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I love the 5e3. Just not mine! Please help.

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  • JohnRose81
    replied
    With regards to #1, is there anything I can do about this? Should I re-read with and without tubes? Would the speaker or guitar being plugged in change this value? If the volumes were turned up would this affect it?

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  • g1
    replied
    Originally posted by JohnRose81 View Post
    I read 70 off the fuse tabs and zero on the light tabs.
    Originally posted by JohnRose81 View Post
    Going to get a digital multimeter today so I can get more accurate readings! Yay for that.
    Good, the voltage at the fuseholder should read 120V, or whatever is coming out of your wall outlet.
    So there are 3 possible reasons for the 70V reading:
    1) there really is only 70V at the fuseholder due to faulty wiring in the house or amp AC wiring.
    2) the meter is defective/inaccurate/damaged
    3) you are reading the wrong scale of the meter

    Whatever the case may be, you want a meter that can read more than 300V anyway.

    Edit: with new meter, repeat measurements from post #6

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  • JohnRose81
    replied
    Going to get a digital multimeter today so I can get more accurate readings! Yay for that.

    Leave a comment:


  • JohnRose81
    replied
    I read 70 off the fuse tabs and zero on the light tabs. The power transformer is mojo 756 HTS-8051 9961403. 120v only.
    On my meter I have a ohm section. A v.mA section and a ac10v section. The v.mA goes to 250. That's what was being pegged. It's a M1015B I got from Home Depot.

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  • g1
    replied
    What do you measure in AC volts from either side of the fuse holder to ground? And AC at either green of the pilot light to ground?

    I'm not sure which power transformer they are using but I think it should be (at the red) more like 320AC, not 220. Is there a number on it? Does it have multiple taps for export use or is it for 120V only?

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  • JohnRose81
    replied
    Thank you for the quick responses. I get 220 at the red wire on the 5y3 socket with no tube. With a tube, all the 3 pins for the 6v6's are pegging my meter which goes to 300. I hear a slight static from the speaker when this happens.

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  • g1
    replied
    You have to have the 5Y3 in or you will get nothing.
    But before you put it in, check the AC voltage from one of the reds at the 5Y3 socket to ground.
    Then put the 5Y3 back in and check the DC on those filter caps leaving the other tubes removed.

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  • JohnRose81
    replied
    I take that back, my mistake. I had the wrong setting on the meter. All filters and 3 pins are Zero responsive with no tubes.

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  • JohnRose81
    replied
    Interesting. With tubes the filter caps read (from left to right) 250, 200, 150. Without they are all around 12. The 3 pins on the 6v6's are around 12 without tubes also. And for the record, I removed all tubes.

    Also, before all of this, I reversed the speaker wire since the Jensen didn't have a + or - marketing. So after looking at reference images, I know it's not that.

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  • g1
    replied
    With 6V6 tubes removed, what is the DC voltage at pin3 of 6V6 sockets?

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  • JohnRose81
    replied
    Haha. Yes 220k. I'm sorry.

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  • g1
    replied
    Originally posted by JohnRose81 View Post
    220 2w bleed resistors on each filter cap.
    I hope you mean 220K, otherwise remove them and repost the new voltage readings.

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  • JohnRose81
    replied
    Yes. Calibrated.


    And yes, I suppose bleeders are a mod. 220 2w bleed resistors on each filter cap.

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  • g1
    replied
    Are you very confident about the accuracy of that meter? Do you have another you can try? Or how about checking what it reads for AC voltage at your wall outlet.

    Another thing, you said no mods, but you also said you added bleeder resistors for the filter caps (that would be a mod ). What value and wattage did you use for the bleeders?

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  • JohnRose81
    replied
    I really need to learn the flow through this circuit so I can understand what ya mean. I know what all those are but outside of that, no.

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