Peavey Power Board

[chunkitup]

I need a power board for a butcher and PV does not have them anymore. Are there any current models that I could fit in this amp? How expensive would it be to have one made?

[Gtr_tech]

Whats wrong with the one thats in there? Or is it missing? There's not that much to it.....someone could hand make one.

[chunkitup]

yea the board is not there at all. If someone here could make me one I would be very appreciative. Or could I use the schematic that PV sent me to have a board etched for me.

[defaced]

The schematic on Schematic Heaven has the board layout. It'd take some a little bit of work to burn a board from it, but it's possible.

[olddawg]

The schematic on Schematic Heaven has the board layout. It'd take some a little bit of work to burn a board from it, but it's possible.

Why not just make one on a piece of perf board. Make the traces out of solid wire cut to length. If it isn't a double sided board and not too complicated that's what I would do.

[defaced]

That's what I'd do too, but from the verbiage of the original post, it sounds like he wants a board.

[chunkitup]

Well, I dont need the board. I was looking for an easy way but the perf board sounds like a good idea. I havent made my own pcb since 1987 in high school and I totally forget the process. I would actually like to try it again, but I dont even know where to start.

[tedmich]

just made a tube board for my Bravo (1991)


and since the butcher is older its a single layer PCB too.

a while with Photoshop, (or illustrator) and the laypot image copied from the acrobat (.pdf file) will give you a pcb template, test print it to get the scaling right (measure a fixed spacing component, pin header etc.)

Reverse image to give bottom copper when reversed (think about it!) print at highest quality to Epson inkjet paper on a decent laser printer (Brother/Samsung).

Clean copper board with muriatic acid, tap water, distilled water, then acetone and let dry or dry in 200F oven. Align printed template and fold over board and tape edges on bottom with painters tape. Place board on towel on sturdy surface, iron 15 min on highest temp slowly pressing and then moving, finish with tip of iron on outside traces. Pattern should show through and paper may brown up a little. Allow to cool, carefully remove tape and submerge in warm clean water. Test edges periodically and when loose, slowly work paper off leaving pattern. Lightly rub with BLUE scotchbrite under running water to remove paper traces. Dry in 200F oven and examine traces and fix if needed with Sharpie or nail polish. Mix 2 parts 3% H2O2 (drug store) + 1 part ~37% HCl (muriatic acid, hardware store) and submerge board in plastic (PP) pan with good ventilation and light, shaking gently with GLOVES and eye protection. Green color means Cu dissolving. Keep rocking until Cu is gone from back (no traces) ; longer doesn't usually hurt and close traces can short if all Cu not dissolved, can resoak if close inspection shows residual copper.

Wash with a ton of cold water, acetone, then lacquer thinner, which will remove toner with paper towel/BLUE scotchbrite rubbing. Examine traces closely and check continuity/discontinuity especially at close traces (can fix with sharpie/nail polish/wax and drops of etch sol.) Purchase mini carbide bit pack at Harbor Freight, $6 for 20, pick packs with 4+ large sizes (0.03" or larger). Use only decent drill press to drill holes, blow clean and solder up. Solder mask if desired with spray clear lacquer (Ace)

[defaced]

The PDF on schematic heaven doesn't have solid copper areas, and it does have the part outlines, so it's no good as is for making a board. You'd have to trace the copper areas and go from there.

If I were going to make a board from that file, I'd trace the board in an illustration program (inkscape is good and free (open source)), scale it, then follow tedmich's board making procedure.

If the board in the schematic is a "from the top" view, you don't need to flip the copper artwork when you print and transfer it. If it's a "from the bottom" view, then you do need to flip it.

[chunkitup]

Ok I am ready to try this. What is the best PCB drawing program out there? I am looking at DipTrace which is free. I would like to have a program that has autorouting.

[tedmich]

Ok I am ready to try this. What is the best PCB drawing program out there? I am looking at DipTrace which is free. I would like to have a program that has autorouting.

i like diptrace, its autorouting needs tweaking a bit, as do most . Some love Eagle (free too if you know where to look)

[olddawg]

Well, I dont need the board. I was looking for an easy way but the perf board sounds like a good idea. I havent made my own pcb since 1987 in high school and I totally forget the process. I would actually like to try it again, but I dont even know where to start.

Using perf boad is a quick, easy, and inexpensive solution. Unless you have time to burn and want to send a bunch more money, and make a mess, that's the route I would take. If you spray the perf flat black no one will notice even if they look inside the amp. However, if you want to learn how to layout and etch pcbs it is probably a good practice project. I guess it depends on what your goal, value, and time constraints are. With perf you could probably have the amp up and running in a couple of hours.

[Enzo]

Here, the traces are on the layouts in this file.