Originally posted by g1
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Laney TT50H No Outout
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThat's all good now and ready to test. I don't know your level of experience as far as amp usage, so I will say that 'presence' control is not as obvious as other tone controls. It just puts some sparkle or brightness into the upper midrange frequencies. Probably most noticeable with overdriven tones which are rich in harmonics.
If presence works backwards, or there is loud squeal right when you turn it on, you will need to swap the green and blue wires at the lugs marked 'grids'.
Swapped grid wires, oscillation on channel 2 & channel 3 but if either boost or xpand are engaged , oscillation stops, but low distorted output seems the same
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That's all good now and ready to test. I don't know your level of experience as far as amp usage, so I will say that 'presence' control is not as obvious as other tone controls. It just puts some sparkle or brightness into the upper midrange frequencies. Probably most noticeable with overdriven tones which are rich in harmonics.
If presence works backwards, or there is loud squeal right when you turn it on, you will need to swap the green and blue wires at the lugs marked 'grids'.
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Originally posted by g1 View PostI guess you mean you restored the jumper and it now measures 0 ohms between the solder joints it connects to?
Those other values are for resistors on the preamp board. These ones are on the main board, pg.10 of the service manual pdf (lower left area of schematic).
Now with R44 re-installed, check resistance again at the R45 solder joints.
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Originally posted by g1 View PostI guess you mean you restored the jumper and it now measures 0 ohms between the solder joints it connects to?
Those other values are for resistors on the preamp board. These ones are on the main board, pg.10 of the service manual pdf (lower left area of schematic).
Now with R44 re-installed, check resistance again at the R45 solder joints.
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Originally posted by g1 View PostI guess you mean you restored the jumper and it now measures 0 ohms between the solder joints it connects to?
Those other values are for resistors on the preamp board. These ones are on the main board, pg.10 of the service manual pdf (lower left area of schematic).
Now with R44 re-installed, check resistance again at the R45 solder joints.
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View PostTrace repair jumper solder joints(0.0 ohms)
Originally posted by ca7922303 View PostReinstalled R44(4.5k ohms) schematic shows(22k)
R34(10k ohms) schematic shows (100k)
Now with R44 re-installed, check resistance again at the R45 solder joints.
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Originally posted by g1 View Post
It looks like the leg of R45 is coming through from the other side, which it should. The 2 yellow arrows below show the 2 ends of R45 (mounted on the component side of board). You should measure around 100K between the 2 yellow arrows. If not you will need to replace R45.
If it measures good, re-install the jumper and measure between the pads of R44 (with R44 still removed). That should also measure around 100K when jumper installed.
Will be back tomorrow.
R34(10k ohms) schematic shows (100k)
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Originally posted by g1 View Post
It looks like the leg of R45 is coming through from the other side, which it should. The 2 yellow arrows below show the 2 ends of R45 (mounted on the component side of board). You should measure around 100K between the 2 yellow arrows. If not you will need to replace R45.
If it measures good, re-install the jumper and measure between the pads of R44 (with R44 still removed). That should also measure around 100K when jumper installed.
Will be back tomorrow.
R44 pads(99.6k ohms)
Trace repair jumper solder joints(0.0 ohms)
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
Trace jumper removed
If it measures good, re-install the jumper and measure between the pads of R44 (with R44 still removed). That should also measure around 100K when jumper installed.
Will be back tomorrow.
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
Be off work shortly, can probably remove some of the solder and get correct reading.
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