I love the 5e3. Just not mine! Please help.

[JohnRose81]

Interesting. With tubes the filter caps read (from left to right) 250, 200, 150. Without they are all around 12. The 3 pins on the 6v6's are around 12 without tubes also. And for the record, I removed all tubes.

Also, before all of this, I reversed the speaker wire since the Jensen didn't have a + or - marketing. So after looking at reference images, I know it's not that.

[JohnRose81]

I take that back, my mistake. I had the wrong setting on the meter. All filters and 3 pins are Zero responsive with no tubes.

[g1]

You have to have the 5Y3 in or you will get nothing.
But before you put it in, check the AC voltage from one of the reds at the 5Y3 socket to ground.
Then put the 5Y3 back in and check the DC on those filter caps leaving the other tubes removed.

[JohnRose81]

Thank you for the quick responses. I get 220 at the red wire on the 5y3 socket with no tube. With a tube, all the 3 pins for the 6v6's are pegging my meter which goes to 300. I hear a slight static from the speaker when this happens.

[g1]

What do you measure in AC volts from either side of the fuse holder to ground? And AC at either green of the pilot light to ground?

I'm not sure which power transformer they are using but I think it should be (at the red) more like 320AC, not 220. Is there a number on it? Does it have multiple taps for export use or is it for 120V only?

[JohnRose81]

I read 70 off the fuse tabs and zero on the light tabs. The power transformer is mojo 756 HTS-8051 9961403. 120v only.
On my meter I have a ohm section. A v.mA section and a ac10v section. The v.mA goes to 250. That's what was being pegged. It's a M1015B I got from Home Depot.

[JohnRose81]

Going to get a digital multimeter today so I can get more accurate readings! Yay for that.

[g1]

I read 70 off the fuse tabs and zero on the light tabs.

Going to get a digital multimeter today so I can get more accurate readings! Yay for that.

Good, the voltage at the fuseholder should read 120V, or whatever is coming out of your wall outlet.
So there are 3 possible reasons for the 70V reading:
1) there really is only 70V at the fuseholder due to faulty wiring in the house or amp AC wiring.
2) the meter is defective/inaccurate/damaged
3) you are reading the wrong scale of the meter

Whatever the case may be, you want a meter that can read more than 300V anyway.

Edit: with new meter, repeat measurements from post #6

[JohnRose81]

With regards to #1, is there anything I can do about this? Should I re-read with and without tubes? Would the speaker or guitar being plugged in change this value? If the volumes were turned up would this affect it?

[g1]

Keep speaker attached at all times. Reread voltages from post #6 with tubes in.
No point doing anything until you verify your meter.
You can take it into a room where you know the outlets are working properly, check what the AC volts reading is at the outlet, does the meter read 120V? If you get a good 120V reading, the meter is not the problem.

[JohnRose81]

So the multimeter is spot on. Put all the tubes in. Plugged the speaker up. Touched the 6 pin on all the tubes except the rectifier tube. The 6v6's registered zero. The preamp tubes popped really loud when I touched them. Once the ax7 read 120. But they just pop and make loud noises and read zero. Cold solder? I re soldered the wires back on the pins. No avail. Would it be the soldering of those wires on the fiberboard? I'll try. Any suggestions?

[eschertron]

So the multimeter is spot on. Put all the tubes in. Plugged the speaker up. Touched the 6 pin on all the tubes except the rectifier tube. The 6v6's registered zero. The preamp tubes popped really loud when I touched them. Once the ax7 read 120. But they just pop and make loud noises and read zero. Cold solder? I re soldered the wires back on the pins. No avail. Would it be the soldering of those wires on the fiberboard? I'll try. Any suggestions?

I think g-one wants you to get readings as per the pins you read in post number six, not necessarily on pin 6 of each tube. Having said that, pin 6 of the preamp tubes is a plate, so it is connected to the grid of the following tube. The popping sound is a good indication that signal is getting through!
Can you AC versus DC volts on your meter? Selecting AC with no signal will give you zero on the pin 6 of the preamp tubes. With a test signal applied to the amp, AC on pin 6 would be a valuable number to have.

[JohnRose81]

I don't know the names of the tubes but I started right to left calling the 12ay7 v1 and v5 is the 5y3
F1 is the filter cap closest to the power supply and f3 is the on on the far right.


V1 1:75 2:0 3:0 4:0 5:0 6:75 7:0 noise 8:0 9:0
V2 1:100 2:0 3:0 4:0 5:0 6:125 7:5 8:25 9:0
V3 2:0 3:210 4:190 5:0 6:0 7:0 8:10
V4 2:0 3:210 4:190 5:0 6:0 7:0 8:10
V5 2:210 4:0 6:0 8:210
F1 210
F2 190
F3 145
Fuse top post dc 0 ac 70
Fuse bottom post dc 0 ac 7
Light top post 0 for ac and dc
Light lower post 0 for ac and dc

Ac value on 12ay7 is 155 and ac value on 12ax7 is over 250. I can only go to 250

[JohnRose81]

Maybe new power tubes are needed...

[g1]

I take it that you are still using the same meter. For measuring the DC at pins 3 and 8 of the preamp tubes you need to switch to the 2.5 or 10 volt ranges.
As to the 70V at the fuse, is the green wire of the AC cord connected to the chassis? What is the AC measurement from the white to the black of the AC cord?