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  • Locktite

    Anyone use locktite ? Anyone curse those that do ?

  • #2
    Loctite is a company/brand name. There are many Loctite products for different purposes.
    https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/...s/loctite.html

    What application do you have in mind?
    - Own Opinions Only -

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    • #3
      There is type that is for preventing loose screws and there is permanent stuff that will not break free before the fastener does. The latter stuff is a nightmare I agree.
      The usual blue loctite is removable. I use it all the time and it is no problem.
      The red loctite is more permanent and is specified by loctite as 'can only be removed by heating the parts to 500F'.
      So if you can't get something undone, bring the heat.
      "Everything is better with a tube. I have a customer with an all-tube pacemaker. His heartbeat is steady, reassuring and dependable, not like a modern heartbeat. And if it goes wrong he can fix it himself. You can't do that with SMD." - Mick Bailey

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      • #4
        I use loctite/thread lock. It gives peace of mind.

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        • #5
          I was thinking for mounting screws for sockets and transformers , maybe for ground lugs , maybe everything . I would use the reversable kind .

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          • #6
            I *always* lock anything with threads, from mounting screws to jack nuts, go figure, but instead of purpose made adhesives, my go to product for the last 50 years has been a drop of transparent nitro paint base, think glorified/dumbed down nail enamel or balsa plane adhesive, just buy a can of the base paint which is transparent, waiting for pigment tubes to be added, which I donīt, and leave them opened for a couple days so they reach a useful thickness.

            Works like a charm, better than Loctite: it dries hard so it avoids vibration/transport "self disassembly" but cracks easily under tool pressure, it does not really "stick" to non porous materials such as metal or plastic.

            I use Nitro but Acrylic base works also well, just donīt mix them.

            Click image for larger version

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            Juan Manuel Fahey

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            • #7
              Think I'll get a tube .

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              • #8
                I like to use "Nyloc" nuts on screws.

                https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyloc_nut
                Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.

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                • #9
                  Worked on lots of mil-equipment that use it from the factory. Crank up the soldering iron to 850 and hold on the bolt, loosens right up.

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                  • #10
                    another nice thing about Loctite is being an anaerobic sealant it keeps for YEARS in the bottle, I still have some 271 around here from a job 30 yrs ago...A friend had an auto mechanic dad, swore by a similar shade of red nail polish but it doesn't work the same...

                    Juan's trick with nitro to coat nuts works great but a deep bolt or machine screw really needs Loctite!

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                    • #11
                      Oh, yes, on a real machine such as a car engine, a drill press, etc. you need the real stuff.
                      It stands vibration better, high temperature, impact, etc.

                      My use is for light "electronics job" loads, such as jacks, PCB holders, etc. , the idea being simply to avoid vibration effects.

                      Not own invention either, 60īs 70īs Japanese Electronics always used some kind of red - purple - green light enamel on screws.
                      Great "messing around" indicators: untouched from Factory ones made a sharp "tick" sound (adhesive cracking) and then turned freely, messed ones did not.

                      Funny when owners SWORE on a stack of Bibles "no, I did not touch it, didnīt even look inside" .... REALLY???
                      Juan Manuel Fahey

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                      • #12
                        I use a various grades of loctite for engine rebuilds and machinery, but not for most amp work. I have some pretty tough red lacquer that's thick and holds fasteners nicely, but with my own builds use star or spring washers and sometimes Nyloc nuts. The strongest Loctite I use is green 638 and the strength is really impressive. The first time I used it I subsequently needed to remove the parts - a hub fitted to a splined gearbox shaft and held with an M14 nut, which kept coming lose. Even with heat it took me 6 hours to get everything separated. It got reassembled with yellow medium strength 641 which holds really well but will actually come apart if needed.

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                        • #13
                          I agree with Juan on the enamel., whether electronics or firearm fasteners nail polish seems to hold well!

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                          • #14
                            I like to use loctite blue here and there, red is evil.
                            The only good solid state amp is a dead solid state amp. Unless it sounds really good, then its OK.

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                            • #15
                              Attached is a Loctite/Henkel cheat sheet I made to help with their (seemingly) infinite varieties.

                              Their 6 series is indeed one bad mofo Mick! 300 fl/lb breakaway on the 6(3/4)8 !

                              Loctite.pdf

                              their 220 (low) and 290 (high) are good choices to wick into nuts you'd like to stay secure (grounds, trannies etc.)
                              Attached Files

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