If i want to attenuate the signal at the output buffer and amplify it at the input buffer.
Is there a smart way to install a dual potentiometer so that the attenuation and amplification are linked?
eg, i lower the loop output level by 6dB and the input buffer amplifies if by 6dB.
Hi guys, i'm new and i got here because im passionate about building this amp. I have the schemo, a possible layout, the value of all the resistors and caps. Now i have a question, there are a bunch of types of caps, it doesnt matter which ones i use? or should i use electrolityc/ceramic or whatever?
It would help a lot a "sort of" list of mats for this amp, if anyone has the time. Thanks in advance
Hey there! im new, and ready to start in this world of amp making.
So far i've got this schemo and this possible layout (mind telling me if this is corret?)
My problem is that there is a lot of types of caps, and the schem doesnt say which one is. So, does it matter the type of cap? or it wont affect the tone/functionality of the amp?
If someone could make some sort of list of mats for this amp that would be awesome.
For the Filter capacitors and the cathode bypass capacitors, use electrolytic caps. The rest will use any regular type of cap. Many (maybe even most) will debate that this type of cap will sound better in this position, but especially as a newbie, it's best just to use regular capacitors. Probably the most regular would be orange drop. Maybe disk caps. It doesn't matter. Just get the right values.
Good luck with your future endeavors. I've had a lot of fun and learned a lot building/modifying/repairing amps.
For the Filter capacitors and the cathode bypass capacitors, use electrolytic caps. The rest will use any regular type of cap. Many (maybe even most) will debate that this type of cap will sound better in this position, but especially as a newbie, it's best just to use regular capacitors. Probably the most regular would be orange drop. Maybe disk caps. It doesn't matter. Just get the right values.
Good luck with your future endeavors. I've had a lot of fun and learned a lot building/modifying/repairing amps.
Great, so, correct me if im wrong, but the filter caps are the ones with 400 - 450V ?
Another thing im curious is the Volts for the rest of the caps. As far as i know, the resistances are 1/4 w unless its noted another w, but i've read that 1w resistors are less noisy. so, what would you recomend?
The filter caps are the big ones in the power supply. And they will be around 450-500v caps. Electrolytic. Remember the cathode bypass caps will be electrolytic also. Lower voltages though.
Regarding the resistors, it's not the wattage that determines it, it's more of the type of resistor that makes it different. Kind of like the differences between cap designs. It's not too important, but if you are good at selecting it does help. Just read up on all the different kinds of resistors and the different types of caps that aren't electrolytic.
You could use 50v's if you want. The preamp tubes should exceed more than 3v. and if my memory is correct (it's a bit fuzzy...) the EL84 cathode should be around 10-20ish on most el84 amps. I think I usually end up using 100v caps on the el84 cathodes on my el84 amps, but that was just because that value happened to be 100v when I dug around in the bins. You should be able to go 50v though. Anyone else want to pitch in?
As i was searching for another layout, i found this amazing schematic with a really nice layout from a russian web. It works perfectly according to the comments so i wanna share it with you guys. It has the 7/15 watts switch, im planning on doing it without it and replace that switch with a standby switch. In that case i should use the admiral's schem, right?
Although, i could make it with that 7/15 w option...it doesnt seem to be much harder that way.
My first thought was that a couple of the components had been changed, but it happened to just be conversions. Like .0001 vs 100pf. I then realized that they were just writing it different. Because I couldn't quite remember the other circuit perfectly, at first.
And I'm not sure of what most people have been talking about (earlier in the thread), but since this amp is cathode biased, the half power switch theoretically should work fine. If this were fixed bias, it would need something to scale... Am I missing something?
one thing i found interesting is that the PT gives 295V, and i calculated 250V. Maybe its because it uses 2 diodes insted of 4? could be the 7/15 switch?
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