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Fixing Fender Mustang 2 v02 input jack -I made a mess.

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  • Fixing Fender Mustang 2 v02 input jack -I made a mess.

    Greetings, thanks for checking this.

    So, I got back with my old band -sorry, just some context- and got myself and old Fender Mustang 2 v02.
    http://cdn2.fender.com/support/manua...-A_English.pdf

    I soon found out that the guitar jack had to be angled/pushed in certain way when it was plugged, otherwise no sound. It was clear something wasn't connecting.

    Saw this video -pasting the relevant bit- where the same amp had an even worse problem (no sound at all).
    https://youtu.be/JerZn4d_PLI?si=mozBxd7j1dI2FomE&t=191

    Just as he does I went over a few of the connection-joints, please see my image 01. Although I didnīt use any wiring as he does.
    Q1: Do those look fixed to you?

    After that I made a foolish move -total idiot, not knowing what I'm doing- I decided to drop more tin in some random place, please see my image 02
    Q2: how to fix this? Shall I melt it first? I assume I need the two right connectors or pins -lack vocabulary, sorry- separated, as the two left ones.

    Current state: I plug my guitar and nothing happens. Amp turs on fine.

    Thanks in advance to anyone who stops by.

    Luke​
    Attached Files

  • #2
    You need to practice soldering. Clean off your new solder with desoldering braid and resolder.
    Click image for larger version

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    Support for Fender, Laney, Marshall, Mesa, VOX and many more. https://jonsnell.co.uk
    If you can't fix it, I probably can.

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    • #3
      Thanks a lot!

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      • #4
        And with a cleaned and wetted (with fresh film of solder), use the desolate braid to remove all the old solder blobs of the input jack terminal before applying fresh solder.
        Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence

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        • #5
          Just be careful and watch some videos. It’s a balance of providing the right amount of heat. Too little you get what you’re getting. Too much heat and you lift the pad and damage the trace. But when you lift solder with a braid the actual braid becomes a heat sink. If you have ground traces on a particular joint it can also heat sink and barely allow the solder to free up. This is something I have seen on Bose type circuit boards but it’s everywhere. Not sure if that is the case here on that ribbon connection that got bridged. You need more heat to really heat up the work then the solder will melt good. Add flux on cleaned up joints before soldering ensures that the solder flows towards the metal surface. It will help to not bridge tight connecting points.
          When the going gets weird... The weird turn pro!

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