Originally posted by g1
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Laney TT50H No Outout
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThat seems kind of high at R43. Caps at either end of it show 400V rating, so be careful. Suggest using variac and not exceeding 400V there. What is the voltage at it's other end? Are all preamp tubes lit up?
What is the DC voltage at either end of the resistor going to the hum pot, R52 ?
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThat seems kind of high at R43. Caps at either end of it show 400V rating, so be careful. Suggest using variac and not exceeding 400V there. What is the voltage at it's other end? Are all preamp tubes lit up?
What is the DC voltage at either end of the resistor going to the hum pot, R52 ?
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That seems kind of high at R43. Caps at either end of it show 400V rating, so be careful. Suggest using variac and not exceeding 400V there. What is the voltage at it's other end? Are all preamp tubes lit up?
What is the DC voltage at either end of the resistor going to the hum pot, R52 ?
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThat's on the variac? Sounds good so far. If going up with the variac and the reading on the hum balance pot stays in the mV rather than volts, you should be ok I think.
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThat's on the variac? Sounds good so far. If going up with the variac and the reading on the hum balance pot stays in the mV rather than volts, you should be ok I think.
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Originally posted by g1 View PostThat's on the variac? Sounds good so far. If going up with the variac and the reading on the hum balance pot stays in the mV rather than volts, you should be ok I think.
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That's on the variac? Sounds good so far. If going up with the variac and the reading on the hum balance pot stays in the mV rather than volts, you should be ok I think.
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Originally posted by g1 View Post
Does the socket go as far down to the board as it should? I thought it might be flush mount so I was worried the jumper would keep it from going all the way down to the board.
Then the pins might not go as far through the board as needed, and the solder joints would be more likely to break whenever the tube was inserted.
If the socket goes down as close to the board is it was without the jumper wire, you should be ok like that.
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Originally posted by g1 View Post
Does the socket go as far down to the board as it should? I thought it might be flush mount so I was worried the jumper would keep it from going all the way down to the board.
Then the pins might not go as far through the board as needed, and the solder joints would be more likely to break whenever the tube was inserted.
If the socket goes down as close to the board is it was without the jumper wire, you should be ok like that.
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Originally posted by ca7922303 View Post
Any reason why this wouldn't work?
Then the pins might not go as far through the board as needed, and the solder joints would be more likely to break whenever the tube was inserted.
If the socket goes down as close to the board is it was without the jumper wire, you should be ok like that.
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Originally posted by g1 View PostI think that would be the best bet, it's too long of a run to the next socket. A small hole drilled next to the trace just outside the socket with the burn, a short piece of wire from the trace to the solder side pin4 connection.
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Originally posted by Enzo View Postin general, I have a few tiny drills, like #56 and #62, and a small hole in the pc board for the wire end, placed next to the trace, and solder it to it.
Last edited by g1; 11-22-2021, 08:07 PM.
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One end could be tacked to the socket leg. Of course just doing what you said earlier, run the wire around the socket also works. Meanwhile, other side. One end to socket leg, other end to something else connected to that trace. Perhaps another socket. But in general, I have a few tiny drills, like #56 and #62, and a small hole in the pc board for the wire end, placed next to the trace, and solder it to it.
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