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The making of an eyelet board...

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  • #31
    Originally posted by J M Fahey View Post
    Now you have a long relatively narrow strip of ¿MDF? as the bottom of your back speaker panel.

    I would cut a long narrow strip of said material (maybe from the routed out oblong strip material), say 1 cm narrower on top and bottom so it´s invisible, 2 or 3 cm shorter at each end so it clears the mounting cleats, and glue it along the bottom strip for added strength, on the inside of course.
    [ATTACH=CONFIG]49992[/ATTACH]


    Leo would have cut two smaller oblong holes instead, leaving center untouched for strength but you already cut, so ....

    Thanks JM,

    I made the back panel out of what we call "Masonite" or "Hardboard".
    Very similar to what was used for the original.

    It's 1/4" thick and fairly stiff with the Tolex on it.

    Breakage was/is a slight concern... I thought about reinforcing it with something, but it seems fine.
    It does vibrate somewhat when playing loud but doesn't add any noise that I can hear.
    It was so easy to make I could do another with the double cutouts if it gets damaged.

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    As you can see I have not yet applied any shielding foil.
    I plan to, but the amp is quiet even without it.
    If it ain't broke I'll fix it until it is...
    I have just enough knowledge to be dangerous...

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    • #32
      As you can see I have not yet applied any shielding foil.
      Just make sure the foil is grounded via chassis contact, if you do (shouldn't be a problem). Otherwise the foil could make things worse.
      - Own Opinions Only -

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      • #33
        Originally posted by galaxiex View Post

        Thanks!.... but full disclosure...

        There is quite a bit of wiring on the back of the eyelet board...

        [ATTACH=CONFIG]49555[/ATTACH]

        I thought to make the top side wiring less "busy"
        So what you see there is mostly power and grounds and a little bias wiring.

        I'm not sure if you're "supposed to" do this... or not...
        Never seen it done before so IDK.

        I'm sure this will come back to bite me in the a**....

        Indeed it already has...

        I mounted the eyelet board with spacers above the insulating card...
        and with the volume and bass turned up the eyelet card "buzzes" with the low E string.
        Had to shove some foam in there to stop the buzz.

        OR... a short or broken wire under there will cause no end of grief... I'm sure...
        When I was designing the layout and board wiring for my amp, I did the same thing you did (for the same reasons).

        Click image for larger version

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        There are some practical benefits in utilizing the 3-dimensional space. But the primary reason I did this was for aesthetic reasons so It would I could keep a clean looking build.
        I will NEVER do this again. If you have to make any corrections to your layout, or you need access to service/troubleshoot the amp, it's an absolute nightmare. I've had to do all of those things on this build. This is particularly frustrating now that I work as a professional technician. It makes for a much longer, more expensive repair when amps come in for service and the amp maker wires the amp with a lot of under-board wiring, and doesn't provide any service loop in the wiring so you can at least lift the board enough to get a soldering iron in there without major disassembly.

        If I was going to incorporate under board wiring going forward, the chassis would have to have a removable panel to access the entire underside of the board(much like Ampeg V4s - SVTs). But that kind of fabrication is not really practical unless I were to do a production run. It's enough of a pain in the ass to punch a square hole for fused IEC inlets for diy builds.

        Nice Quality build, by the way.






        If I have a 50% chance of guessing the right answer, I guess wrong 80% of the time.

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