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Thread: favorite wire stripper for small guage wire?

  1. #1
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    favorite wire stripper for small guage wire?

    Does anyone have a suggestion for a favorite automated wire stripper for small guage wire.

    E.G. 24-26 guage.

    I wouldn't mind spending extra for a tool that works real quick and clean.

    thanks,
    mike

  2. #2
    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
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    I have been using my Paladin for decades now and still love it. One of the Stripax series

    Here is a similar one from Jensen (Stanley) speced down to 28ga, stock 412-158 and $89.


    Check it out: http://www.paladin-tools.com/view_to...&parent_id=187

    I have the PL 893

    Techni-tool sells them for $73, stock # 618PL893 and I am sure others do as well. The spec says 12-20ga, but I use it all the time on smaller wires. Center conductors on lapel mic cable for example.

    There are a number of strippers that look similar and act in similar fashion, but this one is self-adjusting. The blades are actually rows of tiny blades - almost looks like a strip of staples - instead of a single blade all the way across. This allows them to form fit around the conductor in the wire while cutting through the insulation. The thickness setting on it doesn't set the space between the striping blades, it sets the tension or pressure they put onto the wire.

    The orange thingie is a depth stop, you can move it around to make multiple strips all the same length.

    There are other fancy mechanically intricate strippers that work well, they clamp the wire on both sides, then cut the insulation with sized dies, then pulls the sides apart. These work well, but you have to line the wire up in the dies. The Paladin with the rows of little feeler blades requires no alignment. Just stick the wire in there, and anywhere along the blade it will strip. I can stick two wires in side by side and strip them both - like stripping zip cord for example. I can even take small sections fo ribbon cable - three conductors maybe - and strip that.

    It is one of my favorite tools.
    Last edited by Enzo; 10-16-2008 at 02:52 AM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member dwhutchens's Avatar
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    My electronics teacher in high school wouldn't let us use the "fancy strippers". He made us learn to do it with diagonal cutters. I still hate doing it that way. I bought these at Lowes:

    http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...-92&lpage=none

    I was skeptical because of the price but they are about 2 years old and still work.
    David

  4. #4
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    thanks Enzo,

    best,
    mike


    edit to add: thanks DW

  5. #5
    Old Timer Gtr_tech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwhutchens View Post
    My electronics teacher in high school wouldn't let us use the "fancy strippers". He made us learn to do it with diagonal cutters. I still hate doing it that way. I bought these at Lowes:

    http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...-92&lpage=none

    I was skeptical because of the price but they are about 2 years old and still work.
    David
    Hah! I normally use Xcelite 170m cutters as dual purpose cutters/strippers. Just used to it I guess...one less tool to hunt for. For teflon jacketed wire I'll use an Ideal "T-stripper".
    The farmer takes a wife, the barber takes a pole....

  6. #6
    Capacitater Steve Conner's Avatar
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    I use an Ideal T-Stripper too, and diagonal cutters or a pocket knife for wire sizes that don't suit any of the T-Stripper's holes.

    I never got the hang of the fancy automated strippers. My office mate at work has this weird thermal wire stripper with hot blades that melt the insulation off, and I practically start a fire every time I use it.
    "Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"

  7. #7
    Member Suburbanite's Avatar
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    Teeth, just check its not live

  8. #8
    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
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    That's why I love my Paladin - no holes to line up with, no aiming. Just stick the wire end into the jaw and squeeze - no more complex than using a stapler.

  9. #9
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    Enzo,
    That feature seems really useful.

    I started stripping wire with a hand me down pocket knife that my Dad used when he started with at Con Ed. That was thirty five years ago.

    I've been using a simple combo crimper/stripper or an Xacto knife for a long time.

    I'm at the point where my least favorite part about soldering is stripping the small wires.

    I have a project coming up where I need to prepare 32 *quad* style microphone cables and just thinking about stripping the 26g wire was disheartening.

    I've known there were some good tools for this but never sought them out.

    I think I'll give the Paladin a try.

    best regards,
    mike


    edit to add:

    Enzo, Do you think the Paladin will be suitable for something like Canare StarQuad mic cable? I usually have very little wire extending from the primary (multiconductor) insulation. Will the Paladin fit in that close?

    thanks,
    mike
    Last edited by mike_mccue; 10-16-2008 at 03:05 PM.

  10. #10
    Old Timer Gtr_tech's Avatar
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    For mic cable its usually better to use a stripper thats intended for coax.....one of those adjustable ones that you clamp onto the cable and spin around.
    The farmer takes a wife, the barber takes a pole....

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    I usually get the main insulator off with an Xacto and pick the braid apart with a dental pick.

    It's the 4 (twisted-twisted pair) 26 gauge wires found within the braid that I am trying to save time stripping.

    best regards,
    mike

  12. #12
    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
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    I don't know on the current model, but I suspect the dimensions are similar. On mine the blades are back about 6mm from the tip of the snout, so to strip the small inner conductor, there must be at least 6mm of it exposed from the larger jacketing plus the amount you want to leave bare when done.

    Order from a realible retailer so it can be returned if it doesn;t meet your needs.

  13. #13
    Supporting Member Steve A.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suburbanite View Post
    Teeth, just check its not live

    Ya beat me to it! I would normally torch the end a bit with my lighter first- sometimes for 28ga wire you could then strip it off with your fingernails (and save your teeth for something more important- like gnawing on trees!)

    Steve Ahola

  14. #14
    Senior Member Enzo's Avatar
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    When I look in the miror at my $1500 tooth and his other expensive buddies, the last thing on my mind is "Gee, I bet I could strip wires with these."

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    Thanks very much.

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    +1 for Enzo, this is indeed one slick tool. The current model (stripax Pro 6 1113) is spec'ed from 10-28 AWG wire, and is actually available for $68. That might seem pricy considering there are other types available for between 5 and $30 or so, but it can be easy to nick or even cut the wire with those, and I'm a sucker for tools that work really well. Besides, you can't even get your pearly whites cleaned for $68 anymore, can you?

    MPM

  17. #17
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    I just wanted to drop a quick note:

    I got the Paladin a while ago... It works great. Thanks!

  18. #18
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    http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...3757-2+(330013)
    I've used these for years. Side cuts can nick the wire and cause a weak (break) point.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 675-0020_large.jpg  

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    enzo have you specifically used the paladin w/ teflon 18awg? Wanna make sure because teflon wire is the only reason I'm upgrading my strippers.

  20. #20
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    For PTFE you want the Mini-stripax Plus, model 1115p. See the listings here, e.g.:

    Wire Strippers: Discount Prices on Wire Strippers at ITC Electronics

    MPM

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    right on thanks! just ordered it.

  22. #22
    Senior Member tedmich's Avatar
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    these are nice:

  23. #23
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    PATCO thermal stripper.

    The PTS-10 Patco Inc wire strippers, thermal wire stripper, wire stripper cutter, wire cutter, cable stripper, coaxial cable stripper, wire stripping, cable stripping tool

    You'll never use another mechanical stripper after using a thermal stripper.

    I got my PTS-10 from ebay for $30.

  24. #24
    Capacitater Steve Conner's Avatar
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    My colleague at work has a thermal stripper. He tried to convince me of its value, but I hate the thing with a passion. Diagonal cutters and an Ideal T-stripper all the way for me.

    He also likes Teflon wire, and I can't stand that either.
    "Enzo, I see that you replied parasitic oscillations. Is that a hypothesis? Or is that your amazing metal band I should check out?"

  25. #25
    Old Timer defaced's Avatar
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    He also likes Teflon wire, and I can't stand that either.
    I'm starting to feel the same way. I've only used 22ga stranded, but it's a royal pain to strip anything shorter than 3" because the wire slips in my hand. It's great for repeated soldering, but aside from that, it's not fun to work with, and it's expensive.
    -Mike

    Humor is the best alternative to serial killing. - Chuck H

  26. #26
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    Teflon wire is a pain, however I believe w/ a thermal stripper or the RIGHT stripping tool it may be great. (waiting for my new strippers) I do know that teflon is my first choice, as it can be bent over and over, tugged on etc... and it holds up. How many repair techs have spent valuable time replacing or resoldering broken cheap pvc insulated wire while inside a repair? I think the bit of trouble involved in stripping the wire is worth it in the long run.

  27. #27
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    +1 on thermal strippers and teflon wire. Never had much luck with the Paladin teflon wire stripper though.

  28. #28
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    uh oh... i guess we'll see.

  29. #29
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    just got 'em... work great on my 22awg teflon wire!!

  30. #30
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    Having worked in aerospace for 21 years I will tell you that we were only allowed to use silver coated wire with Teflon insulation and we were only allowed to use thermal strippers. If you are catching the wire coating on fire when stripping, you need to turn the voltage down on the strippers. Thermal strippers are used to avoid breaking strands in the wires.

    We were also not allowed to use flux in our soldering as it contaminated the solder joints and weakened them.

    Avoid breathing solder fumes.

    We also were not allowed to heat the solder with the soldering tip. We had to apply the solder tip to the part that was to be soldered and have the solder melt onto the other side of the part allowing the solder to wick it's way through and around the part finally reaching the soldering tip on the other side. This assured the parts were hot enough and the solder was adhering well TO the parts and not just melting around the parts.

    Just some tips from a Military Certified solderer.
    Last edited by 1971SuperLead; 01-16-2010 at 05:26 AM. Reason: Just for better clarification

  31. #31
    Supporting Member gbono's Avatar
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    I wonder what the final alloy is with silver (Ag) tinned wire with (Sn/Pb) solder since it's a 3 element alloy?

    I worked for HP for 20 years and discovered the hard way that too thick of gold (Au) plating on PCBs and connectors created brittle unreliable solder joints.

  32. #32
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    I take it back... no worky.

    NOW, I cannot find anyone selling the CT100 anymore. Anyone know where to get 'em? Or something alike?

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