Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 35 of 113
Like Tree116Likes

Thread: Modern EL34 reliability?

  1. #1
    Supporting Member tubeswell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Wellington NZ
    Posts
    4,063

    Modern EL34 reliability?

    What are people using for reliable but economic replacements for EL34s running 500 plate volts?

    JJ EL34 are money wasters.

    The new 'Svetlanas' seem a bit hit and miss. Sometimes the bias won't hold/settle, even though the g1 voltage stays more or less constant - even with the g1 voltage at a steady -40, the cathode current just keeps gradually creeping up through the 30s and 40s and when it gets into the 50mA decade it starts to zoom further upward.

    I'm tired of having to replace new duds.
    Last edited by tubeswell; 07-07-2017 at 12:25 PM.
    Building a better world (one tube amp at a time)

  2. #2
    Old Timer Leo_Gnardo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Dogpatch-on-Hudson
    Posts
    4,179
    Quote Originally Posted by tubeswell View Post
    The new 'Svetlanas' seem a bit hit and miss. Sometimes the bias won't hold/settle, even though the g1 voltage stays more or less constant - even with the g1 voltage at a steady -40, the cathode current just keeps gradually creeping up through the 30s and 40s and when it gets into the 50mA decade it starts to zoom further upward.

    I'm tired of having to replace new duds.
    "NEW" Svetlana? These must be the tubes labeled "Svetlana" by New Sensor. Settlement of a marketing dispute about 15 years ago gave New Sensor (owner of labels Sovtek, Electroharmonix, Mullard, TungSol, GEC Genalex Gold Lion but all manufactured in their Saratov Russia tube factories) rights to sell tubes labeled "Svetlana" while the real Svetlana, now out of the consumer tube manufacturing business since @ 2011, sold theirs in the USA under flying C, =C= brand. Confusing isn't it? And perhaps someone who knows more about it can help clear it up more for us. AFAIK there's no advantage to the New Sensor "Svetlana", and they don't have whatever special qualities of tone or toughness that were attributed to the real =C=, made in St. Petersburg, Svetlana output tubes. As far as I can tell, tubes made presently and distributed with Svetlana labels are same as EH & Sovtek, differing only in the paint design on the glass. But of course I could be wrong...

    AND I'd like to know about any currently available EL34 that will hold up in hi voltage amps. It seems all we can do at the moment is 1) replace screen grid resistors with larger value ones. Trouble with this is you go beyond 2K2 and that starts to seriously interfere with the tone & feel of the amp. Or B: build a separate screen grid supply, at a voltage that's half to 2/3 of the amp's B+, then bias EL34's appropriately to 30-35 milliamps. What a big pain in the rear end! But I'm about to do it to an old Laney "Klipp" because I can't find any other solution.

  3. #3
    Supporting Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Manchester, UK
    Posts
    277
    I've used shuguang el34s in an amp with 500 on the plates and they were fine. They market a version (BHT? I forget) which have been tested to work at higher voltages too and I think TAD resell these.

    EDIT:

    Ruby resell them:
    http://www.dougstubes.com/ruby-el34-bht.html

    maybe try and find them from someone else though!
    tubeswell likes this.

  4. #4
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Norristown state hospital
    Posts
    1,712
    EH seem to work fine for me.
    tubeswell likes this.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Lansing, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    27,803
    Agree with the RUby, I had great success with their EL34B Chinese tubes. Never got a bad one, they worked/sounded good, and were reliable.
    tubeswell likes this.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

  6. #6
    Supporting Member Chuck H's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    pacific north west
    Posts
    11,653
    +1 on the Ruby rebranded Shuguang EL34B. The only tubes to survive the 'balls to the wall' test at 475Vp in a recent build. And all three pair did it. All three were microphonic though. to the point of being questionable for use in a combo amp. And I bought two pair from one vendor and one from another. ALL were microphonic like this. Sounded great otherwise. Better than the JJ's (the same amp blew up two pair). I tried the JJ E34L (some kind of different el34 that requires more bias voltage). Those survived, but sounded nothing like a proper EL34. I didn't like them.
    tubeswell likes this.
    "I've heard magic defined as "a technology you don't understand". By that aphorism, the folks in this forum are practicing wizards, able to summon AND control the lightning demon, and make charms to allow others to use the demon in certain ways." R.G.

    "...less ear-friendly but handy for jazz." Leo_Gnardo

  7. #7
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Chill-Ville, VA
    Posts
    2,026
    I think those E34Ls were for 6L6-amps, so you could use them without reworking the bias supply... Well, maybe they were just "off-tubes" that they "found a use for," like, "hey, these'll plug right in a Fender, all you gotta do is add a single tiny jumper wire..."

    Why the craptoaster can't they make an EL34 like those Sovtek 5881WXTs?

    Justin
    Justin
    "When receiving a shock I emit a strange loud high pitched girlish squeak." - Alex R -
    "Sort of like not checking for toilet paper before taking a dump. ." - Chuck H -
    "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

  8. #8
    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Lansing, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    27,803
    I suspect because the EL34 is a true pentode, while the 6L6 is a beam power tube.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

  9. #9
    Senior Member elipsey's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Upstate
    Posts
    268
    What do you guys think about the jjs at lower plate voltages? Would you feel ok about installing them for someone in 300-350Vp amp?

  10. #10
    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Lansing, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    27,803
    I never think of plate voltage as the killer, drop your screen voltage or screen current instead. What really kills power tubes is dissipation, not voltage. Those frail little grids in the EL34 can melt.
    Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

  11. #11
    Senior Member elipsey's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Upstate
    Posts
    268
    I understand and I kind of mean if those parameters are configured conservatively. It's cathoded biased to somewhat less then rated dissapation (I think I shot for ~11W), and I believe I used 2k2 screen resistors, although I didn't mearsure the screen current. Vp is about 305. Soooo.... can I give it to someone with JJs with reasonable confidence that it won't blow up? I didn't realize they had a bad rep....

    EDIT: I guess the common sense answer is check the screen current.

  12. #12
    Supporting Member Chuck H's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    pacific north west
    Posts
    11,653
    Quote Originally Posted by Zozobra View Post
    I've used shuguang el34s in an amp with 500 on the plates and they were fine. They market a version (BHT? I forget) which have been tested to work at higher voltages too and I think Ruby (as per edit) resell these.
    That's great too. And I mentioned that they worked for me. Trouble is "higher voltages" shouldn't need to be tested for in a properly made EL34. If you look at the vintage spec sheets they are exampled at voltages and current that would roast new examples. Granted, none of those sheets indicate whether the tubes would fail if you clipped them under such working conditions. But asking 500Vp for an amp that will be clipping from a tube that's SUPPOSED to be rated for 800Vp seems reasonable. Especially when you consider that in other guitar amps the humble 6V6, rated for only 350Vp is often operated at over 400Vp and survives clipping without much trouble. I guess I just double take when I read that current EL34's need to be selected to survive "higher voltages" so they won't roast in amps using 60% of their RATED Vp.

    WRT newer tubes I think EL34's have been a weakening offering since twenty years ago. If what's available now was sold by any vendor twenty five years ago they'd have been tarred, feathered and run to the edge of town by torch light. Now, today we just want new tubes we don't have to throw away.?.
    tubeswell likes this.
    "I've heard magic defined as "a technology you don't understand". By that aphorism, the folks in this forum are practicing wizards, able to summon AND control the lightning demon, and make charms to allow others to use the demon in certain ways." R.G.

    "...less ear-friendly but handy for jazz." Leo_Gnardo

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Chiraq
    Posts
    632
    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck H View Post
    I tried the JJ E34L (some kind of different el34 that requires more bias voltage). Those survived, but sounded nothing like a proper EL34. I didn't like them.
    JJ E34L are more powerful and clean than EL34. THey are good for some things if that's what you want. I put them In my sound city 120 and liked it less because it had less distortion when cranked. It was cleaner, fuller, and louder sounding, and that amp is already loud as hell.

    I have been running 6CA7 for months on end full volume with 580V on the plates and similar on screen . My screen supply has a 1K dropping resistor in series with 1K screen grid resistors though so the screen supply sags to about 390V at full tilt. If they eventually explode I will report back.

    I have used KT77 in replacement of KT88 on a sunn model t style amp (the 70s one, ultralinear with 530-540V plates and screens) and they seem to stand up fine. Has more distortion and only puts out about 110W at clipping instead of 130W but sounds great. I prefer it over KT88 in the amp.

    Why use EL34 when there is KT77 and 6CA7?
    bob p and tubeswell like this.

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Chiraq
    Posts
    632
    Also as an aside and an anomoly I ran JJ 6CA7 for about a month full volume with full screen supply (580V with no 1K dropping resistor in series with individual 1K screen grid resistors) and the tubes did not die. They did however drop from 150W output to 120W in that time. When I measured the screen dissipation at full volume it was something like 17.5W. Over double the maximum screen dissipation on the datasheet, 8W. I must have done 20-30 hours of playing like this

    maybe Im getting lucky but I find JJs to be pretty rugged.

    Even all the 6L6s that stand up to the 530-540V plate/screen supply in Ampeg V4s
    bob p and g1 like this.

  15. #15
    Supporting Member Randall's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Cape Coral, FL
    Posts
    1,139
    Valve Queen will match and burn in tubes for 72 hours at 350, 400 or 500v. She has Ruby (6 month warranty) as well as several other lines. VALVE QUEEN vacuum tubes

    I put a set of Rubys in a Marshall Jubilee that was running at 525v. I also then put it on a bucking transformer to bring things down a bit. AFAIK it is still running.
    tubeswell and Chuck H like this.
    It's weird, because it WAS working fine.....

  16. #16
    g1
    g1 is offline
    don't forget the joker g1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Canada, somewhere north of Fargo
    Posts
    8,577
    Quote Originally Posted by nsubulysses View Post
    Why use EL34 when there is KT77 and 6CA7?
    Are you talking about NOS or modern production tubes? For new built stuff, I haven't checked for differences in the spec sheets, but I wonder if those other model names are just more marketing foolery.
    Justin Thomas likes this.
    Certified Dotard

  17. #17
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Cornelius, Oregon
    Posts
    1,249
    The key with JJ tubes is to buy them from someone who adequately tests and screens the tubes prior to sale. I've gotten JJ's from AES/CE Distribution on the past and also from Eurotubes. There was a problem with AES/CE Distribution for awhile and they changed their screening of tubes prior to sale and it seems to have resolved the problems. I usually buy from Eurotubes since they are local to me and I can just go over and get them instead of having to pay for shipping. I've never had an issue with JJ tubes, but I don't use a while bunch of tubes either so YMMV.

    BTW, I've used some of the JJ KT77's and I like them. They sound good and were very reliable.

    Greg
    tubeswell likes this.

  18. #18
    Old Timer Leo_Gnardo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Dogpatch-on-Hudson
    Posts
    4,179
    Quote Originally Posted by soundmasterg View Post
    I've used some of the JJ KT77's and I like them. They sound good and were very reliable.
    Similar story here for JJ's KT77 & 6CA7. But the crustomer complains "they sound different, not like EL34." Well they are beam power tubes, it's true, not "real" pentodes. Someday I'd like to try an experiment, scrape off the lettering, paint on 'EL34' and see if they complain then. (put devil-horn smiley thing here...)

  19. #19
    Supporting Member The Dude's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Sioux Falls, SD
    Posts
    4,140
    I think some of that "they sound different" thing is caused by the fact that the old tubes were worn out and the new ones aren't. Ears adjust to that "worn out" sound over time- just as it takes time to adjust to the "new" sound.
    I'll equate it to this. When I started as a tech, I did house calls on TV's. Much of the time picture tubes would be worn out and color balance was way off- to the point the picture would be leaning heavily to one color. I would readjust the set for a nice even picture with accurate color balance. Then, the sweet old lady sitting in her arm chair would say, "It doesn't look right. There's too much red". So, I'd put it back to the green picture I started with just for sake of making the customer happy. Hell, if watching a TV that's the rough equivalent of watching a monochrome monitor makes her happy, who am I to argue?
    Chuck H, g1 and eschertron like this.
    “Yeah, well, you know, that’s just, like, your opinion, man.”

  20. #20
    Supporting Member Chuck H's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    pacific north west
    Posts
    11,653
    I've wondered if people that are surprised (or disappointed) by the sound of new power tubes weren't just 'ear tone' tuned to their old, crappy tubes. But I have to say... Put a set of JJ E34L's up next to a set of Ruby EL34B's and then tell me which one sounds like an EL34 should. Lot's of guys on the Marshall forums are onto the Ruby offerings too. Fortunately most Marshall amps (and therefor most amps that use EL34's) are head design. The microphony was problematic for me. YMMV. I have two pair of the Ruby's right now. The boxes are strapped together with a rubber band and "head only" is written on the boxes (by me) with a sharpie. But they sound just great and DO take some abuse.
    The Dude likes this.
    "I've heard magic defined as "a technology you don't understand". By that aphorism, the folks in this forum are practicing wizards, able to summon AND control the lightning demon, and make charms to allow others to use the demon in certain ways." R.G.

    "...less ear-friendly but handy for jazz." Leo_Gnardo

  21. #21
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Chiraq
    Posts
    632
    Quote Originally Posted by g1 View Post
    Are you talking about NOS or modern production tubes? For new built stuff, I haven't checked for differences in the spec sheets, but I wonder if those other model names are just more marketing foolery.
    I am talking about new stuff.

    KT77 and 6CA7 are attractive because their max plate and screen voltages are 800V/800V and 800V/500V respectively. FWIW, I believe JJ lists the 6L6GC plate and screen voltages as 500V/450V max.

    Both seem to be more robust variants of EL34

  22. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Chiraq
    Posts
    632
    Are EL34s kinda flimsy because theyr'e $12?

    I know catalin gramada has recommended to me in the past to use KT77 or KT66 in rough screen grid scenarios because for some reason it handles it better than 6CA7/EL34.

    I was too cheapskate to try KT66 and I didn't want to use KT77 because someeone I know already built an amp with that power section. So I arbitrarily didn't want to use it, although I like it. Good Idea huh?

    Also as someone mentioned earlier maybe it's about the seller. CE has done me pretty good I'd say. I always buy 24 hr burn in when possible too. I'd like to think it makes it more reliable but who knows. It just gets shipped half way across the country then anyway on a bumpy truck

  23. #23
    Supporting Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    2,745
    I've been using Shuguang EL4B for a while now and without problems. They are rebranded by TAD and a dissection shows the electrode assembly to be identical, though there could perhaps be some material differences. Maybe. The real difference is in the envelope thickness. A Shuguang tube weights 47g, the TAD 54g. Marshall is also using Shuguang tubes as OEM.
    bob p, pdf64 and Chuck H like this.

  24. #24
    Supporting Member Chuck H's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    pacific north west
    Posts
    11,653
    In The above mentioned combo I have three of those silicone rings on each tube and another snaked around each spring retainer to keep them in line. I even considered shock mounting the sockets, but found a happy place before I had to do that. I wonder if the Ruby EL34B has the heavier bottle. TAD does often order their own modifications to their tubes rather than just rebrand. At least that's what I interpret from the web.
    "I've heard magic defined as "a technology you don't understand". By that aphorism, the folks in this forum are practicing wizards, able to summon AND control the lightning demon, and make charms to allow others to use the demon in certain ways." R.G.

    "...less ear-friendly but handy for jazz." Leo_Gnardo

  25. #25
    Supporting Member tubeswell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Wellington NZ
    Posts
    4,063
    Quote Originally Posted by Randall View Post
    ...
    I put a set of Rubys in a Marshall Jubilee that was running at 525v. I also then put it on a bucking transformer to bring things down a bit. AFAIK it is still running.
    Was this biased much closer to Class B than Class A?, and what ra-a did you select?
    Building a better world (one tube amp at a time)

  26. #26
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Norristown state hospital
    Posts
    1,712
    Are you guys re-tensioning the output tube sockets when you install JJ's?

    Their pins are skinnier and have caused alot of failures in stuff I get in.
    tubeswell likes this.

  27. #27
    Old Timer Leo_Gnardo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Dogpatch-on-Hudson
    Posts
    4,179
    Quote Originally Posted by drewl View Post
    Are you guys re-tensioning the output tube sockets when you install JJ's? Their pins are skinnier and have caused alot of failures in stuff I get in.
    Skinny pin JJ octal base tubes were a major headache for too many years when JJ first came on the market BUT I haven't seen any such for over a decade. If any are still stashed somewhere and find their way into current sales, I'd return them to the seller immediately and demand my money back. Any techs still have them in stock from the early 2000's? I'd take a hammer to them, just accept the loss of trashy product. Yes they were rubbish. Thank hevvins currently made JJ's no longer have this problem and I hope it stays that way.
    Justin Thomas likes this.

  28. #28
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Norristown state hospital
    Posts
    1,712
    Seriously?
    Every JJ tubed amp I see has has the thinner pins.
    Thanks for the update.

    I'm not a fan of New Sensor buying up the naming rights to great old brands, but are you guys seeing failures from their EL34's?
    Whether they be bogus Mullard, Tung Sol or Svetlana?

  29. #29
    Supporting Member tubeswell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Wellington NZ
    Posts
    4,063
    Quote Originally Posted by drewl View Post
    Seriously?
    ...
    I'm not a fan of New Sensor buying up the naming rights to great old brands, but are you guys seeing failures from their EL34's?
    Whether they be bogus Mullard, Tung Sol or Svetlana?
    Yes, the latest 'Svetlana' EL34s I put into a Marshall RI SL100 2 days ago blew up last night. :-(
    Building a better world (one tube amp at a time)

  30. #30
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Chill-Ville, VA
    Posts
    2,026
    I have a much harder time finding good octal tube sockets that don't stretch irreparably upon first insertion than I do finding quality tubes...

    Okay, let the sex jokes roll.

    Justin
    "When receiving a shock I emit a strange loud high pitched girlish squeak." - Alex R -
    "Sort of like not checking for toilet paper before taking a dump. ." - Chuck H -
    "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

  31. #31
    Supporting Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    2,745
    I use Belton sockets and they don't seem too bad. In my own builds I've used octal ceramic transmitting tube sockets and they're a much better bet than anything else. No pins are too big or too small - they have a separate clamping spring for each pin so the contacts themselves don't need to apply any force. Except they're huge by comparison to regular sockets and need more chassis space.
    bob p and Justin Thomas like this.

  32. #32
    Old Timer
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Chill-Ville, VA
    Posts
    2,026
    I'll get some next time I place an order.

    Justin
    "When receiving a shock I emit a strange loud high pitched girlish squeak." - Alex R -
    "Sort of like not checking for toilet paper before taking a dump. ." - Chuck H -
    "All I ever managed to do with that amp was... kill small rodents within a 50 yard radius of my practice building." - Tone Meister -

  33. #33
    Supporting Member tubeswell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Wellington NZ
    Posts
    4,063
    So, the amp that blew up the (New Sensor) 'Svetlanas' was a 1959 Superlead 100 (a 2005 RI version hand-wired in the UK). The EL34 voltages were Vg1 -41.8, Ik = 35.1mA, Va = 507. This was after the amp had been warmed up for 25 mins.

    The same customer bought in another UK made hand-wired RI 1959 SL100 (this one made in 2006), still wearing the set of complete factory-fitted JJEL34s (each tube dated stamped 2005). AFAICT, this is an identical amp to the 2005 one. I checked the JJEL34 voltages in this amp (Didn't bother fiddling with the bias): Vg1 -34.4V, Ik = 47.6mA, Vg2 = 472, Va = 482 (after 5 mins) - Idling at 22W! Whoa!. The customer claims he bought this 2006 amp brand new, has hardly used it, has never had a problem with it, and never touched the tubes. Even so, it seems that even the circa-2005 JJ EL34s can stand up to punishment better than present day New Sensor 'Svetlanas'.
    Building a better world (one tube amp at a time)

  34. #34
    Supporting Member Chuck H's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    pacific north west
    Posts
    11,653
    I can't say if anything has changed, but two years ago I blew up two pair of JJ's in an amp at 475Vp idling at 18W. The moment I put the screws to them with some power tube clipping they shorted. I was starting to think it was the amp. I couldn't find anything wrong so I chalked it up to the usual, unusual likelihood of consistently bad power tubes and started asking questions here. That's when I bought the Ruby branded Shuguangs. The first pair was too microphonic for the combo amp I was working on, but the tubes survived. I ordered two more pair and they were also too microphonic. They also survived. Judicious use of silicone rings helped enough that I was able to ship. But the Ruby's survived where all others failed. I can't say if it was the vendors lack of testing or a decline in quality from JJ.?. I won't trouble with it again while I already know that a way around the problem is Ruby branded Shuguang tubes and silicone rings. JJ can screw off.
    "I've heard magic defined as "a technology you don't understand". By that aphorism, the folks in this forum are practicing wizards, able to summon AND control the lightning demon, and make charms to allow others to use the demon in certain ways." R.G.

    "...less ear-friendly but handy for jazz." Leo_Gnardo

  35. #35
    Better Tone thru Mathematics bob p's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Chicago, USA
    Posts
    3,455
    Please don't hold back on naming the suppliers who are giving you crappy JJ tubes, no matter who they are, and especially if they're someone who claims to perform their own QA screening.

    The distributor's identity is key information to know because some suppliers claim to screen the their tubes while other's don't. Getting a bad one from someone who doesn't claim to screen shouldn't surprise anyone, but getting bad ones from someone who does claim to screen is an entirely different situation.

    If a distributor screens tubes and rejects bad ones, those tubes have to go somewhere. if they're not being destroyed then they re-enter the marketplace somewhere else. Granted, that indicates that there is a problem with QC at JJ, but if there's a way to work around that by buying from the right guy, that's a better solution to me than dealing with microphonic tubes.
    soundmasterg likes this.
    "Stand back, I'm holding a calculator." - chinrest

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Ampeg SVT CL reliability/tech recommendation
    By andrewt in forum Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Repair
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-13-2016, 03:44 PM
  2. Replies: 56
    Last Post: 10-18-2013, 12:25 AM
  3. Marshall 2020 transformer reliability
    By Mick Bailey in forum Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Repair
    Replies: 19
    Last Post: 06-17-2013, 03:42 PM
  4. Final Setup and last choices for longevity / reliability
    By NorCalTuna in forum Mods & Tweaks
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 04-18-2011, 03:44 AM
  5. EL34 reliability mod
    By lowell in forum Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Repair
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 04-24-2008, 01:49 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •