Multi-Cap question on unknown vintage amp.

[Resonator Guy]

I recently bought this beauty old suitcase amp on the bay. It was listed as not working, but it looked good and I got it for a good price. When I started taking it apart (no gut shots in the listing) I found something I had never seen before and I need some assistance.
The multi-cap says 2x15mf @ 350V , 2x10mf @ 25V , 30B14 A11. It is a INCCO new process cap. There is no other info on it. It has two red wires, one blue, one yellow and one black. Seems to be an extra wire.
The black goes to ground, one red (15mf?) to pin 4 of the 6F6, one red (15mf?) to a large pin on the 80 rectifier, the brown to pin 1 of 6SJ7, blue to pin 3 of 6SJ7, yellow to pin 8 of the 6F6.
Can anyone tell me what the extra wire is for? And, would the reds be 15mf? Which would be the 10mfs?

I have just started recapping and any assistance would be appreciated. I have tried to explain it above in case the pics don't post. I have been having troubles there lately.

The gut shot wouldn't load. I will try it later if anyone needs it.
I will undoubtedly have more questions on this later. I think it is a Sears Roebuck Supertone, but we never had those in Canada.

[52 Bill]

Have you tried moving the clamp band on the cap? Often there is more printing hidden under there.

[Resonator Guy]

Bill I clipped the band off, just in case. Absolutely nothing else there. I am wondering if the 30B14, which is directly under the other mf values and the A11, which is directly under the voltages means something. The cap has a "new process" after all. Your best guess would probably help.
The gut shot loaded this time, and that is brown paint, not rust coating the chassis.

[52 Bill]

Pin 1 of the 6SJ7 is either the shield or a NC. It looks like there is wire that connects it to the input ground. If that is the case, then I would imagine that the brown is the common for the two low voltage caps and the black is the common for the the two high voltage caps. If you have a cap meter, you could try and test this theory.

The two low voltage caps, I assume are being used as cathode bypass caps in the preamp and the two high voltage for the dc supply.

[Resonator Guy]

That input ground wire is indeed there Bill. Now that would make the two red wires for the two high voltage caps and the blue and yellow for the lower voltage caps? The lower voltage caps would then be the cathode bypass caps for the 6SJ7 and the 6F6? I don't have a cap meter to test the idea but it sounds pretty good. It would be nice if they had labelled the cap like most folks did. I don't imagine I will blow too much stuff up when I try that. Thanks a bunch.

[52 Bill]

...that would make the two red wires for the two high voltage caps and the blue and yellow for the lower voltage caps? The lower voltage caps would then be the cathode bypass caps for the 6SJ7 and the 6F6? I don't have a cap meter to test the idea but it sounds pretty good.

Yes, the two red wires go to the rectifier tube (80) and to the screen grid of the output tube (6F6) and the two low voltage caps go to pin 8 of the 6F6 which is the cathode and to pin 5 and 3 of the 6SJ7 which is the cathode and the grid 3 connection.

You can test the theory with an ohmmeter, just see if there is any continuity from black to brown. Then test from red to black and blue to brown, etc.

[Resonator Guy]

Bill, that seems to have worked a treat. I had caps on hand although I had to use 22mf for the bypass caps. I can change them later if need be. Also I put a new three prong cord on it. The on/off/volume is frozen so I need to change that. I jumpered the on/off and plugged it into a current limiter and the tubes lit up nicely with no shorts. Once I change the volume I will be able to see if it makes any noise, and I bet it will. I am going to make another post in vintage amps to see if I can find out what make it is. Thanks again for your good instructions.