no? Perched a bit above the chassis. In cases I've had where the pass-thru holes come up under the board edge, I break out the Dremel and carve away some semi-circles where necessary, to let wires pop thru without having to make radical bends
    Yes, definitely standoffs, Leo. I have looked around, found metal and plastic, probably go with metal. Thanks for the tip on dremeling where the chassis holes are, will do that! Times like this, I wish I had a small cheap drill press. Could hog out a little with a forstner bit. Maybe pick around craigslist for one.

    Measured up the transformer hole, the 'stock' Hammond 291BX will fit the power transformer body hole and mounting bolt holes. (wheew!)

    The 8 pin tube socket holes were cut for Belton 8 pin tube sockets 1.18" chassis holes, which is nice. The 9 pin holes are standard 0.75", fit all the tube sockets I have found (belton and other cheaper ones).

    The only thing Im not absolutely sure about is the power cord strain relief hole. Lots of strain reliefs on th web but they don't all state the dimensions of the required holes.

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    Leo I just noticed your location as Dogpatch on hudson. I grew up in Poughkeepsie, NY, we called that <some rude words> on the hudson (not repeatable in polite company!). For us, our drinking water came out of the hudson, and we were one of the towns affected by the big GE plant up north dumping PCB's into the hudson way back when.

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    Old Timer Leo_Gnardo's Avatar
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    You'll want to run a vacuum hose near any dremeling, the board dust is nothing you want to inhale.

    One of the standard power cable nylon strain reliefs is Heyco 6NP3-4, I get 'em by the 100 from Mouser. Also, your local Home Despot typically has a selection, you could bring in your chassis, find one that fits & buy that.

    Leo I just noticed your location as Dogpatch on hudson. I grew up in Poughkeepsie, NY, we called that <some rude words> on the hudson (not repeatable in polite company!). For us, our drinking water came out of the hudson, and we were one of the towns affected by the big GE plant up north dumping PCB's into the hudson way back when.
    I thought you might have a mid Hudson connection. A couple decades ago (80's) there was a reporter for the local paper named Pukmel. First name I forget - Gary? - so did his editor. He had a weekly column, said when his editor wanted to see him, he just yelled out "PUKMEL ! ! !"

    Poughkeepsie still draws river water for public use. They went the wrong route on "purification" some years ago, put in a system that added some half ass chemical, chloramine, that other cities had previously tried and declared unfit to continue. That's the way things go around here. I'm sure somebody pocketed a fortune on that deal. There's still a standing warning to strictly limit eating fish from the Hudson. Although the river has recovered greatly from its condition 60 years ago (THANK YOU PETE SEEGER ! ! ! ) it's still not safe. And now the Coast Guard wants to approve allowing barges full of crude oil from Canada to use the river as a parking lot while oil futures traders buy & sell contracts on them, IOW make lots of cash for the rich folks while endangering the environment for us normal folks. I'm sure it will get full approval from . . . well that's a matter for another thread so we'll send the rest of it there, shall we.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leo_Gnardo View Post
    You'll want to run a vacuum hose near any dremeling, the board dust is nothing you want to inhale.

    One of the standard power cable nylon strain reliefs is Heyco 6NP3-4, I get 'em by the 100 from Mouser. Also, your local Home Despot typically has a selection, you could bring in your chassis, find one that fits & buy that.



    I thought you might have a mid Hudson connection. A couple decades ago (80's) there was a reporter for the local paper named Pukmel. First name I forget - Gary? - so did his editor. He had a weekly column, said when his editor wanted to see him, he just yelled out "PUKMEL ! ! !"

    Poughkeepsie still draws river water for public use. They went the wrong route on "purification" some years ago, put in a system that added some half ass chemical, chloramine, that other cities had previously tried and declared unfit to continue. That's the way things go around here. I'm sure somebody pocketed a fortune on that deal. There's still a standing warning to strictly limit eating fish from the Hudson. Although the river has recovered greatly from its condition 60 years ago (THANK YOU PETE SEEGER ! ! ! ) it's still not safe. And now the Coast Guard wants to approve allowing barges full of crude oil from Canada to use the river as a parking lot while oil futures traders buy & sell contracts on them, IOW make lots of cash for the rich folks while endangering the environment for us normal folks. I'm sure it will get full approval from . . . well that's a matter for another thread so we'll send the rest of it there, shall we.
    Thanks for the tip on the Heyco, I will look them up. Yep, (Bill) Pukmel was my dad, started as a reporter when he left the radio business. He was managing editor by the time he left the Poughkeepsie Journal in the late 80's. (I still remember some of the names Jim Shumacher, Whitey Deckner, Bob Niles, Lou Peck, ...) He did have an editorial column and did some cartoons as well. My school friends father worked at the Poughkeepsi water works, and a few other friends from school days as well. yes, I remember one of them getting burned spilling some nasty chemicals on his leg, very lucky he had thick pants on and could get them off in time. Oh no, crude oil up the hudson, after all that it took to get it where it is now? <big frown> yeah, another thread.

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    After much toil, decided on Nichicon capacitors for the first build As long as I don't blow it up, can always put in pricey ones later. Total bill for all electrolytics is about 11.00 from Mouser (plus shipping). I will tack on the Hammond transformers since they are a Hammond distributor, and prices seem about what everyone else is charging. That leaves the other bazillion parts to buy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by potatofarmer View Post
    An easy way to come up with a BOM would be to print the schematic and label each component with a letter and number... R1, R2, C1, C2, etc. When you assign it a number, make a note of it in a spreadsheet. For ease of ordering later, make sure to also note anything special about it. "Label | Value | Notes" or something like that. Once you've entered it in your spreadsheet, highlight it on the schematic you've printed out.

    I suggest using a spreadsheet because later on when you go to order you can sort the list by the value column and quickly see that you need, say, sixteen 1-meg resistors. I'll typically add a couple columns for, say, "Vendor," and "Vendor Part #" which helps greatly to have in advance. Even though it happens to me every time, it seems I'm never fully prepared for a Mouser order and within 5 minutes of ordering parts I'll remember at least a dozen 5-cent parts that I need. Also with vendor information included, you can make nifty pivot tables.

    For capacitors, make sure to get at least the same voltage rating, or better. A lot of coupling caps are rated to withstand 630V - this is fine.
    For resistors, make sure to get at least the same wattage (power) rating, or better. If the schematic calls for a 1/2-W resistor, a 1W or 2W will also work just fine.

    Also don't forget that you're going to need jacks, sockets, tubes, the tremolo optoisolator "bug", transformers, knobs, a footswitch, wire... all that stuff.

    For vendors of general electronic components, I tend to use Mouser. It can be tricky learning how to navigate their site, but once you get the hang of it, it goes quickly. One nice thing about Mouser is that they include the value in the part number, so once you find a resistor you like in 220k, you can just replace the "220k" in the part number with "100k" and get the same resistor in a different value.

    You're probably going to need to use multiple vendors though, and someone like Antique Electronic Supply is a decent place to start.

    Building a clone amp is a balance of frustration versus cost. Or any amp, really; but with a clone you have the option of a fully compiled kit with all the parts and maybe even instructions. Simple to order, but higher cost. On the other end, you can spend hours hunting down each and every little part, and while your hair might fall out, at least you saved some money.

    For a first build, you might want to save your "frustration budget" for actually building the thing. I'd recommend building a Champ kit, because they're great and quite simple. Or buy a little 5W tube amp (there are a bunch out there) and experiment on it. Oh yeah, look up the "AX84 P1 Theory Document" - that's a good start on learning what does what.
    Oh man, I didn't realize how much toil I would go through sourcing parts! Yes, I did start with the firm intention of building a single ended amp, few parts, simple build easier to diagnose, etc. Firm. Absolute. Then, I thought, meh, you know Mike, it doesn't have a tone stack. Gotta have a tone stack. OK so what's the smallest amp that has a tone stack. Bass, Treble. that's all I need. Princeton, that's the build for me. Two output tubes, 10x more complex than the Champ, but ... has a tone stack. Then, I thought, you know Mike, you never really loved the sound that blackface princeton reverb you had back in the 70's. A teeny bit bigger amp would be better, one with a long tail pair phase inverter. So ... I argued my way the way up to a Twin Reverb clone. No way could I put a 80 to 100 watt amp in my house. Akkk. Then all the way back down to a Princeton again. Then up to a Deluxe. To keep from flip flopping again, I just fixed on a Deluxe after finding a few amp techs on Youtube, that played through the thing, sounded awesome, so hope mine sounds anywhere near that good.

  34. #34
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    wooh: http://www.tubebooks.org/Books/gray_...tronics_2e.pdf tough to trudge through this one.
    Currently reading Merlin's book (awesome). Will get through both eventually.
    eschertron likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikepukmel View Post
    wooh: http://www.tubebooks.org/Books/gray_...tronics_2e.pdf tough to trudge through this one.
    Currently reading Merlin's book (awesome). Will get through both eventually.
    Merlin's book on preamps. Good one. I'm still waiting with bated breath for him to reissue the rest of the series.

    Just looking through the TOC for the Applied Electronics text, I had flashbacks to Freshman physics. Big book, not in a year did every chapter get covered. Pick and choose. When you realize you need some of the earlier content (that was skipped) to explain the material you're reading, go back... or use the internet
    IOW don't trudge, investigate!
    mikepukmel likes this.
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Conner View Post
    If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken.

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