Originally posted by Helmholtz
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Can’t Stop the Hum!!
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Originally posted by words453 View PostGrounding at that junction kills the hum with boost engaged but the hum is present with the boost disengaged. FYI, I have lifted that connection as well and the hum is still there.
EDIT: Thinking it over I realized that with the boost engaged you are effectively grounding the reverb tank input circuit. But not so with the boost disengaged. Further, if the hum is mitigated by grounding that junction at the 1k/470k resistors then the problem isn't with V4B because there is a 470k isolation from the V4B grid at that node and only a 1k load forming a 470:1 voltage division.
I think you're definitely looking for a miswire or a ground fault for the reverb tank input circuit (that includes the boost circuit).Last edited by Chuck H; 04-26-2020, 07:09 PM."Take two placebos, works twice as well." Enzo
"Now get off my lawn with your silicooties and boom-chucka speakers and computers masquerading as amplifiers" Justin Thomas
"If you're not interested in opinions and the experience of others, why even start a thread?
You can't just expect consent." Helmholtz
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Originally posted by words453 View PostBTW, thanks to everyone for the help. This thing has me running in circles!
nosajsoldering stuff that's broken, breaking stuff that works, Yeah!
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Originally posted by words453 View PostBTW, thanks to everyone for the help. This thing has me running in circles!
I'll resume digging thru my service notes to try and find that one repair that had these issues.Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence
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Originally posted by words453 View PostMain filter 465.5 vdc
3.24vac
Screen cap 455.7 vdc
3.19vac
PI cap. 431,2 vdc
0.069vac
Preamp cap 374.7 vdc
0.012vac
In my service notes on one of the SF Twins I had worked on in 2015, this same supply feed also feeds the primary of the Reverb Tank Drive xfmr. I had constant hum in the reverb circuit of that amp, and adding a 47uF/450V filter cap there eliminated the hum. Which suggested the 20uF/500V Filter cap in the doghouse below the chassis was faulty. It could be that filter cap in your amp, if not the inductor.Logic is an organized way of going wrong with confidence
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Nevetslab, I have disconnected the boost circuit but not the MV circuit. So I will give that a shot. It could be the choke. I need to order one for a build, so I’ll try that out. I guess I’ll replace the filter caps, just to cover all my bases.
Good article, Nosaj, but I don’t have a scope unfortunately.
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If you think it might be the choke, just disconnect it and clip in a big old resistor, say 400 ohms. Well 390. Nothing special about the value, 250 or 500 ohms. SOmething, just needs to be a power resistor. We don't care for this test if the voltages downstream are slightly altered, but we do want to listen and see if the hum changed. That might be quicker than waiting for an order. Plus if it does make the difference, you know you need two chokes instead of just one.Education is what you're left with after you have forgotten what you have learned.
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Originally posted by nevetslab View PostI've run into this same problem on the Silver Face Twin Reverb amps. I've gone thru my service notes on the two we have in CenterStaging's inventory, but didn't find the problem on them, so it was on one of my other client's repairs. That problem, from what I recall, was from a damaged Master Volume Pot, along with connections in the Reverb circuit. The amp has the shielded cable running from the tag board all the way down to the master volume pot, then back again to the input of the phase inverter circuit. You could try unhooking that cable at the send and return ends, and connecting those two points together, taking the pot out of circuit. And doing likewise with the boost circuit that the pull switch engages, to see if the control and it's wiring is causing this hum problem.
I'll resume digging thru my service notes to try and find that one repair that had these issues.
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Originally posted by Enzo View PostIf you think it might be the choke, just disconnect it and clip in a big old resistor, say 400 ohms. Well 390. Nothing special about the value, 250 or 500 ohms. SOmething, just needs to be a power resistor. We don't care for this test if the voltages downstream are slightly altered, but we do want to listen and see if the hum changed. That might be quicker than waiting for an order. Plus if it does make the difference, you know you need two chokes instead of just one.
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Originally posted by Enzo View PostOK, so the resistor worked better than the choke. SOunds like a choke.
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