It seems every time I try to fix one thing, some other shit happens. So much of this all began with the original tube sockets I bought from Partsconnexion. First, I had to replace the PI socket. Replacing a tube socket, while keeping all existing heater/terminal wiring and components is problematic. The the socket pin tension on the output tubes was failing and those needed to be replaced. This was just to get it back up running to test it for ohter things. So, I plugged it back in with the output tubes pulled to set the driver cathode voltages (which are the output tube grid bias voltages), and one of the triode sections in the 12AU7 is biased in cuttoff at -30V, while the other section is operating to its design at -4V. At first I though it was maybe the tube, but I tried three different 12AU7s! Hold on a sec, I'll show you on a schematic so it makes a little more sense...
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I feel like the wheels are coming off this build. Now 1 side of Tube voltages way low
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Here are some voltages:
It's weird, looking at these voltages on paper like this, it seems like half of the driver and PI aren't conducting..?
did I F- up my heater wiring? could that cause this type of behavior? If I remembered correctly and assigned the voltage readings to the correct plate, then it leads me to think something with the heaters because I wired them out of phase. But I've never seen this before.
What do you thinks going on?
Dude, I'm thinking of riping out the whole back end of this amp (in the red border) and starting from scratch. Heaters and all.
If I have a 50% chance of guessing the right answer, I guess wrong 80% of the time.
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It seems to be conducting, the voltages across the 18K resistors imply one side of triode is approx. 5mA and the other half 7mA, not a huge difference.
Try another tube in there and see if the differences remain similar.
Edit: sorry I see you tried that.
All resistances and connections in grid and cathode circuits check out?Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Hail, OCD-man! Wow, what awesome lead dress you have, there. I want to see more photos!
Those big black boxes are filter caps?
And what about those blue-handled tools at left in photo?
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Don't mind me, man. I looked up your other threads about this amp, and found lots of good photos. Your graphic design chops are great as well. Cheers!
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Originally posted by g1 View PostIt seems to be conducting, the voltages across the 18K resistors imply one side of triode is approx. 5mA and the other half 7mA, not a huge difference.
Try another tube in there and see if the differences remain similar.
Edit: sorry I see you tried that.
All resistances and connections in grid and cathode circuits check out?If I have a 50% chance of guessing the right answer, I guess wrong 80% of the time.
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So how does adjusting those 500R bias pots affect each side? If the offending side makes no change, then you're probably right about it not conducting. You have three resistors and trimmer there to look at. I have faith. Don't tear it apart just yet.If it still won't get loud enough, it's probably broken. - Steve Conner
If the thing works, stop fixing it. - Enzo
We need more chaos in music, in art... I'm here to make it. - Justin Thomas
MANY things in human experience can be easily differentiated, yet *impossible* to express as a measurement. - Juan Fahey
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Originally posted by eschertron View PostSo how does adjusting those 500R bias pots affect each side? If the offending side makes no change, then you're probably right about it not conducting. You have three resistors and trimmer there to look at. I have faith. Don't tear it apart just yet.If I have a 50% chance of guessing the right answer, I guess wrong 80% of the time.
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Originally posted by The Dude View PostIf you remove the output tubes, what happens to the voltages?
But, I wanted to update the schematic voltages. These are actual voltage readings, much better to follow, and help isolate the problem. Check it out:
if you look at the grid curves, the tube is doing exactly what it should. The problem is that the resistance between the grid and cathode (as it is cathode biased) is higher that I'm reading and higher that what it is designed for.
Also, in the image above, when I say "should be the grid -3.4V in reference to the grid/cathode bias voltage, I mean that's what I should actually be reading according to other measurements (as you can see). Ideally, the grid/cathode bias voltage should be around -2.4/2.5V (as shown below).
If I have a 50% chance of guessing the right answer, I guess wrong 80% of the time.
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Can you verify that 7.8V between cathode and grid, one probe of meter at cathode and one on grid.
Depending on the setting of the trimmer, you have somewhere in the 5 to 10mA range of current. That seems fairly high for 7.8V bias.
Also, can you include voltages at same points for other half of tube?Originally posted by EnzoI have a sign in my shop that says, "Never think up reasons not to check something."
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Originally posted by xtian View Postwhat awesome lead dress you have, there. I want to see more photos!
And what about those blue-handled tools at left in photo?
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