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| | #1 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| Tweed Tremolux in the making
Had a couple of days to catch up with some cab building. This one's out made from 3/4" white pine again, but this time I've built the cab so I can use my new plunge router on all the edges. Then I'll give it a wee sanding and then me thinks I'll glue some more of that Gingham Tweed on it. I've got some metal corner brackets. I've done a slightly oversized cab and I'm trying to decide whether to put a 12" or a 15" speaker in there. Dunno how a 5G9 goes pushing a 15" speaker tho' - might be a bit too much. |
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| | #2 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| next bit
Tried out my new router today. Then since I was on a roll, I got the chassis mounted in the cab, and ploughed on with starting to wire up the PT, mains and stby switches, fuse, Heater circuit, Recto, mains grounding (see other post), and backside of the chassis wired up, (minus the filter caps). Too tired now. I'll think about the rest tomorrow.
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 439
| Makes a mess, doesn't it a 'Shopvac' to ? I don't so the chips just fly everywhere. Your amp is coming along nicely. How did you engrave your panel ? looks really nice. Are you planning to fill the grooves with paint or something ? Paul P |
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| | #4 | |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| Quote:
yep my router came with a plastic gadget, but the vaccum adjustment that I prefer to use is a wooden pole about 1.5M long with a daft bit of brush on the end :-) After pricing a proper laser engraver, (who hummed and hahhed and said it would take a couple of hours to draw up a computer file to accurately plot everything out etc for about $200, but that he couldn't do it today and I would need to bring it back in a week and leave it with him for a few days). So fortuitously, being the man I am who can't wait a couple of weeks for $200, I took the chassis to a Mr Minute down at the local Mall and said, "how good is your hand engraving?" and he said, "pretty good", so I said "can you do this, this and that?" and drew him a picture and asked "how much?" and he counted up all the letters and said "Yep that' be $42.50", then I said "fine, when will it be ready?" and he said "15 mins" and I said "can I watch?" and he said "Better not", so I left and came back in 15 mins and he only charged me $26! Well its not really top notch, but it'll do. Not sure about whether to paint it or not. | |
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| | #5 | |
| Senior Hollow State Tech Join Date: May 2006 Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 2,012
| Quote:
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| | #6 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| Inching along
Not making exactly the same cracking pace as my first build. Neverthless yesterday I did manage to get the main tag board and the bias board wired up and the control pot shafts cut to the right length. Starting to ressemble what I thought it should look like. Not sure about how these inputs should be wired. - I am currently thinking split ground, with all the pre-amp grounds and pre-filter cap ground going to an input ground lug, but which input ground lug should that be? In theory there are two input ground lugs, but I don't want a nasty ground loop if I can avoid it. Can I run all four input socket grounds to just one input ground lug? |
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| | #7 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| Chassis finished
Did the last of the wiring today and gave it a test run Mostly okay except for a blown fuse incident after one-too-many switch on and offs (See debugging forum if you want to go there). I got an EH 5U4GB in there. Maybe I should swap the recto tube and see if that makes any diff? (I've got a Sovtek "5U4G"). When I have peace of mind about the blown fuse maybe I'll relax a little bit more. Meanwhile it has a nice quiet hiss when dimed - no hums that I can detect (which I am quite pleased with touch wood). I haven't plugged my geetar into it yet, so I don't know how loud it is. The screen and plate voltages are 370V and 371V respectively and the current measured from cathode to ground (with 1R resistors on each cathode) is about 31mA per tube (at least I reckon that's what it is - I used 2 x 1% 2R in parallel for each cathode to try and get as close to 1R as possible). It has a little choke for the screen supply and 470R 3W sreen grid resistors on each tube. Going by the speaker hiss, the trem goes a little too fast overall - It seems to go a little faster than I would expect when cut, and wayyyy to fast (like a motorboat) when dimed - don't know how good that is for the 6V6s (as that is what the trem feeds directly into). There must surely be something I can tweek to change the trem speed. I have a 2m5 antilog pot (2 x 5M dual-gang pot wired in parallel) for the Speed control with a 100k wiper to ground (different wiper maybe?- bigger or smaller value?). The depth control works fine and totally cuts out the trem when cut. Here are some chassis pics |
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| | #8 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 439
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Good to hear about your build. I was going to ask since I've been needing a shot of build news and it's been pretty quiet around here. I've been lost in woodwork but I should finish that part later today. Quote:
10M pots that don't read much over 8M. If I understand your layout properly you should have 100K to ground at maximum speed and 2M to ground at 0, so if you're pots are accurate you should be even slower than the original at 0 and the same at max. What are your voltages around the tremolo triode ? Paul P | |
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| | #9 | |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| Quote:
I think the whole trem speed range needs slowing down. I'll check the trem voltages and get back. | |
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| | #10 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| Trem voltages
Okay voltages are: (Incidentally -72V bias supply, -28-29V going to the output tube grid load resistors. Grid load for each 6V6 is -23V BTW - Fender Schem suggests -27.5V, am I biased wrong? The phase splitter only measures 200V on the plate that the fender schem suggests should be 210V, and I get 189V on the plate that the schem suggests should be 200V - so maybe that's the reason? I dunno) Anyhow the trem voltages. 364V at the first plate (260V at that tridoe's cathode) All over the place on the second triode, but the highest voltage I saw on my meter was 250V on the plate and 2.2V on the cathode |
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| | #11 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
|
Okay it sounds different when I plug my geetar in. Hmm maybe the genral trem range of the speed isn't so bad after all - quite hypnotic - I hope the guys in the band can keep better time than I did this first time trying to dub myself with it - it threw me out completely! (Please excuse the playing). I didn't take the trem right up on this sample, and I didn't record the overdriven sound (which I think is superb BTW). (you need iTunes to play this file). I did notice that I labelled the speed and depth contrls the wrong way round on ther dashboard. Oh well, I'll swap the pots another time - or maybe I won't (tee hee).
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| | #12 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| Baffle and Grille cloth on
Okay - Did the baffle and grille cloth this afternoon - its starting to look a bit like my 5F2A. I'll take it to practice tomorrow night and test drive it with the band :-0
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| | #13 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Southern french alps, right by the Italian border
Posts: 752
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Hi everybody! Tubeswell, is that recording suposed to be MP3 4 or what? Doesn't work for me! But it's a way cool an amp! |
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| | #14 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
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| | #15 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Southern french alps, right by the Italian border
Posts: 752
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Okay thanks, it reads now. Well, problem with me being kind of anti mac |
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| | #16 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
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Don't let that worry you. iTunes for pC is also downloadable from the Apple website. It works almost as well on a pC as it does on a mac ;-)
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| | #17 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 439
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To slow your trem down (should you still want to) I'd replace the 100K resistor with something bigger, maybe 1M ? My speed pot is 4M (well it's supposed to be). Any chance of posting your clip in some form I can read, like mp3 ? Paul P |
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| | #18 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
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.mp3? shouldn't be a problem. I'll get a man on it right away (might be tomorrow tho' - gotta go back to work today)
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| | #19 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| .mp3 file
I shortened the clip to take out the bit which was a really embarrasing lack of co-ordination |
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| | #20 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 439
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Hey, your tremolo sounds really nice. (I guess it should coming from something called a Tremolux Was that the slowest setting ? Certainly a useable speed. Paul P |
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| | #21 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
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If I could get it slower still overall, so that it slowed down a bit more on the slowest setting and on the fastest setting, that would be good. At the moment it is wayyy to fast on the fastest setting
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| | #22 | |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| Quote:
I think I'll start with a small change tho'. I'm thinking that whereas the circuit calls for a 2M pot with 100k taper resistor, since I have the pot wired as 2M5, then I should try maybe 120k-130k taper resistor to keep the change in proportion. Last edited by tubeswell; 05-20-2008 at 07:44 PM. | |
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| | #23 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Southern french alps, right by the Italian border
Posts: 752
|
Tubes, in an oscilator, you can change the speed with several parameters, the cap can be changed too.
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| | #24 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| Oh Okay - which cap would that be? There is a .03uF coupling cap from the plate of one of the triodes, and .01uF cap in series with this leading to a 1M to the cathode of that same triode, and then another .01uF cap after that leading into the grid of that same triode and a .1uF cap in series with a 1M resistor going to the depth pot. Oops, I think I've just spotted an error in something I did.
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| | #25 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Southern french alps, right by the Italian border
Posts: 752
|
The two .01/400 or .03/400 are both in the local negative feedback loop, and both can change your speed. Changing the 1meg should also change things. |
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| | #26 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
|
Thanks again Satamax I just realised before that I hadn't installed the 1M in series with the depth pot input (- dunno how I missed that? probably where its kind of hidden next to the 0.1uF in the layout digram - pays to double check the schematic aye?), so I fixed it and at the same time changed the taper resistor on the speed pot to 120k. Now the trem does not race away on me. I'll bear those other tweeks in mind. On another note (s to speak) at the moment the output tubes are biased to deliver 22.5mA, which is probably about ballpark. I have a few unwanted vibrations to sort out in the chassis/cab, some of which should go when I cover the cab with tweedy fabric (wrap-around between the chassis and cab). I did another .mp3 file to see how the trem sound had progressed. Excuse the lack of inspired playing - still suffering the after effects of last night's encounter with too many volts. I did the 'lead' with a 'shorting lead' across the inputs of the two input stages, which makes it slightly thicker sounding I think. I still don't quite know how to set up the output stage for better saturation without overbiasing it. Any ideas? Cheers |
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| | #27 |
| Supporting Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Wellington NZ
Posts: 2,660
| slight variation yet again
Okay - was bored this afternoon and chucked in an Alnico Speaker out of one of my other amps and a 12AX7 in V1 just for the hell of it. This is the 'nother soundbyte attached. I like the way the Alnico enriches the sound and gives a slightly better freq response than the (Greenback wannabe clone) thingy (that just doesn't make the grade) that I had in there before. I also like the slightly thicker timbre from the 12AX7 in V1, but I might hunt around for a better-yet NOS specimen. This offers the potential for increased voltage leading through to the output tube grids. I tried a NOS 5751 in V1 and that was also good - a bit creamier and more quack and nearly as much gain to the average non-discerning ear. |
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| | #28 |
| Junior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Viņa del Mar, Chile
Posts: 11
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sounds awesome... wish i builded the REVIBE instead of the Reverb Unit to have this nice waving tremolo. but, well, guess i'll have to build a tremolux now :mrgreen:
__________________ Watch mi BLOG with DIY Tube amps and boutique effects: www.richon-caster.blogspot.com |
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| | #29 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 439
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Sounds great tubeswell. You wrote : Quote:
to put my reverb on the 'normal' channel, leaving the tremolo on the 'vibrato' channel. Sort of a trade off, maybe not the greatest, but I was pretty happy with the options. Then I read your bit about putting a lead across the inputs and wondered, what if I jumpered my two channels together, could I get reverb on channel two ? Yes !! With the guitar plugged into the 'high' jack of the vibrato channel I ran a jumper from the 'low' jack of the vibrato channel into the 'high' jack of the normal channel and I have both tremolo and reverb ! This is fantastic ! Thanks tubeswell ! Paul P | |
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