dovetail jigs.. argh!!

[The Captain]

hi, I really need help here. The basics of a simple router dovetail jig are easily found on www, clips etc.. but its still completely puzzling me!

Ive just got a simple dewalt dovetail jig, checking that at 12" width by 1" max stock thickness I can dovetail, well, 9" wide by 3/4" thick pine together (for a std combo cab joint). If only it was this simple..

the template when placed over the 2 set wood pieces can clearly only go 5mm into the horizontal piece.. so I can't make a dovetail?!?

also can s'one clear this up: the bush that attatches to the router seem to be made so that it rubs/ is in flush contact with the metal template as the bush seems ONLY to slide in/out of the grooves like so, ie I presume this is for safety so one cannot lift the router & bit up into the metal (again I presume- this is highly dangerous?). But with bush attatched, the router still needs the thin placcy baseplate or A) the bush screws will jar slightly and B) for a proper steady router. But this placcy plate leaves the bush recessed slightly.. meaning it now 'sticks'/ doesn't slide in/out the grooves?!?

Also how do I jnow what depth to set the bit to?

Im completely baffled.. sorry for long post but help, please! thx capt

[dwhutchens]

The Captain;77955]hi, I really need help here. The basics of a simple router dovetail jig are easily found on www, clips etc.. but its still completely puzzling me!

Ive just got a simple dewalt dovetail jig, checking that at 12" width by 1" max stock thickness I can dovetail, well, 9" wide by 3/4" thick pine together (for a std combo cab joint). If only it was this simple..

the template when placed over the 2 set wood pieces can clearly only go 5mm into the horizontal piece.. so I can't make a dovetail?!?

Sounds like a blind dovetail jig for drawer fronts, the pins don't go all the way through so you cant see them from the front.

also can s'one clear this up: the bush that attatches to the router seem to be made so that it rubs/ is in flush contact with the metal template as the bush seems ONLY to slide in/out of the grooves like so, ie I presume this is for safety so one cannot lift the router & bit up into the metal (again I presume- this is highly dangerous?). But with bush attatched, the router still needs the thin placcy baseplate or A) the bush screws will jar slightly and B) for a proper steady router. But this placcy plate leaves the bush recessed slightly.. meaning it now 'sticks'/ doesn't slide in/out the grooves?!?

You kinda lost me in this paragraph

Also how do I jnow what depth to set the bit to?

Generally you have to make some test pieces and adjust the bit depth for a tight fitting dovetail

Im completely baffled.. sorry for long post but help, please! thx capt

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

[The Captain]

thanks for trying to help- so Ive bought a 'blind' dovetail jig then which is totally useless for cabinets..? if the thing was sold as a 'blind dt jig' then I'd have bloomin known..

Ive phoned deWalt/ B&D re the bush, but nearly impossible to explain.. in short: bush into template, my Q A) are these two designed to work flush against each other? (if so the screws pretrude slightly, so they jarr-??) or

B) should there be a tiny gap between the two? (if so then the bush jams in the template as the bush centre in slightly convex-??)

thoughrally confused me. Capt

[The Captain]

so how the f*k are std dovetails made then??? (apart from by hand, nuts to that!).

if I buy a machine for making a car, I expect a car to pop out. Not a van truck or a boat. a car. argh bllx!!

[stokes]

You can make a guitar cab with blind dovetails.They arent as ornamental but they are quite strong.It is very frustrating as well as uses a lot of scrap pieces till you get it just right.I've stopped using my "dovetail jig" for the router and now use my table saw with a dado blade,it is still very tedious,but not as bad as the router set-up.I havent looked at the jig I have for the router in quite a few years,but I believe to make a regular dovetail you need to use a "straight" bit instead of the conical shaped "dovetail" bit.The directions that come with the jig should tell you if you can make a standard joint.

[stokes]

Just went and had a look at my jig,I think what you want is a "box joint jig".

[cminor9]

+1 on the table saw suggestion. I make box joints on the table saw and they turn out great. If you are going with a natural wood finish, then dovetails might be a nice detail. But if you're just gonna cover the cab in tolex, go with 3/4" box joints and move on with life. Box joints are strong as all getout. I sit on my cabs all the time, and I am 6'2" and about 240lbs. They are rock solid.

[The Captain]

hi Mr. Stokes.. yes I think a box joint jig is what I really need- thing is I did try and find such a beastie, but it seems there just aren't any fs here at all, well certainly not affordable jigs like my £40 odd deWalt ($80 US). Ideally a tablesaw/ box jig sure is the best- but your talking well over £100 just for the saw, besides I dont have room for a tablesaw, plus I have a decent router here..

decorative joints is not what I need as I'll always tweed cover a cabinet: all I want is just a strong well made joint, without any cleats/ bracing which just get in the way of the baffle.

I wonder what happens if I used a straight bit with this template (if I can work out the f*&kg bush into template nonsense), so routering one piece at a time, both in the jig's vertical position..? I'd need to allow for exactly the correct offset between pieces obviously.. but on paper thats a good sized box joint right there, is it not?

[The Captain]

yes, but as I said box joint jig is out of the Q.. tablesaw + jig = £200/ $400 min? just to make a couple of cabs?