1x12“ Combo Cab for Fender Bandmaster Reverb TFL5005D

[Zouto]

Hi, I need plans/ drawings for a 1 x2“ combo cab for a trusty Fender Bandmaster Reverb TFL5005D chassis. Since I am no cabinetrist at all, a woodworking friend will/shall build it for me.
Any help and informations much appreciated
Zouto

[J M Fahey]

Just as a starter, here are generic/typical Fender small combo cabinet plans, notice they do NOT carry exact dimensions, which you can scale to suit.

[Chuck H]

I believe that amp is about the same width (or a tad narrower, like an eighth inch) than a Deluxe Reverb. And I think all the Fender chassis were homogeneous in height and front slant. If there were a 1/16" gap at either end of the chassis at the sides of the cabinet there are ways to deal with that. I've done it. Maybe the chrome top strip screw plate holes would be different.?. I dunno. I can't be sure that the larger tubes or transformers would allow room for the speaker, but probably. But it's likely you could just buy a Deluxe Reverb cabinet.

[Zouto]

I think the following dimensions should fit: 19" x 25" x 10½" (48.3 x 63.5 x 26.7 cm), chassis cut-out 59,7 cm, similar to width and depth dimensions of a Vibroverb or a Super Reverb cabinet, but for 1x12" speaker cut-out (offset?). I‘d like to avoid experimental trial- & error-cabinetry.

[J M Fahey]

I‘d like to avoid experimental trial- & error-cabinetry.

Same here , but once you have the chassis, iron and tubes, even if unmounted, plus speaker, "every other dimension can be negotiated" , so you can basically decide cabinet height and depth ... width closely tracks chassis width.

Of course, in a minimum size cabinet, take care to avoid speaker magnet (or even frame) bumping into glass or iron.

Mesa Boogie´s Randall Smith famously cut a chassis sized styrofoam rectangle and punched all parts there to check REAL footprint and height constraints ... not a bad idea at all.

[Zouto]

Thanks Juan, as soon as I got all that stuff on my bench, I‘ll start serious measuring. Also, remembering the last installation of a Fender chassis into a custom cabinet, the final drag will be drilling the mounting holes for chassis straps....

[Bill Moore]

I find drilling the mounting holes after the cab is completed works for me. One can adjust the setback, just move it into position, and punch a mark through the chassis. Remove the chassis, and drill a small hole to to top. Carefully cut around the hole in the tolex to keep the larger bit from tearing it, and drill the hole to size.

[Zouto]

Most measurements are done except the correct angle of the chassis front. Since the faceplate is a bit deformed, I measure values of 64 and 66 degrees. So what´s the correct front angle, 65 degrees?

[Bill Moore]

I just put an angle finder on a Twin cab I have here, and it is 65 degrees.

[Zouto]

I just put an angle finder on a Twin cab I have here, and it is 65 degrees.

Bill, thanks, I‘ll go for 65 degrees.
Zouto

[Randall]

What did you get for the angle of the baffle?

[Zouto]

What did you get for the angle of the baffle?

Well, here‘s my plan, so you can get the angles easily. I finished the cab yesterday, so next step is that %&§#≠>¿$£¥ drilling of the chassis mounting holes.....