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| | #1 |
| Old Timer Join Date: May 2006 Location: PDX
Posts: 1,265
| stepper motor traverse
Here's some stuff I've come across that looks potentially useful for a DC stepper motor traverse Here's a real basic stepper motor controller kit for $25... http://www.herbach.com/Merchant2/mer...ode=STEPMTRCTL Here's a much more useful stepper controller for larger steppers and includes a serial printer port for cnc control from a computer for $70. http://www.herbach.com/Merchant2/mer...ode=STEPMTRCTL This place sells a lot of surplus stepper motors and accessories, Noth the cheapest but you get full documentation and you can return what you can't use.. |
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| | #2 | |
| Junior Member Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6
| Quote:
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| | #3 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 6
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I'm not sure how well that board would handle microstepping. This board looks interesting to me, though I'm not quite sure how much it would end up costing: http://www.embeddedtronics.com/microsteppld.html By my math, it seems that, unless you do some severe gear reduction, you'd be heavily in the micro-stepping range with a 1.8° stepper motor directly driving a traverse. |
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| | #4 |
| Old Timer Join Date: May 2006 Location: Boston, MA area
Posts: 1,295
| For homebrew stuff, toothed pulleys and little timing belts are much easier to handle, and alignment is far less critical than for gears. Also, if one uses bearing plates or pillow blocks that allow some angular misalignment (+/- 5 degrees being typical), life is easier. One can then build using wood or MDF and use hand tools. Gears and rigid bearings almost demand a machine shop.
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| | #5 | |
| Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 6
| Quote:
Using a 1.8° stepper and 3/4" diameter pulley, one step of the motor would move the traverse approximately four thicknesses of 42AWG wire. To be able to put one wind next to the last, you'd need to either reduce the diameter of your toothed pulley to .15" or split each step into at least four microsteps. | |
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