Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 35 of 112

Thread: Marantz 18 receiver needs help

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0

    Marantz 18 receiver needs help

    The listen test is that both sides are distorted, and the right channel is weak.
    Voltages to the power transistors are +/- 37V both channels.
    Can anyone tell me how to upload & post the .pdf service manual to here already stored on my computer?
    Or can I even do that in .pdf?
    Here are the schematics:
    hfe_marantz_model_18_schematics.pdf
    The service manual is available at hifiengine as well as the service bulletin.


    There was a post below this one that had a correct copy of the service manual but that post has since disappeared

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Last edited by bigdrums925; 02-24-2018 at 08:38 PM.

  2. #2
    Better Tone thru Mathematics bob p's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Chicago, USA
    Posts
    4,908
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 37/0
    Given: 0/0
    Quote Originally Posted by bigdrums925 View Post
    Can anyone tell me how to upload & post the .pdf service manual to here already stored on my computer?
    Or can I even do that in .pdf?
    You can upload a PDF to the board as if you were positing a photograph. Click on the link above that looks like a framed photograph, follow the directions. You will probably need to have javascript running on your browser for things to work.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	how-to-post-pdf.png 
Views:	202 
Size:	46.8 KB 
ID:	47286  

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    "Stand back, I'm holding a calculator." - chinrest

    "I happen to have an original 1955 Stratocaster! The neck and body have been replaced with top quality Warmoth parts, I upgraded the hardware and put in custom, hand wound pickups. It's fabulous. There's nothing like that vintage tone or owning an original." - Chuck H

  3. #3
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA and Kona, HI
    Posts
    2,611
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 8/0
    Given: 0/0
    Before you do anything clean the tape monitor switches.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    starting with the P/S I found a diode CR5 pn 35-1015 (Marantz number) bad
    one end tied to C11 the 10uf 575v cap, the other end ties the red/grn secondary.
    Can anyone hazard a guess at what the CR5 ratings need to be, better yet a common diode number as I have quite a few?
    All the list says is its a rectifier diode. Would a 1N2070 work?
    C11 & CR5 are only shown on pg 1 of the schematics posted in my opening post above

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  5. #5
    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Wernersville, PA
    Posts
    12,207
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 5/0
    Given: 4/0
    It looks as if CR5 diode is for that goofy front panel meter (o scope).

    That should have nothing to do with the amp sounding bad.

    1N2070 is only a 400 volt part.
    I would not use it.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    I found a parts request page on the Marantz pages so I see if they can enlighten me or provide the proper diode.
    Funny that the o-scope seemed to be working properly though with the open diode.
    Thanks for the response Jazz P Bass
    I have now cleaned the tape switches and pots/switches, thanks olddawg

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  7. #7
    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Wernersville, PA
    Posts
    12,207
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 5/0
    Given: 4/0
    1N4007 would work fine.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    I put in a 1N4005 which seems to be working ok
    Tracing the distorted signals back to the point where they are no longer distorted, I find myself at the tone amp board
    Shown on pg 8 of the schematics, I find -36 v is at -42 v. The 12 v supply is 14 v but past 15k resistor R804,
    the +1 v on the schematic is really - 4.4 v
    R804 does measure 15k so what else could make the +1v be negative?

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    Anyone?

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  10. #10
    "Thermionic Apocalypse" -JT nickb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    2,755
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 12/0
    Given: 6/0
    What's the voltage on the base of Q803?

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

  11. #11
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    This project has been sitting for a few days but:

    This time the -4.4 v past R804 measures +2.5

    Base voltage on both Q803 & Q807 is about 1.1 v (where its supposed to be +.2)
    Emitter on both is about 3.3 v (where it's supposed to be +.8)
    Collector on both is about -30.5 v (where its supposed to be - 27)

    Pic of the output on the tone board:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0527.JPG 
Views:	13 
Size:	2.60 MB 
ID:	47375

    What does the scope pattern tell me?
    I can see the negative swing is badly clipped but why?
    The same pattern is shown on the other channel as well.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  12. #12
    "Thermionic Apocalypse" -JT nickb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    2,755
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 12/0
    Given: 6/0
    Don't worry about the off voltages in sheet 8. I see that the voltage depends critically of the gain of the two transistors as it relies on the bias current thru R810. What you have there is not unexpected.

    We need to know the vertical scale in order to really interpret the scope shot - you might simply be giving t too big a signal. Since you have a scope probe the collector of Q802 and the base of Q801.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

  13. #13
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    The signal going into the aux inputs is 2v P-P and about 1.5v coming into the tone board
    collector of Q802 shows an undistorted sine wave of 25v P-P
    base of Q801 shows and undistorted sine wave of 1.5v P-P
    I did roll off the gain just a bit and all tone controls are at center
    But the vertical scale is 5v per division in sheet 11
    Output negative swing distortion of the tone board is the same, just a little smaller gain on the scope now

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  14. #14
    "Thermionic Apocalypse" -JT nickb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    2,755
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 12/0
    Given: 6/0
    Quote Originally Posted by bigdrums925 View Post
    The signal going into the aux inputs is 2v P-P and about 1.5v coming into the tone board
    collector of Q802 shows an undistorted sine wave of 25v P-P
    base of Q801 shows and undistorted sine wave of 1.5v P-P
    I did roll off the gain just a bit and all tone controls are at center
    But the vertical scale is 5v per division in sheet 11
    Output negative swing distortion of the tone board is the same, just a little smaller gain on the scope now
    You are driving it with about 10x the signal you should be. That is why it's clipped.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

  15. #15
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    OK you are right, but why would it not clip on the positive swing also?

    This eliminated the distortion on the amp board but not at the speaker outputs.
    I'll try for that tomorrow, Thank you

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  16. #16
    "Thermionic Apocalypse" -JT nickb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    2,755
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 12/0
    Given: 6/0
    It's not biased at the midpoint of the swing as it doesn't need to be.

    With the smaller signal scope the output and the input to the power amp.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

  17. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    Signal going into the amp from the driver board is normal on 10K, 10J, & 10G and about equal signal strength
    Output at speaker jacks is normal until turned up past 1/2 way
    then it looks like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0528x.JPG 
Views:	30 
Size:	978.4 KB 
ID:	47382
    Taken on the 1 v per division scale
    What do you make of it?

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  18. #18
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA and Kona, HI
    Posts
    2,611
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 8/0
    Given: 0/0
    Quote Originally Posted by bigdrums925 View Post
    Signal going into the amp from the driver board is normal on 10K, 10J, & 10G and about equal signal strength
    Output at speaker jacks is normal until turned up past 1/2 way
    then it looks like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0528x.JPG 
Views:	30 
Size:	978.4 KB 
ID:	47382
    Taken on the 1 v per division scale
    What do you make of it?
    Do you have any dc offset on the output terminals. If there is no dc offset, what does it sound like through speakers with program music? You may have it fixed and chasing your tail.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  19. #19
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    About 1 mV DC offset, music thru sounds terrible and no gain after about 1/3 on volume
    Pic of sine wave thru with speaker connected (load)
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0529.JPG 
Views:	14 
Size:	2.66 MB 
ID:	47383
    Also at 1v per division
    Nope, not fixed. Doesn't even sound good at low volume

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  20. #20
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA and Kona, HI
    Posts
    2,611
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 8/0
    Given: 0/0
    Quote Originally Posted by bigdrums925 View Post
    About 1 mV DC offset, music thru sounds terrible and no gain after about 1/3 on volume
    Pic of sine wave thru with speaker connected (load)
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0529.JPG 
Views:	14 
Size:	2.66 MB 
ID:	47383
    Also at 1v per division
    Nope, not fixed. Doesn't even sound good at low volume
    The simple fact that both channels are distorted usually indicates a power supply problem since it’s common to both channels. I would go back to the power supply section and check all of the supplies. Make sure they are within reason, symmetrical, and have no ripple. Check any and all current limiting resistors. Use a multimeter to start.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  21. #21
    "Thermionic Apocalypse" -JT nickb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    2,755
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 12/0
    Given: 6/0
    ^^ Def check this things that olddawg mentioned. If you remove the load completely what does the output look like?

    Edit: Ah I see you already did that.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

  22. #22
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    Difficult to say for certain that all the voltages are there cause it's point to point wiring in the PS, But I think they are.
    The ripple seems ok except on the terminal strip:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0534.JPG 
Views:	30 
Size:	2.77 MB 
ID:	47393
    the voltages are ~220v and `-72v where the scope shots that follow were taken:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0533.JPG 
Views:	22 
Size:	2.58 MB 
ID:	47394
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0532.JPG 
Views:	17 
Size:	2.28 MB 
ID:	47395
    the rest of the power supply points show a flat line on the scope so I don't know what these are

    the left speaker output
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0530.JPG 
Views:	26 
Size:	2.81 MB 
ID:	47396
    right speaker output:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_0531.JPG 
Views:	26 
Size:	2.59 MB 
ID:	47397

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  23. #23
    "Thermionic Apocalypse" -JT nickb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    2,755
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 12/0
    Given: 6/0
    All the scope shots are almost meaningless without knowing the vertical scale and the horizontal scale. On one the vertical scale is far to sensitive as the signal if off the edges of the screen.

    Just get you DMM out and measure the volts on the emitters of Q11, Q12, Q13 and Q14, the associated resistors might be an easier test point. If any of those are significantly different from 36V then measure on the other side of the associated resistors.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

  24. #24
    Old Timer olddawg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Carlsbad, CA and Kona, HI
    Posts
    2,611
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 8/0
    Given: 0/0
    If you have a clean signal from the line out.. check your power supply voltages where they enter the output amp section. If something is off follow it back. I would recommend using a Multimeter or DVM if you are not totally familiar with using a scope for accurate AC/DC measurements.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  25. #25
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    The voltage on the output devices are all closely matched at +/- 37.5 v
    going back to my previous question regarding ripple, all the filtered PS voltages show a flat line on the scope
    except the 2 in the post above and the 2 pics. Any one understand why I would see a static pattern on those 2 points on the terminal strip shown in pic 1?

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  26. #26
    "Thermionic Apocalypse" -JT nickb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    2,755
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 12/0
    Given: 6/0
    You cannot interpret the scope shots without knowing (1) The Vertical scale (2) Where you are probing on the schematic. Sometimes the horizontal scale is needed too. "Terminal Strip" means nothing - i have no idea where that is on the schematic.

    Remove Q11, Q12, Q13 and Q14 and test them. https://vetco.net/blog/test-a-transi...04-12-25-37-07

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

  27. #27
    Old Timer J M Fahey's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Buenos Aires, Argentina
    Posts
    10,059
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 71/1
    Given: 71/3
    Not really getting into this, sorry but very short of time, but one point which scratches me the wrong way is that each power amp is split into TWO boards, a "driver" one (11-1002) with the differential pair front end (Q1003/1005) up to Vas (the main voltage gain stage which generates the rail to rail swing) Q1006, its active load Q1002 and "to make things interesting" Q1002 which in most amps receives just some fixed bias (1 to 2V) here it is turned into a "current mirror" by getting out of plase current fed to its base, courtesy of Q1004, which is fed out of phase signal (out of phase relative to what Q1006 receives) courtesy of Q1003 .

    This drive board generates the main rail to rail swing which is then current amplified by the "current gain transistors"
    Left Positive : Q8/12
    Left negative: Q7/11
    Right Positive: Q9/13
    Right Negative: Q10/14

    To boot, driver and output blocks are NOT shown side to side, to further obscure a circuit which already suffers from overcomplication.
    I would redraw driver and current halves on a single sheet and the usual way , so the standard power amp which is hidden in there is recognizable.

    You show distorted output waveforms, one of them unsymmetrical, (**please always** state each peak to peak value, don´t make us count screen divisions and wonder where the multiplier switch is set), which worsen a lot when trying to drive a load, so I suspect:

    * the driver board.
    Check all transistors get supply voltage (they should, but check anyway) but mainly remember that:
    a) all NPN transistors have Base some 0.6V more positive then Emitter. Never negative or, say, 5V away from Emitter.
    b) all NPN transistors have Collector more positive than emitter, always.
    c) all PNP transistors do exactly the same as a and b but with the opposite polarity.
    * Only transistors where it is normal to have zero or very low (a few mV) voltage BE or CE are the short protection ones Q3/4/5/6 because, well, they *should* not be activated until you have a real short in process.

    You should get full rail to rail swing (minus a couple Volt losses) on Q1006 collector and on Q1002, both are the same thing just separated by 2.8V bias.
    There are two driver boards, both apparently share same part numbers. The more confusion the merrier, huh?
    If the driver board can´t swing, the output pairs won´t either, as they have no voltage gain, are basically high current buffers.

    * the output/current żboard? (is it on PCB or wired PTP? )
    * IF one driver fails, coupled power transistor won´t drive a load because it missed "push" from the driver.
    * IF the power transistor blew open , or blew shorted but killed its emitter resistor in the process, the driver transistor can swing unloaded but lacks muscle to drive a speaker load. Might still drive phones though, which is confusing.

    Ok, back to sleep, it´s 4AM here.

    Good luck hunting.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Juan Manuel Fahey

  28. #28
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    Looking for the +/- 1.4v being feed from the driver boards I find only pin 10G on left channel is delivering.
    Pin 10K on both boards not working and pin 10G on right channel not working. Each of those 3 read 0.0v
    So check Q1002 & Q1003?

    * the output/current żboard? (is it on PCB or wired PTP? ) Its PTP

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  29. #29
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    * the driver board.
    Check all transistors get supply voltage (they should, but check anyway) but mainly remember that:
    a) all NPN transistors have Base some 0.6V more positive then Emitter. Never negative or, say, 5V away from Emitter.
    b) all NPN transistors have Collector more positive than emitter, always.


    Look at the schematic of the driver board 11-1002, Q1001
    As you pointed out base is .6v more positive than emitter. readings I got E 31.8v B 32.8v C 1.2v
    The schematic and my measurements are not in agreement with "all NPN transistors have Collector more positive than emitter, always"
    Am I misunderstanding your statement?

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  30. #30
    Supporting Member Jazz P Bass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Wernersville, PA
    Posts
    12,207
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 5/0
    Given: 4/0
    Q1001 is an NPN type transistor.

    Q1002 is a PNP type.
    Your voltage readings, if for Q1002, are good.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  31. #31
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    This repair is a nightmare. Take a look at the driver board schematic. Q1001, Q1003, & Q1005 on the chart are all listed as Marantz # 34-1007.
    Yet the schematic shows them as PNP & NPN devices.
    One of the driver boards has had these 3 transistors replaced with ECG 234's. PNP's

    Marantz has apparently long lost the lists that would tell us what Marantz part number equivalents are, and seemingly their authorized service centers have too.
    So I'm not sure if this unit can ever be repaired since no one seems to know what the generic part numbers are or can provide the Marantz numbered parts.
    Any one care to offer a suggestion how to solve this screwy mess?

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  32. #32
    "Thermionic Apocalypse" -JT nickb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    2,755
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 12/0
    Given: 6/0
    Quote Originally Posted by bigdrums925 View Post
    This repair is a nightmare. Take a look at the driver board schematic. Q1001, Q1003, & Q1005 on the chart are all listed as Marantz # 34-1007.
    Yet the schematic shows them as PNP & NPN devices.
    One of the driver boards has had these 3 transistors replaced with ECG 234's. PNP's

    Marantz has apparently long lost the lists that would tell us what Marantz part number equivalents are, and seemingly their authorized service centers have too.
    So I'm not sure if this unit can ever be repaired since no one seems to know what the generic part numbers are or can provide the Marantz numbered parts.
    Any one care to offer a suggestion how to solve this screwy mess?
    1) Do what Juan said "I would redraw driver and current halves on a single sheet and the usual way , so the standard power amp which is hidden in there is recognizable."
    2) Measure the DCV on each transistor, annotate the schematic you you drew with this info and then post it.

    BTW, If I wasn't getting getting +/-1.4V from the driver I'd be looking at the output stage not the driver.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

  33. #33
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Livermore, CA
    Posts
    227
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 0/0
    Given: 0/0
    I will do my best to redraw the driver & output stage together but have no experience doing that so may take some time.

    So are you saying that the output stage provides the +/- 1.4v?
    I unsoldered that wire and found no voltage coming from the output or the driver board.
    Something is very screwy here!

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!

  34. #34
    "Thermionic Apocalypse" -JT nickb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    2,755
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 12/0
    Given: 6/0
    Quote Originally Posted by bigdrums925 View Post
    I will do my best to redraw the driver & output stage together but have no experience doing that so may take some time.

    So are you saying that the output stage provides the +/- 1.4v?
    I unsoldered that wire and found no voltage coming from the output or the driver board.
    Something is very screwy here!
    I did not know you unsoldered the wire.

    The signal comes from the driver board ( actually the voltage amplifier) but the voltage is determined by the base-emitter junction of the the driver transistor (e.g. Q7) and the emitter diode drop (e.g) CR19. If are getting zero drop on one of those that would tell us something is amiss there. If you unsoldered the wire then that changes things as we can no longer be sure what is happening.

    Reconnect and measure as requested please.

    EDIT: I'll draw up something for you.

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Last edited by nickb; 03-10-2018 at 02:19 PM.
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

  35. #35
    "Thermionic Apocalypse" -JT nickb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Devon, UK
    Posts
    2,755
    Thumbs Up/Down
    Received: 12/0
    Given: 6/0
    Here is a first pass of it drawn in a more logical fashion. Still needs the component refs to be added.

    M18-1.pdf


    EDIT: ..and now with some errors fixed and component refs. The two driver boards are the same so I didn't put all the refs on the second channel. Added some currents and expected voltages.

    M18-5.pdf

    0 Not allowed! Not allowed!
    Last edited by nickb; 03-11-2018 at 09:16 AM.
    Experience is something you get, just after you really needed it.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Marantz 750DC
    By Nyqusit5 in forum Schematic Requests
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-18-2016, 07:34 AM
  2. Marantz 4430 no sound
    By pontiacpete in forum Maintenance, Troubleshooting & Repair
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-26-2015, 05:52 PM
  3. Marantz PM6004 schematic
    By blindboybenton in forum Schematic Requests
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-01-2014, 01:24 PM
  4. problem with a MARANTZ PMD350 cd
    By Jose8a in forum Music Electronics
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 09-08-2008, 05:48 AM
  5. Marantz 2285B, maybe a bit off topic, sorry
    By JC@ in forum Music Electronics
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 10-12-2007, 12:12 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •